Author: Michal Bauch

History

Israel has no indigenous wine grape varieties, which is surprising because there is a local olive oil variety and table grape variety and there a numerous local varieties in nearby Cyprus. However it appears that when the Holy Land was under the jurisdiction of the Muslims, with first Mameluk rule and then the Ottomans, the growing of wine grapes and the making of wine was actively discouraged. Many of the indigenous varieties disappeared.

Yet the names of grapes used to make wine in the mid 19th century are known. They included varieties such as Hevroni, Dabouki, Marawi, Halbani, Sharwishi, Hamdani, Jandali amongst the whites and Zeitani, Karkashani, Razaki, Karashi, Baladi amongst the reds. Most were grown in the Bethlehem or Hebron areas primarily by Arabs and the names reflect their Arab origins. These varieties were sold to the few Jewish wineries, in particularly in the Old City of Jerusalem. However they are not used by mainstream wineries, apart from the Cremisan Monastery, which still uses them.

In 1870 the Mikveh Israel Agricultural School was set up under French management. They were the first to use European varieties in their own Mikveh Israel Winery, but also supplied cuttings for the first commercial vineyards in the country planted in the years 1882 to 1887. The main varieties were: Alicante, Carignan, Bourdales (aka Cinsault), Braquet (aka Brachetto), Esparte (aka Mourvedre) and Petit Bouschet. They wisely chose Mediterranean varieties considering the climate in what was then called Palestine.

Cuttings from Chateau Lafite

On his first visit to Palestine in 1887, Baron Edmond de Rothschild decided he wanted to make a serious Palestine wine. He made the decision to concentrate on Bordeaux varieties. His administrators in Palestine were against the idea, but his vision was supported by Professor Gayon from Bordeaux and Charles Mortier, the manager and winemaker of Chateau Lafite. This was why Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Malbec came to be planted in the late 1880’s from cuttings supplied by Chateau Lafite.

However because of the threat of phylloxera, which was already devastating French vineyards, the vines were imported via Kashmir in India. However this precaution did not prevent the vines from succumbing to phylloxera and in the 1890’s they had to be replanted on American rootstock.

Eventually Rothschild’s vision for quality was put on hold as there was not then a market for a quality Palestine wine and the Israeli market became focused on the more inexpensive, value side of the market. This really meant cheap bulk wines and sweet sacramental wines. So the quality Bordeaux varieties were replaced mainly by

Carignan and Grenache, which dominated Israeli winemaking for most of the 20th century. The main white wine grape was Semillon, with varieties like Clairette and Ugni Blanc in a supporting role. The grape for sweet wines was Muscat of Alexandria.

In the early 1970’s the first varietal wines were exported by Carmel. The wines were called Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc, which were dry and Grenache Rose and Semillon, which were semi dry. In the 1980’s the Golan Heights Winery began an ambitious planting program which involved bringing many of the international noble varieties to Israel. The most planted varieties in Israel were Carignan for red grapes and Colombard for whites. At the same time Carignan was the most planted red variety in France and Colombard the leading white variety in California.

Though Carmel re-introduced Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc to Israel, the pioneering Golan Heights Winery were the first to launch, or re-launch the following varieties: Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, Sangiovese, Gamay, Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer, White Riesling and Muscat Canelli.

Red Wines

The three most heavily planted varieties are in Israel today are Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan and Merlot followed by Shiraz, Argaman and Petite Sirah. Most of the best red wines are either Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot or Shiraz varietals or Bordeaux blends based primarily on Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

Argaman

Argaman comprises 4% of the varieties in Israel. It is exclusively used for inexpensive blends. Its chief claim to fame is that it is an Israeli variety, even if a modern one. It was created in the early 1990’s as an intended replacement for Carignan. It is a cross between Carignan and the Portuguese grape Souzao, and its main benefit is it does provide good color. However, apart from this, it is undistinguished and not a great success. It is mainly grown in the central coastal and Judean Plain.

Barbera

Widely grown in Italy and at its best in Piedmont, Barbera has become a fashionable ‘new’ variety in Israel. Though there is very little Barbera in Israel, what there is has been used to make Barbera wines. As to quality, the jury is still out.

Cabernet Franc

Cabernet Franc was originally planted by Baron Edmond de Rothschild in the late 1880’s. In those days it was preferred to Cabernet Sauvignon and requests were made to plant more Cabernet Franc than its more illustrious relation. However unlike its near namesake, it never took hold or created any interest until the last ten years or so. Cabernet Franc is used by some wineries as part of a Bordeaux blend and by others as an interesting, slightly exotic varietal. Recently a few wineries have chosen to specialize in it, seeing it as a variety with a future in Israel. It can grow successfully in drier conditions than Cabernet Sauvignon and ripens ealier. The results though are totally different to the cooler Loire Valley, but that is not to say the wines don’t provide a good alternative to the all conquering Cabernet Sauvignon. As a blending component, it adds complexity and still hold on to its characteristic herbaceousness in the hotter climate.

Cabernet Sauvignon

The king of vines in so many countries, it is the same in Israel. It was first planted by Rothschild in the late 1880’s, but never became dominant until use of varietal labeling came into vogue in the early 1970’s. Today the finest Israeli wines tend to be Cabernet Sauvignon varietals or Bordeaux blends.

There are more hectares of Cabernet Sauvignon planted than any other variety in Israel, which translates to about 21% of the total tonnage at harvest.

The best Cabernet Sauvignon is grown in areas with an altitude of 600 meters above sea level. The Upper Galilee and central to northern Golan Heights are arguably the best region for this most noble of noble varieties. The depth of colour, concentration of ripe fruit and tannic structure make this the most successful variety. The danger in Israel’s Mediterranean climate is that the wines do not become too jammy.

However the variety appears most successful as part of a Bordeaux style blend, usually blended with Merlot.

Carignan

Israel’s wine industry was built on the back of Carignan which was appropriate because it is a Mediterranean variety and high yields are possible. Less than 20 years ago, Carignan represented 40% of the grapes planted in Israel. Today with all the new plantings of quality varieties, the percentage of Carignan has dropped to 15% as Israel has focused more on making wines of quality. The variety is mainly used in the production of inexpensive supermarket blends, sweet sacramental wine and even grape juice.

However a few enterprising wineries have, by drastically reducing yields, and selecting older vineyards, managed to make old vine wines of character and distinction.

The traditional region for Carignan is the southern part of Mount Carmel, which overlooks the Mediterranean. The best quality old vine Carignan comes from the small enclosed valleys of Meir Shefaya, just north east of Zichron Ya’acov. The wines show aromas of cherries and raspberries, with a backdrop of Mediterranean herbs.

As its use in Israel spans the history of the modern Israel wine industry and its uses have turned out to be so versatile, the simple Carignan grape may turn out to be the variety associated more than any other with Israel.

Merlot

Merlot was introduced to Israel in the 1980’s. It tends to grow well throughout the country, but never reaches the quality of the best Cabernet Sauvignons. Merlot in Israel is harvested relatively early because it ripens easily. Yields are good and its soft, mild character make it the perfect partner for Cabernet Sauvignons. Most wineries produce a varietal Merlot, which is normally bolstered by 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, but it plays a more significant role in the so called Bordeaux blends.

A great deal of Merlot was planted in the 1990’s and it now represents a 14% of the total.

Petite Sirah

Petite Sirah (sometimes spelt Petite Syrah) came to Israel in the 1970’s and was primarily used in cheap blends. It is a cross between the Syrah and obscure variety Peloursan, and is known as Durif in France. However there is nothing petite about the wines. It is an underrated grape producing powerful, almost black colored wines and is more tannic than Cabernet Sauvignon. Recently the variety has been used to good effect by using old vine vineyards up to 40 years old to produce blockbuster wines. Petite Sirah grows best in the Judean Foothills. It appears that like in California and Australia, this variety has found a niche in Israel for those looking for something other than Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. It is a variety that has a small but loyal following.

Petit Verdot

Petit Verdot is a grape sparingly used in Bordeaux, where it has difficulty ripening in some years. However there are no such problems in Israel, where its structure and color are making it an important part of the premium blends of some major wineries. It appears to do well in a wide variety of places in Israel, whether in the coastal regions, the Judean Hills or Upper Galilee. Whilst appreciating its usefulness as a blender, most winemakers have so far proved reluctant to produce it as a single varietal feeling it lacks the depth to stand on its own. Interestingly though, it has replaced Merlot as the second most dominant variety after Cabernet, in some of the country’s finest Bordeaux blends.

Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir first came to Israel with the Latroun Monastery. The wines were very light, but definitely with a Pinot Noir nose. In the early 1990’s it was planted more for commercial use and was mainly used in sparkling wine. However it is a grape too fickle for the hot, humid Israeli climate and without doubt is not suited to Israel. The northern Golan Heights, up to 1,200 meters above sea level, is the best region for this variety.

Sangiovese

Sangiovese was introduced to Israel on the Golan Heights. This famous Tuscan variety rarely performs well outside Italy and even in Italy sometimes gives variable results. So it is not a surprise that it is not a great success in Israel. Most is planted on the Golan. The majority is used in lesser expensive blends.

Shiraz/ Syrah

Shiraz is a fairly recent new immigrant having come to Israel in the late 1990’s. Wines produced from the French clone tend to be called Syrah and from the Australian clone, Shiraz. Whatever its origin, Shiraz is the more commonly used name in Israel. Though now with only just over a 8% share, it is still a minor player. However it is widely regarded as a grape for the future being ideal for the Israeli climate. The best regions for this variety are the Judean Foothills, Judean Hills and Upper Galilee. In fact it shows good results everywhere. As many of the vineyards are quite young, the Shiraz character is becoming more pronounced as the vines become older. This could challenge the Cabernet Sauvignon as Israel’s finest grape variety in the future.

There are other varieties being planted, trialed or released by individual wineries. These include Malbec, which is returning after 100 years, Tempranillo, and Pinotage, which Barkan have won prizes for. Most eagerly awaited are Mediterranean varieties such as Mourvedre and the return of virus free and a better clone of Grenache. There is even Zinfandel in Israel. Much goes into White Zinfandel Blush wine. However it rots easily, often before ripening, but two wineries in particular have persevered to produce Zinfandel wines.

White Grapes.

The main white varieties for the finest white wines are Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. There are also White Rieslings, Gewurztraminers and Viogniers. The main varieties in numbers of hectares are Colombard and Emerald Riesling followed by Muscat of Alexandria, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay.

Chardonnay

Chardonnay was first launched in Israel in 1987. Since then is well regarded as being the variety for the finest white wines in Israel.

The finest region for Chardonnay was always considered to be the northern Golan Heights, but some of the finest Chardonnays are now being produced in the rolling hills between the Judean Foothills and the Judean Hills. Without doubt the oaky, high alcohol, ‘peaches and cream’ Chardonnays are proving less fashionable. The part use of stainless steel to reduce the influence of oak in order to preserve green apple aromas and produce better food wines, is the new ‘in’style.

Colombard

French Colombard came to Israel in the 1970’s. Since then it has become Israel’s most heavily planted white variety, though at 5% of the total, it is far less than it was. The variety is grown at its best in the southern Mount Carmel around Zichron Ya’acov. It produces aromatic wines with excellent acidity, but is usually used in inexpensive, fresh fruity white wine blends.

Emerald Riesling

Emerald Riesling arrived in Israel in the late 1970’s. In the 1980’s and 90’s, it became by far Israel’s largest selling wine. Many new wine lovers were seduced by the very flowery, aromatic nose and spicy finish of these semi dry, sometimes medium, wines. The Emerald Riesling performed the same job that Liebfraumilch did in the United Kingdom and Lambrusco did in America. Those heady days have passed, but Emerald Riesling is still has its place.

Emerald Riesling was the result of an attempt by the University of California at Davis to produce good yields from a Riesling in a hot climate. It was a cross between the German Riesling and Muscadelle and was created in 1948, ironically the year of the foundation of the State of Israel. In the end it did not take off anywhere – apart from Israel.

Gewurztraminer

Gewurztraminer was planted on the Golan Heights by the Golan Heights Winery. It certainly needs the colder climate of the northern Golan to reach the optimum Gewurztraminer nose. It provided a welcome newcomer for those looking for higher quality semi dry white wines. However though good international wines they will never be a match for cooler climate Gewurztraminers from Alsace or New Zealand. By far the most successful Israeli use for the Gewurztraminer grape is in the production of luscious dessert wines. Some examples are genuine world class wines, which win a host of awards.

Muscat of Alexandria

An indigenous grape of the Eastern Mediterranean is the Muscat of Alexandria. It is part of the large Muscat family. This is a big berried grape also used elsewhere to make raisins and table grapes. In Israel it makes a sweet, aromatic, grapey dessert wine. The best area for the Muscat is the central coastal Judean Plain.

Sauvignon Blanc

There has been a revolution in Sauvignon Blancs in the last few years. It was a variety Israelis did not master until recently. That is not to say Sancerre and New Zealand will be quaking in their boots. Israel will never achieve the grassiness of a Sancerre or the concentration of tropical flavors of a New Zealand Sauvignon. However by planting at higher altitudes, harvesting early and using cold fermentation in stainless steel, the best represent good international standard wines in a fresh, crisp style. They certainly represent better food wines than many Israeli Chardonnays and are suitable to the Israeli climate.

Viognier

Considering there is so little Viognier planted, there are a surprising number of Viogniers on the market. They appear to produce good wines in the Mediterranean climate with the attractive apricot, pear aroma associated with the variety. There is a variety in the production styles. Some are dry, others semi dry and some are oak aged and others are fermented and stored only in stainless steel tanks.

White Riesling

This variety is often known as Johannisberg Riesling within Israel and White Riesling in export markets. It makes a welcome change to the more rustic Emerald Riesling. It is grown at its best in the northern Golan Heights or Upper Galilee.

The finest Rieslings in Israel are usually made in an ‘off dry’style, hovering between dry and semi dry.

Other whites in Israel include the Semillon and Chenin Blanc. Both have been a long time in Israel but resulting wines in the past were poor and they are not planted in the most advantageous regions. So they have become unfashionable. Muscat Canelli (aka Muscat de Frontignan) has also arrived and produces dessert wines with a more delicate aroma than the Muscat of Alexandria, but as yet is only sparsely planted. Most interesting is the experimental plantings of those Mediterranean varieties Marsanne and Roussanne.

Adam Montefiore works for Carmel Winery and regularly writes about wine in both Israeli and international publications.

The ‘K’ word is problematic for Israeli wineries producing wines of international standard, that just also happen to be kosher. Many wine consumers are quick to assume the word ‘kosher’ is a derogatory statement of quality. However the results of tastings and competitions have proved a point. Kosher wines can be world class, receive good scores and win international awards. Mark Squires, a specialist on Israeli wines, wrote in the Wine Advocate: “No one should avoid wines simply because of Kosher certifications.” He went on to say that being kosher was generally irrelevant to the judgment whether a wine was good or not.

Not all wines produced in Israel are automatically kosher. In fact there are more wineries producing non kosher wine in Israel. However more than 90% of the Israeli wine produced is kosher. This is because, without exception, the largest wineries only produce kosher wines.

What is a Kosher wine

Adhering to the Jewish Dietary Laws (kashrut) is essential for all orthodox Jews. The word ‘kosher’ means ‘pure’. Kosher wine laws were established in ancient times, so an observant Jew could avoid drinking ‘Yayin Nesech’ – a wine used by non-Jews to make libations for idol worship and ‘Stam Yayin’ – ordinary wine made by and for non-Jews. Customs learnt over a number of years continue, making these the oldest of all wine laws.

At The Winery

For wine to be certified as kosher, the following regulations need to be followed at the winery.

1. Only religious Jews may handle the product and touch the winemaking equipment from the time the grapes arrive at the winery. The definition of a religious Jew for this purpose is one who is ‘Shomer Shabbat’ – who observes the Sabbath. Therefore a Jewish winemaker who is not orthodox is not allowed to draw samples from the barrels. It can be frustrating for a hands-on winemaker, but though it is a nuisance, it does not affect quality.

2. Only kosher items or substances may be used in the process. Yeasts, fining & cleaning materials have to be certified as kosher and must not be derived from animal by-products. Examples of fining agents not permitted, include gelatin (animal derivative), casein (diary derivative) and isinglass (because it comes from a non kosher fish.) Kosher wine is perfectly suitable for vegetarians – and if egg white is not used for fining, also for vegans,

In The Vineyard

Kosher wines produced in France, Italy & California, only have to observe these two criteria. In Israel – ‘Eretz Ha’ Kodesh’ (The Holy Land), kosher wine producers also have to observe the following agricultural laws which date back to the agrarian society in Biblical times:

a. Orlah . For the first three years, fruit from the vine may not be used for winemaking. The flower buds are removed to prevent fruit formation. In the fourth year the vine can bear fruity and a winemaker is permitted to use the grapes.

Interestingly most wine growers will anyway choose not to use fruit for the first few years for quality reasons.

b. Kilai Ha’Kerem – Cross breeding. Growing other fruits between the vines is prohibited. In southern Europe, a domestic winery may train its vines high, and grow its vegetables underneath. This would be prohibited, but anyone interested in quality has abandoned this practice anyway.

c. Shmittah – Sabbatical Year. There is a law recorded in the Bible which states that every seventh year, the fields should be left fallow and allowed to rest. However because of economic realities, a special dispensation is given to relieve farmers of this requirement and the land is symbolically sold to a non Jew for the duration of the seventh year. The idea of resting the land or introducing a nitrogen cycle is a common practice in today’s agriculture.

d. Terumot & Ma’aserot. This is a symbolic ceremony when over one percent of the production is poured away in remembrance of the ten per cent tithe once paid to the Temple in Jerusalem.

Both Shmittah and Terumot & Ma’asarot are the hardest to explain, being almost seen as voodoo-type practices by outsiders. In fact both give a strong message of social justice and egalitarianism. The concept of giving the land and its workers a one year sabbatical and reserving part of the harvest for the poorer strata of society, was a socially progressive idea in Biblical times. These practices address the most profound issues of spirituality v.’s materialism, but remain mainly symbolic.

There are only three basic categories of kosher wine which will appear on a back label:

Kosher. Permissible for Jews, who observe the Jewish Dietary Laws.

Kosher for Passover. Wine that has not come into contact with bread, grain or products made with leavened dough. Most kosher wines are also “Kosher for Passover”.

Kosher le Mehadrin. Wine for which the rules of kashrut have been stringently approved.

So far it may be seen, there are rules full of ritual & tradition. Notice though, there are no regulations affecting the quality of the wine and standard winemaking procedures are followed in the harvesting, fermentation, maturation, blending and bottling.

The issue of Mevushal Wine is more controversial.

Yayin Mevushal.

‘Mevushal’ wines must be flash pasteurized to 175 degrees fahrenheit or 80 degrees centigrade. The requirement relates to wine handling and service, but is only relevant to orthodox Jews and is usually only required in the context of kosher catering. If a wine is mevushal, a non-observant waiter is permitted to serve the wine, to a strictly religious person. Usually it is the lesser expensive wines used in kosher banqueting that may be mevushal, but without doubt, the best quality Israeli kosher wines are those which are not mevushal.

Kiddush Wines

The category that has done untold damage to the image of kosher wines are the infamous Kiddush or Sacramental wines. Often tasting like sugared water, the importance to the consumer has always tended to be price and religious certification rather than quality. These wines are usually made from a mixture of must and wine, a mistelle, and often from Labrusca varieties. They are often used by Jewish communities or families to make kiddush – the blessing over wine on Friday night.

The custom grew because a sweet wine lasted from week to week and the children also liked it. Also Christian communities seeking wine from The Holy Land will also use similar wines as Altar or Communion wines. Interestingly sales of kiddush wines are in decline as religious families turn to grape juice or table wines instead.

Finest Kosher Wines In The World

The kosher certification provides a similar quality assurance to the ISO systems. All raw materials like yeasts, barrels and fining agents have to be prepared under the strictest quality and hygiene standards. Origin and traceability are key. No winemaker may use anything in the winemaking process, which is not thoroughly checked and approved beforehand.

Israeli wine represents for the religious Jew the largest range and best quality kosher wines in the world. Some of Israel’s finest prestige wines, which are leading the charge for Israel wines to be considered truly world class, are also kosher.

For the rest of the world, Israeli wines represent high quality, from an exotic region in the Eastern Mediterranean, and it is of secondary importance if the wine is kosher or not. The objective for wineries producing kosher wines remains ‘to make the best possible wines…. that just happen also to be kosher!’

Adam Montefiore works for Carmel Winery and regularly writes about wine in both Israeli and international publications.

Israel is a new world wine country, in one of the oldest wine regions on earth. In this Biblical land, one can find a curious combination of the new, old and ancient world of winemaking in a country no bigger than New Jersey or Wales. Ancient Israel, with roots going back deep into Biblical times, must have been one of the earliest wine producing countries at least 2,000 years before the Greeks & Romans took the vine to Europe. It took a Rothschild to renew the tradition and create a modern wine industry.

Baron Edmond de Rothschild, owner of Chteau Lafite, founded Carmel Winery in 1882 and built two large wineries with deep underground cellars, at Rishon Le Zion and Zichron Yaacov. Until today, they remain the two largest wineries in Israel. The cuttings were from Chteau Lafite and the first winemakers of Carmel were from Bordeaux. The initial advice and expertise was French, even the winemaker of Lafite, Charles Mortier, was one of the early consultants.

However in those days the interest in Israeli wine was not great and inexpensive bulk wine or sweet wine was what the market desired. The quality revolution only really arrived in 1980s, when expertise was brought from California. It was the Golan Heights Winery, which introduced new world viticulture and winemaking techniques, and their Yarden wines began be noticed.

In the 1990s a new awareness of quality food and wine began to spread in Israel. A growing number of small wineries were formed. Most famous of these was Domaine du Castel, which was found by Serena Sutcliffe MW, and then by Decanter magazine. The owner, Eli Ben Zaken, taught himself how to make wine from Emile Peynauds book on winemaking. Another was Margalit Winery, founded by Dr. Yair Margalit, a chemistry professor. Since the beginning of the 2000s, wineries of the caliber of Yatir Winery and Clos de Gat were formed. Yatir was a pioneer of a total new region, and Clos de Gat, was Israels first true estate winery. Each received international recognition to draw attention to Israeli wines.

Since then, something close to a wine fever has gripped the country. The area of vineyards has increased to 5,000 hectares and there are now 35 commercial wineries and more than 250 wineries in all. The larger wineries are: Carmel, Barkan-Segal, Golan Heights, Teperberg, Binyamina, Galil Mountain, Tishbi, Recanati, Dalton and Tabor. The best of the smaller wineries are Castel, Yatir, Margalit, Clos de Gat, Chateau Golan, Flam, Pelter, Ella Valley, Saslove, and Vitkin. However all this is relative, because Israel is still a tiny wine country, producing even less than Cyprus. The difference though, is the focus is on development and ongoing improvements in quality.

The main quality red wines are made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. There are also some interesting varietal Cabernet Francs. Characterful Old Vine Carignans and Petite Sirahs give a hint of what Israel may become known for in the future. Amongst the whites, apart from Chardonnays and Sauvignon Blancs, there are also Gewurztraminers, Rieslings and Viogniers. Although Israel has won major awards for dry white wines and sparkling wines, it is probably best regarded for its red wines and dessert wines.

Israel is famed for its agriculture. Drip feed irrigation, which is used worldwide, was an Israeli invention that revolutionized the global agricultural industry. Israels viticulturists are technologically advanced and up to date. As an Eastern Mediterranean country, it is not a surprise that the climate is mainly Mediterranean. The country is divided into five registered wine regions: Galilee in the north, Shomron, Samson, Judean Hills and the Negev Desert, in the south. Like many thin countries, there are a surprising number of microclimates in so small an area. The most successful sub-regions for producing high quality wines are those with cooler climate and higher altitude, like the Golan Heights, Upper Galilee and Judean Hills.

Israels two most famous wineries remain Carmel and The Golan Heights. These are large wineries producing good value wines at every price point, but their best wines are amongst the finest in Israel. Carmel has vineyards all over Israel, including some quality old vine vineyards. The winery is particularly well-represented in the Upper Galilee, where it has a new small winery and a number of young vineyards. This is where their award winning Kayoumi Single Vineyard and most of their Appellation wines come from. The Golan Heights Winery is situated at Katzrin. Yarden and Gamla are produced from vineyards on the Golan Heights plateau. Carmel and Golan represent the terroirs of the Upper Galilee and Golan Heights respectively.

Israels most celebrated wineries are Domaine du Castel and Yatir Winery. Castel is situated in the mountains west of Jerusalem. Yatir Winery is situated in the north eastern Negev Dessert at Tel Arad, but the vineyards lie in Yatir Forest, Israels largest forest, at up to 900 meters above sea level. The repeated successes of both these wineries illustrate the growing respect being given to wines from the Judean Hills.

Most of Israels wineries are modern, technologically advanced and all the major wineries employ internationally trained winemakers, with experience in major wine producing countries. For example, the winemaker of the Golan Heights Winery, Victor Schoenfeld, is from California. He studied at U.C. Davis and had previous experience with Robert Mondavi. Carmels Lior Lacser, studied in Burgundy, worked in Burgundy and Bordeaux, including a spell with Michel Rolland. Eran Goldwasser, winemaker of Yatir, is a graduate of Adelaide University and included work experience at a Southcorp/ Fosters winery.

Lately, sommeliers, retailers and wine critics all over the world, are beginning to show new interest in Israeli wine. They are impressed by the youth, knowledge and dynamism of Israels viticulturists and winemakers. Critics are also reporting favourably. Castel was awarded four stars in Hugh Johnsons Pocket Wine Book 2010. Yatir Forest, the premier label of Yatir Winery, scored 93 points, the best yet for Israel, in the Robert Parkers Wine Advocate and Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon made the Wine Spectators Annual Top 100, for the first time. This does not hint at the depth and variety of the Israeli wine revolution. Robert Parkers latest Wine Buyers Guide devotes nine pages to Israel. The previous edition did not feature even one Israeli wine!

The Eastern Mediterranean was the cradle of wine culture. Israel, like other countries in the region, reeks of wine through its history, archaeology, culture and religious ritual. It has had 5,000 years of practice, and finally the wines are of good quality, showing regional character and improving. Israel today is arguably producing the best quality wines to be found in the Eastern Medterranean.

Article written by Adam Montefiore for TASTED Magazine

By Mira Eitan, Israel Wines

In 1884, a year before his death, Sir Moses Montefiore, then 100 years old, made his last donation to the new village of Rishon le Zion, birth place of the modern Israel wine industry. Over 100 years later a young Englishman with blue eyes made aliyah (immigrated) to Israel. The great, great grandson of Moses Montefiore’s heir had the same objective to contribute to Israel and to advance Israeli wine. He began by specializing in the on trade hotels & restaurants and then worked to progress the exports of Israeli wineries. This is the story of Adam Montefiore. The Ambassador of Israeli Wines!

CONTINUING THE FAMILY TRADITION

The roots of the Montefiore family began in Italy in a small village called Conca Montefiore. At the end of eighteenth century the family immigrated to England. One of the children was Sir Moses Montefiore, known from all the history books of Eretz (the land of) Israel as a philanthropist & founder of the cornerstone of modern Jerusalem. He was a wine lover and we are told that he drunk a bottle of wine every day. When he came to Israel / Palestine he tasted the local wines and wrote even then, that Jews should plant vineyards & produce wine. Moses Montefiore put his thoughts into action by purchasing the first land to be owned by Jews with the express purpose of encouraging agriculture.

The Sebag family arrived in England from Mogador (Essaouira), Morocco over 200 years ago and became related to the Montefiore family by marriage. Sarah Montefiore, Moses sister, married Solomon Sebag. Moses Montefiore himself had no children, and when the time arrived, he looked to find an heir. He decided that the nephew he liked most, Joseph (son of his sister Sarah), would be most likely to continue his work but a condition was that he changed his name. This was how Joseph Sebag became Joseph Sebag Montefiore. From Joseph, a large family grew with children, grandchildren etc. One of direct descendants was called Adam!

In 1884, a year before his death, Sir Moses Montefiore, then aged 100 years old, made his last donation to Israel requesting that it should go to the new village of Rishon le Zion (then a settlement, today the 4th largest city in Israel.) Over 100 years later, a young Englishman, with shining blue eyes landed in Israel. He was the great, great grandson of Joseph Sebag Montefiore and arrived for the same reason to contribute to Israel and to the Israel wine industry. This is how the story of Adam Montefiore began at Carmel Winery, (then Carmel Mizrahi), in 1990.

CHILDHOOD & WINE IN ENGLAND

Adam Montefiore was born in Kensington, West London to a famous Anglo Jewish family. As a young man, he lived in London with his three brothers, two of whom are today well known writers. After finishing his studies, and he searched for work experience. Adam, a practical man, wanted to enter the real world. In the end he did a Business Management course at Bass Charrington. This was then the largest brewery & drinks company in England, the largest hotelier in the world and they had extensive wine interests. Originally he had no connections with the drinks world, but there is a certain drinks culture in all Englishmen through the traditions of the English pub.

However, Adam found himself absorbed in this new world, initially studying beer, and then wines & spirits. He learnt about production, how to taste and finally about the drinks market, and took the WSET (Wine & Spirit Education Trust) courses & exams. England was a good place to learn about wine and Bass Charrington Vintners owned the Augustus Barnett chain of wine shops, the Bordeaux negociant, Alexis Lichine and wine & spirit shippers Hedges & Butler. They also owned Chateau Lascombes in Margaux and were agents for Chateau Mouton Rothschild.
He began as a regional sales manager selling wines, spirits, beer & soft drinks and learnt about the food & beverage world through the Bass public house, hotel & restaurant interests. Eventually Adam became director of Wine & Liquor Development for Bass Hotels (then Holiday Inn & Crest Hotels International, now called Intercontinental Hotels) responsible for the purchasing, marketing & selling of wine within the hotel group.

He was also responsible for compiling wine lists and wine education for wine waiters & sommeliers. He became known for the variety & quality of his wine lists and for the competitions he organized for sommeliers. He was a founder member of the Academy of Wine Service, formed to raise the standards of wine service. Eventually, in recognition for his work in this field he was made an Honorary Member.

In this position he had the opportunity to work with wines from all over the world and in the mid 1980s he came across the wines of the Golan Heights Winery for the first time. He saw the big improvement in Israeli wine and was quick to put Israeli wines on the wine lists of sixty Bass Hotels throughout England.

THE LAST ZIONIST

He enjoyed his job in England, but something was missing. He had a nice house in a Cotswold village in Oxfordshire, England, but it was important to Adam that his children were brought up in a Jewish environment, which was difficult abroad. His family was very Zionist so the only place to go was Israel! Adam had visited Israel seven times as a tourist, liked the country, the history, the food & the people. He was prepared to give up everything to make aliya and immigrate to Israel.

To make aliyah is difficult especially for a couple with three children, (Liam was then 13, David 6 & Rachel 3) without work or job offers & without knowledge of Hebrew. Adam was not sure if he would find work where he would be able to use his expertise in wine, but despite this, thought the risk well worth taking. In November 1989, he arrived in Ra’anana, which became his roots in Israel. Adam liked the country immediately. For the rest of the family it was more difficult and took longer.

He looked for a place within the wine industry but at that time there weren’t so many opportunities. He was in contact with all the wineries but to no avail. He then looked for work systematically in other drinks companies, food companies & hotels. After six months of searching, he finally received an answer & accepted an offer to work with Carmel Mizrahi with both hands. He was made responsible for Hotels & Restaurants an area he was familiar with from his work in England.

AT WORK IN ERETZ HAKODESH – THE HOLY LAND

Initially, Carmel was unsure whether or not to take him on. On the one hand, they saw a person with a knowledge & experience from the world of wine that no-one else could match yet. On the other hand he did not have the language. In the end, Avraham Ben Moshe, CEO of Carmel, decided to take Adam after weighing up what he could offer. Carmi Lebenstein , Sales and later Marketing Director, did not hesitate to warmly recommend Adam because she recognized the great potential. “I knew Adam could make a great contribution to the company she said. I took the responsibility to help him with the language, and wrote his letters for him in Hebrew. That’s how it began. Adam was responsible for being the wine consultant for restaurants & hotels and began to get a reputation for the advice & assistance he gave. Much of his time was spent compiling wine lists in new stylish & informative ways, teaching people how to sell wine and also on wine education for the professional market.”

“His professionalism was appreciated by hoteliers & restaurateurs. From Adam I first learnt it was possible to speak about wine for days on end without a break!” said Carmi. “All my memories are good – he was professional, a nice person, fun to be with. It was difficult for him to cope with the Israeli mentality at first, but he eventually adapted.” Carmi complimented him for pioneering wine by the glass, which did not exist previously, in order to overcome the customers opposition to the quantity & price of a bottle. He also taught waiters how to sell the second bottle to those that were prepared to buy.

Adam worked for Carmel for two years, learnt to be Israeli, studied the language & the local wine market. Wanting to progress & develop, he then moved to the Golan Heights Winery as Market Development Manager. From 1992 he dealt with sales promotions, training & tastings – concentrating as before on the ‘on trade’.

In England, he had organized sommelier competitions with the participation of famous wine & food personalities. In Israel, he started ‘Pras Yarden – The Yarden Award for Wine Service’, which he organized & managed for five successful years. This was the first competition for wine waiters in Israel. Professional wine service improved year on year. He also organized the country’s first ever sommelier course with an emphasis on his special interest, matching food & wine.

AMBASSADOR OF ISRAELI WINE

In 1994, he became Export Manager, firstly only for Europe, then later International Marketing Manager worldwide. To his regret he gradually gave up the education & training role, but he was able to devote himself to exporting Israeli wines.

He started the job, which was in effect ‘The Ambassador of Israeli Wine’, marketing Yarden, Gamla and Golan wines. During a three year distribution agreement, he also worked with Tishbi Winery and later he was involved with the early years of Galil Mountain. Shalom Blayer, Managing Director of Golan Heights Winery from 1998, who worked with Adam for five years said: ‘Adam Montefiore is a man of wine culture. We did not have this sort of person in Israel; he was someone who understood all aspects of the business & knew how to deal in wine. In addition his knowledge increased all the time.” Shalom continued: “Adam is an encyclopedia about wine. There is no book or magazine about wine that he doesn’t know. His legacy to us was the professional library he set up. He has an interest & awareness of the written history & presentation of wine, which is not usual amongst Israelis. I enjoyed working with him & respect him. He is a good friend.”

After nearly 11 years at Golan Heights Winery, he returned to Carmel, where there were many new developments, including a new CEO & a new atmosphere of change. Adam was put in charge of the Export Department as International Marketing Director. David Ziv, CEO of Carmel Winery, commented: “I am pleased Adam has returned to where he began. He has come home. Adam brought with him, both previously & now, his knowledge & experience. He gave us a great deal at the beginning, did excellent work at the Golan Heights Winery, and has returned to give more. Apart from his professionalism, he has excellent contact with people, an understanding of marketing and the ability to provide quick management solutions. Adam is also very modest. I see in him a very serious business partner in all the changes we are making.” David Ziv adds: “I think he has a future in other things not just marketing. Adam adapts quickly & we are happy he is with us.”

One of their first innovations was to form Handcrafted Wines of Israel a consortium of the finest boutique wineries in Israel (Amphorae, Bazelet ha Golan, Castel, Chillag, Flam, Hamasrek, Margalit, Saslove, Tzora, & Yatir wineries) which Adam set up & managed, to advance Israel as a quality wine producing country abroad.

VISION

Adam is an expert on our region. He obviously knows the Israel wine industry, but has special interest in the wines of the Eastern Mediterranean including Cyprus, Greece, Lebanon, Turkey. He believes that maybe Israel is too small to be noticed on its own. However if you take the Eastern Mediterranean as a wine region, it could create new interest. Adam says: “There has been a revolution in wine in the southern & eastern Mediterranean. We are in the heart of the most historic wine region. Israel & Lebanon are similar in size; the food & geography are similar. One day I hope we can work more together.” To promote awareness of this region and encourage the pursuit of quality, Adam arranged sponsorship of: ‘The Carmel Trophy For The Best Producer in the Eastern Mediterranean’ at the International Wines & Spirits Competition in London.

He says Israel will always keep its place in the kosher world, but a lot of work is required if we are to be effective in the general wine market. “I am very proud to represent Israeli wine. We make some really high quality wines.” If you could change something Israel, what would you do: “The lack of pride in Israeli wine bothers me. It annoys me if local journalists write only about imported wines and when restaurants do not give enough attention to Israel wines. We should support & cherish our own as happens in other countries.

We have a great range of wines in Israel, different grape varieties & terroirs, and young people who have learnt abroad have returned to further develop our industry. I am proud to be a small part of the revolution but this is not enough. Missing is the pride in the national product and this I want to change.”

SUMMARY

Whereas during the nineties, Adam Montefiore was an integral part of the team that built the successful brand of Yarden, since December 2002 he has been part of the rejuvenation and renewal of Carmel, and the launch of Yatir, one of Israels most exciting new boutique wineries. During his time in Israel he has been involved with the launch of some of Israel’s most famous wines like Yarden Katzrin, Galil Mountain Yiron, Carmel Limited Edition and Yatir Forest and has been part of many of the positive changes that have occurred in Israeli wine. Now he is Wine Development Director of both of Carmel Winery and Yatir Winery.

In his spare time, Adam continues to write articles about wine for both Israeli and international publications. He wrote the forward and main essays in ‘The Wine Route of Israel’, the chapter on wine in ‘The Book of New Israeli Food’ and the main text for ‘Wines of Israel’. He wrote the sections on Israel and Kosher for ‘The Oxford Companion To Wine’ by Jancis Robinson MW. He also continues to contribute to Hugh Johnson’s Pocket Wine Book, as he has done for many years, and readily supplies information on Israeli wine to other famous wine journalists, always trying to advance the Israel brand.

However though a passionate advocate of Israeli wine, he is not complacent. “We are on a journey. Don’t look where we are now. Look where we were 20 years ago and think where we may get to in the next twenty years!

Mira Eitan is the editor of Wine & Gourmet, Israels premier wine magazine. She originally wrote this article for www.israelwines.co.il and updated it for www.wines-israel.com

In most homes, Shabbat is the time to get out the finest crockery. People who look quite scruffy during the week will be dressed in their best suit and finest dresses. There is a lot of pressure on the lady of the house to prepare the best possible meal. With this effort to make Shabbat as special as possible, it is surprising how often people are happy to drink any old wine or even the most basic, sweet Kiddush wine.

I recently attended a memorable Shabbat in Long Island. Kiddush was made using a Carmel Single Vineyard wine. Then I was entertained with the following wines: Corton Charlemagne, Yatir Sauvignon Blanc 2005, Herzog Alexander Valley 1994, Carmel Ramat Arad Cabernet Sauvignon 2002, Castel Grand Vin 2002, Yatir Forest 2001 and Yarden Katzrin 2000. Not bad for six adults!

Most of these wines are unavailable from both wineries & the best wine stores. Only the avid collector can provide a list of such wines from their private cellar. However, despite their age, all the wines were superb and kosher. What occurred to me, not for the first time, was how many kosher wines today are genuinely world class wines losing absolutely nothing by being kosher. Secondly I was struck by the fact that so few people honor Shabbat by choosing a special wine. Now, if it is important for Shabbat, it is even more important for Passover, the Jewish peoples annual banquet. For a banquet, I will always take as much time choosing the right wines as I would in considering each course. Actually, to the annoyance of those around me, I will take more time over the wine than I will over the food. During preparation, you can alter the food to match the wine, but not vice versa.

Arguably the very best kosher wines in the world are: Castel Grand Vin, Yatir Forest, Yarden Katzrin, Carmel Limited Edition from Israel and Herzog Generation VII, Covenant from California; Chateau Leoville Poyferre , Chateau Valandraud from France. What a statement it would be to serve one of these at the most special wine event in the Jewish calendar.

However, they are rare, hard to find and very expensive. If you are looking for better value wines I recommend Baron Herzog, Gamla, Carmels Appellation and Private Collection, or Dalton wines.

To assist you select your choice, Hugh Johnsons Pocket Wine Book 2010 (published by Mitchell Beazley) rates Israeli wineries. Those producing kosher wines with the highest rating are: 1. Castel, 2. Yatir, 3. Yarden, 4. Carmel, 5= Galil Mountain, Barkan & Recanati.

In Rogovs Guide To Kosher Wines 2010(Toby Press), Daniel Rogov provides tasting notes for kosher wines produced all over the world. Here the wineries awarded the maximum 5 stars are: Covenant, Hagafen & Herzog from California ; Castel, Golan Heights and Yatir from Israel.

When I am choosing wines for Passover, I like to treat the event like a banquet. I choose one of my very best wines for the first glass, in order to honor both the occasion and my guests. We will then follow with a dry white wine for the second, a dry red for the third and a dessert wine for the fourth. I will also use the second and third wine to accompany the meal. My choice for this year will be:

Carmel Mediterranean first glass; Appellation Viognier 2nd glass; Yatir Cabernet Sauvignon 3rd glass and Shaal Gewurztraminer Late Harvest for the 4th glass. I will also have the Young Selected Carignano available as an alternative for the first glass. This is the perfect answer for those who would otherwise drink grape juice or a Kiddush wine. It is also a gentle start for the first glass on an empty stomach.

You can also have fun choosing a theme to make your wine selection more interesting. Maybe one night choose Israeli wines and the next Californian. Or choose each wine from a different growing region in Israel. Another idea is to choose one grape variety, but in different styles for each glass. Whatever the motivation for your choice, I recommend taking time to consider what is appropriate. It is absurd to make either Shabbat or Seder Night special in every way, yet with wine just to buy the cheapest possible. Now is the time to take time over wine. If not for Seder Night, when

This article was written by Adam Montefiore for The Jewish Chronicle in London.

As Israel celebrates Yom Hatzmaut Independence Day for the 60th time, I have been given the task to look back and select a wine to cover each decade. This is not necessarily meant to be a list of the best wine, but the one that best represented Israel at the time, particularly overseas.

1948 -1958
This is a difficult choice. The main brands that continue from pre-state until today are not wines but brandies: both Carmel Extra Fine Brandy and Stock 84 have survived the 60 years of statehood and are still on the shelves. However, if I had to choose a wine to be representative of the period from 1948 to 1958, it would have to be a sweet wine, which is what people then drank. Then there were wines sold by names which have since been protected, like Port, Sherry, Malaga & Tokay. A big seller representing Israel overseas at this time was Palwin (short for Palestine Wine) Israels oldest wine brand, but this was exclusively sold in Britain. So my choice would be Alicante, which was then a sweet red wine made by the Alicante Grenache variety.

1958 -1968
Adom Atik and Carmel Hock were produced by what was then known as Carmel Mizrahi. Hock was the biggest selling Israeli table wine in the 1960s. It was the semi dry wine Israelis used to drink as a spritzer adding soda water. Adom Atik, a red wine, was the biggest selling table wine in export markets, sometimes exporting surprising quantities to the non kosher market, in particular to Sweden. Well into the 1980s international wine books would still refer to Adom Atik when writing about Israel. Once these two wines symbolized Israeli wine. Today they are still sold to the older generation who became used to them over the years. The wine revolution has left them way behind, but historically they are of interest because they have been available throughout Israels 60 years.

1968 -1978
The wine of this decade was Carmel Special Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 1976. This was Israels first serious varietal, aged in barrel & bottle like an quality international class wine. It was a wine that had a long life being drinkable, if well cellared, for up to 20 years. It was the first wine to picture Baron Edmond de Rothschild, the founder of the modern wine industry in Israel, on the label. It was also labeled as a varietal. In the coming years more and more Israeli wines would follow this new world trend. The biggest selling wine during this period was Grenache Rose as Israeli consumers started to move from sweet to semi dry wines. However it was the 1976 Special Reserve which heralded the great leap forward.

1978 – 1988
The award here goes to Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon 1984. The 1985 won more prizes and was arguably both a better quality and more long lasting wine, but the 1984 was the first Israeli wine to win a truly major international award. It won the Gold Medal at The International Wine and Spirit Competition in London in 1987. Furthermore it also was awarded the Winiarski Trophy for the best wine in the competition. This wine heralded the advance of the Golan Heights Winery, which brought the new world technological revolution to Israel, setting new standards for Israeli wine. It was the first wine Israel was mentioned overseas as a country capable of making world class wines.

 

1988 – 1998
The wine of the 1990s was the Castel Grand Vin 1992. This was the wine discovered by Serena Sutcliffe MW of Sothebys, who described it as the finest Israeli wine she had tasted. The success of Domaine du Castel heralded and encouraged the small winery boom and they were the first of the new wave boutique wineries to receive international recognition. There were other great wines like Margalit Special Reserve 2003, the Yarden Katzrin 1990, Israels first super de-luxe wine and Yarden Blanc de Blancs, a Trophy winner, but Castel built on the foundations to become Israels best known small winery. Incidentally, the largest selling wine of this period was Emerald Riesling, a semi dry wine which introduced many of Israels future connoisseurs to wine.

1998 – 2008
The wine of the last ten years would have to be Yatir Forest 2003. This was the red wine finishing in first place in the first tasting conducted by Robert Parkers Wine Advocate. Receiving 93 points would be regarded as a very respectable score for any winery. No other wine from the Eastern Mediterranean region had achieved this and it also equaled the best score ever awarded for a kosher wine by the Wine Advocate. Yatir was one of a number of new quality small wineries, which opened in the first years of the new century. The tasting was a watershed for Israeli wine desperate to shed its kosher image and to be regarded as a quality wine producing country in its own right. The most awarded wines of this period have been two dessert wines – the Yarden HeightsWine1999 and the Carmel Shaal Gewurztraminer 2004. The largest selling brands are Carmel Selected and Mount Hermon. There are many quality wines of every description, at every price point in the Israel of today. However Israels quality will best be judged abroad by its red wines and Israel has waited a long time for a tasting of this status by the most important and influential wine critic in the world. So Yatir Forest is the choice.

Israel has a winemaking history going back 5,000 years and a modern wine industry since Carmel was founded in the 1880s by Baron Edmond de Rothschild. However it is fair to say that the quality revolution has occurred only in the last 32 years. 1976 was not only the year of Carmels famous Special Reserve, but also the year vineyards were first planted on the Golan. It is heartwarming to see the massive strides made by Israeli wine since then.

It is an oddity that in Israel there are no indigenous wine varieties. There are indigenous food grape varieties like Dabuki or olive oil varieties like the Souri, but wine varieties none. It is strange because in nearby countries like Cyprus, there are numerous indigenous varieties and many of the noble varieties like Shiraz and Chardonnay are said to have originated in the Middle East.

In 1882 when Baron Edmond de Rothschild recommended the planting of grapes in Israel, the settlers originally chose hardy Spanish varieties like Bourdalou and Braquet. It appears that indigenous varieties had been uprooted in previous years.

In 1887 Rothschild visited what was then known as Palestine and initiated the planting of the famous Bordeaux varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Cabernet Franc. His objective was to make a really fine wine and he berated his officials who showed any doubts. He sent teams of experts from Bordeaux, installed a Bordeaux winemaker at the Rishon le Zion Wine Cellars and even in the early 1890s sent the Chateau Lafite winemaker to Israel to act as a consultant to the new wineries.

However nature had other ideas. In the mid 1890s the new Israeli vineyards became affected by phylloxera, a louse that was devastating the worlds vineyards. By that time Rishon Le Zion and Zichron Yacov Wineries realized that the market for high quality was too steep for an Israeli wine, but that there was a realistic market for inexpensive wines. Plans were changed and between 1896 and 1899. Vines were uprooted and replaced with the cruder Carignan, Grenache and Alicante. Cuttings were brought from India to avoid the phylloxera plague. These varieties, being used in the South of France, were considered more suitable for the hot, humid climate in Palestine.

The new Israeli wine industry was therefore built on Carignan and Grenache for red wines and Semillon for white wines. In the 1960s, Carmel became the first winery to reintroduce Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc. The first Israeli varietals were exported in 1970. They were Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc, Grenache Rose and Semillon (semi dry).

Then the Golan Heights Winery was formed in 1983 and introduced to Israel the first Merlot and Chardonnay. Cabernet Franc, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Noir, Sangiovese and Viognier were to follow. Eventually most of accepted international varieties would reside in Israel.

In the 30 years between the production of Israels first international class wine, the Carmel Special Reserve 1976 and the release of Carmel Limited Edition in 2006, there have been a continuous stream of world class Israeli wines led by Yarden, and small wineries such as Castel, Flam, Margalit and Yatir. However nearly all of their best red wines were made from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes or based on a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Though many predict that Shiraz or Syrah will become Israels main quality variety in the future, Cabernet Sauvignon still rules.

In most wine producing countries of the world, there is signature variety for which a particular country is primarily known. If the left bank of Bordeaux is known for Cabernet Sauvignon and the right bank for Merlot; Burgundy means Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Australia has Shiraz, Argentina Malbec, California Zinfandel, Chile Carmemere, Italy Sangiovese & Nebbiolo, New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, Spain – Tempranillo and South Africa Pinotage. Of the smaller countries, Georgia has Serapavi, Greece – Aghiorghitiko and Xynomavro, Uruguay Tannat. What is the national grape of Israel

The international grape variety most unique to Israel is Emerald Riesling. This is a hybrid developed by the University of California in 1948 in an attempt to produce a quality Riesling in the hot climate of California. Emerald Rieslings parents were the White Riesling (Johannisberg) and the boring Muscadelle. In fact the only place this variety succeeded was in Israel. The variety was introduced to Israel in the 1970s and by the mid 1980s Emerald Riesling became Israels biggest selling brand of semi dry (sometimes semi sweet) white wine. Emerald Riesling wines became responsible for introducing many new drinkers to wine, performing the same task as Liebraumilch in England and Lambrusco in America. However though the standing of the variety represents volume and value rather than an expression of fine wine, it is seen at its best in the Private Collection Emerald Riesling, which has far less residual sugar than is customary and is the perfect wine to accompany Asian food.

The variety most common to the Eastern Mediterranean basin is the Muscat of Alexandria, which is considered one of the oldest vines in existence. It is usually cultivated for raisins, but in Greece, particularly on the island of Samos, Cyprus, and Israel, it has long been a variety for making aromatic, sweet dessert wines. This Muscat is said to have its roots in North Africa, but its home since then has been the Eastern Mediterranean. The Yarden Muscat, Binyamina semi dry and dessert Muscats and Carmels Muscat of Alexandria have all won major gold medals with this variety.

The only real sraeli variety is Argaman, which means deep purple in Hebrew. Argaman was a cross between the Portuguese grape Souzao and Carignan, developed by the Israel Wine Institute and the Volcani Center. It was planted in the early 1990s with the objective developing a grape more resistant to disease and with better color than Carignan. It is today used to best effect by Barkan/ Segal as a blender for more inexpensive wines, but has not lived up to expectations.

Neither Muscat of Alexandria, Emerald Riesling or Argaman are of the quality, nor do they have the potential to create enough interest, to be described as the national varieties of Israel. White (Johannisberg) Riesling and Muscat Canelli (Frontignan) were introduced in the late 1980s and early 1990s respectively and producing better quality than their predecessors. Furthermore enough Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot was planted in the 1990s to be available for use in cheaper blends. So the original Muscat, Emerald and Argaman became less important.

However there are two much abused varieties Carignan and Petite Sirah, which maybe do fit the bill to be considered as the potential national varieties of Israel. Both are undergoing a quality revival and creating a great deal of interest amongst wine lovers and connoisseurs. When produced with an eye on quality, the Carignan can produce wines which have a nose of strawberry, raspberry & cherry fruit, with good acidity and a backdrop of Mediterranean herbs & spices. Petite Sirah wines, on the other hand, will be an almost black blockbuster, with intense tannins and an enticing aroma of black fruit and violets.

Carignan is a workmanlike variety found in Spain and France. It is the largest planted variety in France, almost all of it in the Languedoc-Roussillon and Provence. It is known as Carignane in America, Carignano in Italy and Carinena or Mazeulo in Spain. In the 1990s this variety underwent a revival in areas such as Corbieres in France and Priorat in Spain. They discovered that Carignan could produce wines of real character. The secret was to select older vines and drastically cut yields.

Carignan is also a variety prevalent in the Mediterranean basin surrounding Israel. It is prolific in Cyprus, Lebanon and Turkey. In Israel it remains the largest planted variety since being brought to Israel by Baron Edmond de Rothschild in the late 1890s. Since those days a large number of Carignan vineyards have been grubbed up in favor of noble varieties but it still represents 20% of Israels vineyards. Until recently it was mainly used just for producing inexpensive wine blends, sweet sacramental wines and grape juice. Carignan was usually the worst or cheapest wine in a winerys portfolio.

In the 1980s the Carignans from Askalon Wines, produced by the Segal family, were some of the best regarded red wines in the country. The variety though, was mainly used a blender for wines masquerading as Cabernet Sauvignon. The breakthrough came when Yair Margalit produced Israels first quality Carignan in 1999. It was a one-off, with 5% Cabernet Sauvignon to provide backbone, but the first time a top boutique winery had given attention to this much maligned variety. The next pioneer was Asaf Paz, who believed in the variety and developed it both when he worked at Carmel and at the boutique winery called Vitkin.

The results of Carmel Winerys decision to revive the Carignan grape has led to a reappraisal of Carignan by the industry. They produced an Appellation (Sidrat Eizory) Carignan from two 30 year old vineyards in the Zichron Yacov area. Instead of the usual 3, or sometimes even 4 tons to the dunam, yields were reduced to a mere 0.8 tons per dunam. (10 dunams = 1 hectare.) The wine was made from 90% Carignan and 10% Petite Verdot (from a nearby Binyamina vineyard) and was aged in French oak barrels for a year in Carmels 100 year old Zichron Yacov Wine Cellars. Recognition came with a gold medal at Terravino in 2006.

Petite Sirah, otherwise known in France as Durif, is another variety to be revived. It is a sometimes spelt Petite Syrah in America. It made aliyah to Israel in the 1970s and was used for inexpensive wines. In the early 1990s there were those who tried to mislead by marketing their Petite Sirah wines as Shiraz, which was derided because it was thought the Petite Sirah had nothing in common with Syrah. It was only in 1998, that the University of California confirmed that Durif was the result of a cross pollination between an old French grape Peloursin and Syrah. So they were related after all! In any event, Petite Sirah certainly makes distinctive wines mainly in California , Australia and in Israel.

The first time Petite Sirah was seen as a quality variety was when Yair Margalit insisted it was an essential part of the Margalit Special Reserves. He considered the 5% to 15% of Petite Sirah as an important ingredient to the success of his flagship wine. Wineries like Yiftachel, Vitkin amongst the boutique wineries and Carmel and Recanati amongst the commercial wineries have also specialized in the variety. Recanati have won awards for their Petite Sirah Zinfandel blend and Carmels Appellation Petite Sirah from old vines in the Judean Hills has also gained plaudits as one of the most interesting, characterful wines available.

Whatever happens to these varieties in the future will determine if they may, in future, be regarded as the national variety of Israel. The mission to revive Carignan and Petite Sirah should be supported by growers, wineries and consumers. It provides much needed variety, quality and the curious wine lover has an alternative to the all conquering Cabernet and Merlot.

Adam Montefiore