It has been a horrible year for Israelis and Jews worldwide. Demons that we thought were at bay have come out of the woodwork to ruin the horizon. The loss and pain have been so great in the House of Israel, that it is difficult to carry on as normal. However, some days demand a spirit of togetherness which creates a sense of enjoying the moment and looking forward.
Yom Ha’atzmaut is such a day. We will celebrate it this year, not forgetting anything, but old habits die hard. We are talking about Israel Independence Day and this year we will be marking Israel’s 76th birthday. This has been a difficult year not only for Israelis and but also for those who support Israel. But it is a moment to look back with pride. It is nothing short of astonishing what this country has achieved in 76 years. The extent of our contribution to the world is unknown, even to many who support us. Sufficient to say Israeli inventions have permeated every part of daily life. Put these contributions against those who are anti-Israel and there is no competition. Medicine, computers, telephones and agriculture have all benefited from the Start-Up Nation. Those who want to boycott and ban anything Israeli would have to live in a cave. Lately the incredible advances have reached world of gastronomy. The creativity of the Israeli Chef is a phenomenon which has electrified America and the capitals of Europe. Their innovative interpretation of a new Israeli-Levantine-Mediterranean fusion cuisine, is another manifestation of the Israel success story. The blooming of Israeli wine is both part of the same equation. A tiny country that continues to create, innovate and surprise which has an effect way beyond its size.
As a country, celebrations will be slightly muted this year. Many families are not complete, and grief and bad memories will be prominent. There will be gaping holes in too many families and those absentees will cast a dark shadow. However nonetheless, Israelis will mark this usually happy day in a way that is not only a tradition, but also a comforting habit and a meeting place. This will be by having a barbeque. It is a national necessity. Not for nothing is this day known as “National Barbeque Day.” Israelis will congregate; families and friends will meet, drink, eat and schmooze together.
However, this will not be a barbeque of hot dogs, burgers and sweet corn like on July 4th in America. In Israel the pita bread or laffa (a large thin flatbread originating from Iraq) will replace the bun. Steaks, skewered meat, kebabs, chicken, liver – in fact any meat along with any vegetables, will have the star role. Exotic spices known in the Middle East, Eastern Mediterranean and Levant, will be used. Amongst them: cumin, paprika, turmeric, sumac and za’ater. Hummus, tehina and harissa (a hot chilli pepper paste from Morocco) will replace ketchup and mustard. And the finely cut Israeli or Arabic salad, seasoned with olive oil and lemon juice, will replace coleslaw. The Israeli barbeque is a thoroughly Israeli experience; The essence of Israel, if you like.
The Israeli slang for the barbeque is “Mangal” or “Al Ha’Esh.” The mangal is from the Bedouin word ‘portable.’ In 19th century Israel it was a copper vessel filled with charcoal that was moved from room to room for heating. It was also used for cooking or warming food. Al Ha’Esh means literally ‘on the fire.’
A barbeque can be as simple as a very small, basic unsophisticated rectangular metal container on short legs, with a metal grill on top of it, or alternatively one of these new-fangled large gas barbeques that look as though you would need a pilot license to understand it, – and everything in between. Those living in apartment blocks are smoked out, as balconies all over the building start cooking. Windows will be firmly closed beforehand. Parks will be full of people spreading out with blankets, portable tables, each with its own noise and loud music, as if competing with the next family. Cooking space is at a premium. I have even seen a large family using a busy, noisy roundabout as a cooking area!
However, it is mainly a gathering of families, friends and clans, who may meet this way every year. It is a time for the men to talk politics and football. They tend to congregate around the barbeque on the pretense that they have to act as chefs and taste the food as it grills. Every so often they will busily fan the flames with anything from a flap of a cardboard box, to one of the special plastic nafnafim, sold pre BBQ day. It is a man sport. The women will talk together more quietly amongst themselves and laugh at the men. And the children will play wildly, asking every five minutes when the food is ready.
Of course, alcohol plays a part. The most usual accompaniment to the day is beer. This year choose an Israeli brewery to accompany your festivities. Jems and Alexander are two of our finest craft breweries, each with a wide range beer styles. Alexander have prepared a special gift pack of two Blonde and two Wheat Beers, with a glass. These two beers will more than quench your thirst; they will refresh and reach parts other beers don’t reach. They call themselves “the best Israeli brewery in the world.” Good slogan (credit Carlsberg for the idea!) As a Brit, I am more partial to ales and I always prefer IPA. The Jems IPA is excellent with a satisfying bitterness. Failing that, give me a Guinness any time and I am content.
Alternatively, you can drink wine. Most families will cater for both. The beautiful thing for the wine drinker is the informality. The connoisseurs will use stemless glasses. The drinkers will use anything: tumblers, plastic wine glasses or disposable glasses. This is one occasion that no wine expert will look at you with disapproval. Everything and anything goes – and all is acceptable.
Light, fresh fruity reds or crisp, fragrant roses are the best BBQ wines. Barkan Gold Cabernet or Merlot; Golan Heights Winery’s Mount Hermon Red and Zion Winery Shiraz are flavorful reds; and Carmel Private Collection Rose, Mount Hermon Rose, either of Zion Winery’s roses are perfect for the task in hand. These wines are ideal in price and style. They are wines to drink and not taste. No discussions of points, gold medals, forest fruits and astringency will be necessary. They are not too serious, fun, approachable easy drinking wines. Galil Mountain with their ‘Bar’ label, Dalton Knan and both the Jasmin & Jonathan labels from Recanati are some of the best quality options in the under NIS 50 category, also offering refreshing whites.
Yom Ha’atzmaut is a time to eat, drink and be merry….so be sure to eat well, drink well and for a moment, put your troubles aside!
Adam Montefiore is a winery insider turned wine writer, who has advanced Israeli wine for 35 years. He is referred to as ‘the English voice of Israeli wine’ and is the Wine Writer of the Jerusalem Post. www.adammontefiore.com
