Month: September 2008

During the two week period preceding Rosh Ha Shannah we Israelis purchase 40% of all of the wine that is going to be sold during the entire year. It is not at all that people go on drinking binges during this time but that fine wine is coming more and more to be perceived as a part of the cultured way of life, especially when that wine is consumed in moderation, with friends and family and with meals.

As recently as twenty years ago, the vast majority of wine consumed during the holiday season was red, sweet and of a quality most charitably described as mediocre. Today, with both large and small local wineries producing wines of enviably high quality, that is no longer true, the best of Israel comparing comfortably to the better wines of France, Italy and California. Following are reviews of recently released wines, some kosher, others not, those ranging in price from NIS 48 230, all of which are worthy of our attention for the holidays or at any time of the year.

Recanati, Special Reserve, 2005: Full-bodied, dark garnet towards royal-purple, with once firm tannins now integrating nicely with spicy and vanilla-rich wood. Aged in barriques for 19 months, this blend of 84% Cabernet Sauvignon and 14% Merlot, all from the Upper Galilee, shows fine balance and structure. On first attack blackcurrant, blackberry and a hint of anise, those followed by lightly toasted, near-sweet cedar and oak along with an appealing hint of black licorice. Approachable and enjoyable now but best 2009-2014. NIS 180. Score 93. K

Recanati, Syrah, Reserve, 2005 Aged for 14 months in French and American oak, medium-dark garnet in color, with well-focused tannins and moderate spicy wood in fine balance with black cherry, wild berry and cassis fruits, those with just a hint of smoked meat in the background. At this stage the still-firm tannins hold the wine back a bit. Drink now2010. NIS 95. Score 89. K

Flam, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2006: Oak-aged for about 14 months, a full-bodied blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot. Deep garnet towards royal-purple, with soft near-sweet tannins integrating nicely with spicy wood. Intense and multi-layered, opening with cherries and raspberries, those going on to show currants and blackberries, and all on a background of brown spices. Long and generous, with the tannins rising nicely on the finish. Best 20102014. NIS 149. Score 92

Flam, Merlot, Reserve, 2006: Dark garnet, a full-bodied blend of 86% Merlot and 14% Petit Verdot reflecting generous but not-at-all exaggerated oak aging with still firm tannins and notes of vanilla and spices. On first attack black fruits, those opening to reveal raspberries and blueberries, those on a background of mocha and sweet-cedar. Give this one time and it will show fine balance between tannins, wood and fruits. Has the structure for aging. Approachable now but best 2010-2015. NIS 149. Score 92.

Flam, Classico, 2007: A gently oak-aged blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot showing currant, berry and black cherry fruits, those complemented by hints of Mediterranean herbs, tobacco and chocolate. Easy to drink, with just the right hints of complexity. Drink now-2010. NIS 79. Score 89

Golan Heights Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Yarden, 2005: Brooding dark ruby-red, full-bodied, with near-sweet tannins and spicy oak wrapped around black currants, berries, spices and a hint of dark chocolate. Look as well for enchanting hints of citrus peel and vanilla on the long finish. Fine balance and structure bode well for the future. Best 20102018. NIS 120. Score 92. K

Golan Heights Winery, Merlot, Yarden, 2004: Dark garnet towards purple, medium to full-bodied, with tannins and wood integrating nicely and showing a generous array of berry, cassis and plum fruits, those supported by minerals, sweet cedarwood and, rising on the medium-long finish, an overlay of spices and tobacco. Drink now2011. NIS 105 Score 90. K

Castel, “C”, Chardonnay, Blanc du Castel, 2007: Gold, with green and orange tints, deeply floral, full-bodied and with generous but not overpowering oak that parts comfortably to reveal a complex array of citrus peel, summer fruits, hazelnuts, vanilla and crisp minerals. Lively and complex. NIS 170. Drink now-2011. Score 90. K

Galil Mountain, Barbera, 2006: Dark, almost inky ruby towards garnet in color, with its impressive 15% alcohol content in fine balance with wood, tannins and fruit. On the nose and palate blackberries, blueberries, plums and violets supported nicely by notes of vanilla, milk chocolate and, rising on the long finish notes of black pepper. Generous, gently mouth-coating tannins and fine concentration. Drink now-2011. NIS 59. Score 91. K

Galil Mountain, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007: Dark ruby towards garnet, medium-bodied, with soft, gently caressing tannins and showing an appealing array of blackberry, blueberry and cassis, the fruits on a background that hints nicely of mint and bitter-sweet chocolate. Drink now-2010. NIS 48. Score 88. K

Galil Mountain, Merlot, 2007: Royal purple in color, medium-bodied, with silky tannins and showing a generous berry-cherry-raspberry personality, the fruits on a background of sweet peppers, Madagascar green peppercorns and mint. Nothing overly complex here but a lovely wine on its own or with a host of foods. Drink now-2010. NIS 48. Score 88. K

Galil Mountain, Shiraz, 2007: Medium- to full-bodied, with gently mouth-coating tannins and showing an appealing array of cherry, wild berry and peppery notes, all lingering nicely. Drink now-2010. NIS 48. Score 89. K

Vitkin, Cabernet Franc, 2006: A medium- to full-bodied blend of 86% Cabernet Franc and 14% Petit Verdot, reflecting its aging in new French barriques with cedar and vanilla notes, opening to reveal blackcurrants, black cherries and figs, those on a background of sourdough bread and towards the finish hints of mocha and tobacco that rise nicely. Drink now-2013. NIS 105. Score 91.

Vitkin, Carignan, 2006: My earlier tasting note holds firmly. Made entirely from Carignan grapes and developed in new 360 liter French oak casks for 15 months. Full-bodied, with firm tannins just starting to settle in, deep garnet in color and showing fine extraction. On first attack, shows primarily spicy black fruits, those yielding to “let loose” notes of mint and freshly turned earth. Warm and generous with fruits and tannins rising on the long finish. Best 20092012. NIS 90. Score 89.

Karmei Yosef, Cabernet Sauvignon, Bravdo, 2006: Dark royal-purple in color, medium- to full-bodied, showing firmly tannic and with a somewhat heavy wood influence but still maintaining overall good balance between still firm tannins and spicy wood that allows the fruits to sow nicely. On the nose and palate currants, wild berries and mint notes, those lingering nicely. Best 20092012. NIS 120. Score 90.

Karmei Yosef, Merlot, Bravdo, 2006: Blended with 15% of Cabernet Sauignon, aged in barriques for 12 months, deep garnet towards royal purple in color, with once gripping tannins now integrating nicely with spicy wood. Full-bodied, the wine opens to reveal a core of plums, blackberries and blueberries, those on a background of exotic spices and hints of chocolate and mocha that linger nicely on the palate. Drink now-2012. NIS 120. Score 90.

Dalton, Merlot, Reserve, 2005: Soft and round but well focused, opening in the glass to reveal silky tannins and a gentle touch with the wood, those supporting currant, berry, cocoa and light hints of mint and black licorice, all of which linger very nicely on the palate. Drink now2010. NIS 105. Score 90. K

Dalton, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007: Not a complex wine but very nice indeed, showing ripe and distinctive for cherry, blackberry, plum and herbal aromas and flavors framed by notes of sweet-and-spicy oak. Medium-bodied, with soft tannins and lingering nicely on the palate. Drink now-2010. NIS 70. Score 90.

Dalton, Shiraz, 2007: A distinctly New World wine, medium- to full-bodied, with generous but not-at-all overpowering oak and soft tannins in fine balance. At first sip a virtual attack of berry and plum fruits, those yielding on the palate to blackberries, peaches and an array of spices. Long and generous. Approachable and enjoyable now but best 2009-2012. NIS 65. Score 90.

Ella Valley Vineyards, Cabernet Franc, 2006: Developed in one and two-year-old barrels and blended with 5% of Merlot. Garnet toward royal-purple with green and orange reflections, with blackberry
and black cherry fruits and notes of rose petals. Opens slowly to reveal light tobacco and leathery notes, those on a background of crisp minerals. Tannins rise on the long finish to give grip to this elegant wine. Best 20092013. NIS 118. Score 90. K

Ella Valley Vineyards, Ever Red, 2006: A medium-bodied blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petite Sirah (45%, 45% and 10% respectively) developed for 12 months in barriques. Soft near-sweet tannins integrating nicely with red berries, red currants and light oak, all showing a gentle spicy note. Drink now-2010. NIS 85. Score 88. K

Sea Horse, Zinfandel, Lennon, 2006: Medium to full-bodied, this blend of 92% Zinfandel and 8% Petite Sirah shows soft and round with gently mouth-coating tannins and reflects its 16 months in American oak with moderate levels of spices and vanilla. On the nose and palate red plums, wild berries and hints of Mediterranean herbs, all lingering nicely. Approachable now but best 2009-2012. NIS 125. Score 89.

Sea Horse, Syrah, Antoine, 2006: Garnet towards royal-purple in color, medium to full-bodied, with near-sweet tannins and generous pepper from the barriques in which it developed. Opens to show appealing raspberry and cassis fruits on a light herbal and leathery background, leading to a spicy and moderately-long finish. . Drink now2011. NIS 125. Score 89.

Tabor, Merlot, Bazelet, Adama, 2006: Garnet towards royal-purple, with light spicy wood on near-sweet tannins and opening to reveal currant, purple plum and blackberry fruits, those on a background of milk chocolate and, on the finish, nice hints of mint and white pepper. Drink now2010. NIS 67. Score 89. K

Tabor, Cabernet Sauvignon, Bazelet, Adama, 2006: Deep garnet, medium- to full-bodied with hints of white pepper and vanilla from the oak in which it aged. On the nose and palate currant and blackberry fruits, those matched by notes of citrus peel, flinty minerals and, on the generous finish, hints of licorice and espresso. Drink now-2011. NIS 67. Score 89. K

Alexander, Merlot, 2005: Dark garnet towards royal-purple, with firm but nicely integrating tannins, generous spicy wood and hints of tobacco balanced nicely by a generous array of black plum, raspberry, cassis and chocolate aromas and flavors. Drink now. NIS 140. Score 89.

Alexander, Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander the Great, 2004: Blended with 5% Merlot, full-bodied and reflecting the barriques in which it developed for 36 months with firm, near-sweet tannins and generous spicy wood. Generous and long with a complex array of currant, herbal and mineral aromas and flavors but mostly for those who enjoy a great deal of New-World oak with their wines. Drink now2011. NIS 230. Score 88.

Gamla Brut sparkling wine shows off bright yet delicate notes of orange blossoms and green apples, layered with hints of tropical fruits, wild strawberries and fresh flowers.
The flavor is crisp and clean, leaving onewith the desire for another sip.
We love popping open Gamla Brut with something to nibble on before a meal. Itsalso great with fish in general and sushi inparticular.
We recommend drinking Gamla Brut within a couple of years.

The Vintage
Most of Gamla Brut comes from the 2006 vintage. A relatively warm, dry winter preceded the 2006 season. Very low rainfall caused great worry until a cold wet April delivered enough rain to bring the seasonal total to 90% of normal. The relative cool continued to the end of July, delaying the start of harvest by about ten days. Near perfect conditions then prevailed until almost the end of the vintage when, on the 15th, the first of five October rains hit.
The precipitation (five times the October norm!) delayed to November the final 8% of harvest.

Gamla Brut is made from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in equal parts. It is produced strictly according to the
traditional method, including pressing of whole clusters and secondary fermentation in the bottle. Each bottle ages
for a minimum of one year prior to disgorging.

The Analyses
% Alc (v/v) 11.5
TA (g/l) 8.2
pH 3.02
RS BRUT

The Appellation
The Galilee (or Galil) is the most northern, and generally considered the best, appellation in Israel. The highest
quality area within the appellation is the Golan Heights (or simply the Golan), the coldest region in Israel. The
vineyards on this volcanic plateau rise from 400 meters (1,300 feet) above sea level to 1,200 meters (3,900 feet)
and receive snowfall in the winter. The Golan Heights Winery is located in the town of Katzrin, in the central Golan

Victor Schoenfeld, Head Winemaker, Golan Heights Winery:
“The 2004 vintage yielded fruit of the highest quality, which enabled us to produce wines of exceptional quality and character. A clear expression of this quality is the production of single vineyard wines from this harvest in general, and of the 2004 Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon El Rom Vineyard in particular.”

Golan Heights Winery launched a new premium wine: the 2004 Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon El Rom Vineyard. The wine joins a line of previous single vineyard wines from this vineyard that were produced from the 2001 and 2003 vintages.

2004 is shaping up to be a particularly good vintage for the creation of excellent high-quality wines from various varieties. Victor Schoenfeld, Head Winemaker, Golan Heights Winery: “The 2004 vintage yielded fruit of the highest quality from our vineyards, which is one of the reasons Golan Heights Winery decided to produce Yarden single vineyard wines from this harvest. The 2004 Yarden Merlot Ortal Vineyard and 2004 Yarden Syrah Ortal Vineyard were our first single vineyard wines from this vintage. They are now joined by the 2004 Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon El Rom Vineyard, produced from the El Rom vineyard located in the northern Golan.”

Yarden single vineyard wines reflect the philosophy and actions of Golan Heights Winery, which focus on the in-depth study and research of the terroir of the Winery’s vineyards, and its impact on the way various varieties grow and realize their latent potential. Each vineyard and each block receive the utmost individual attention; this is done in a continuous process requiring significant investment, including the development of unique technological methods, while promoting and enhancing the Winery’s experience and creativity. All these make Golan Heights Winery the leading winery in Israel.

Previously, the following Yarden single vineyard wines have been launched:
Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon El Rom Vineyard 2001, 2003
Yarden Merlot Ortal Vineyard 2001, 2004
Yarden Syrah Ortal Vineyard 2004
Yarden Chardonnay Odem Organic Vineyard 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006

About El Rom Vineyard
2004 Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon El Rom Vineyard expresses the unique terroir of the El Rom vineyard on the Golan Heights, with its ensemble of individual characteristics relating to earth, location, temperature and more. The vineyard is located in a particularly cold area, at an altitude of 1,100 meters. At first glance, the combination of cold climate and the vineyard’s deep soil are not promising conditions for the growing of high-quality Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. However, by monitoring the vines’ growth and ensuring that the fruit is not overly shaded, the vineyard consistently produces fruit of exceptional quality.
The El Rom vineyard reflects the comprehensive long-term activities of Golan Heights Winery in the studying and understanding of the unique terroir of its vineyards’ growing region, and in its ability to realize its latent potential.

The wine
2004 Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon El Rom
The 2004 Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon El Rom Vineyard was produced from four small vineyard blocks planted from 1983 to 1985. The grapes were harvested from October 23 to October 27, 2004.
The wine aged eighteen months in small French oak barrels, of which about 70% were new.

The aromatic, intense 2004 Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon El Rom Vineyard combines ripe black fruits along with bright red fruits, all layered with hints of earth, spice, chocolate and nuances of fresh herb. Its dark color hints at the wines highly concentrated flavor and long finish.

While already easy to appreciate and enjoy, the 2004 Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon El Rom Vineyard will continue to develop over the coming years, and should remain in great drinking condition for the next fifteen years or so.

Ideal for festive meals, the wine goes well with full-flavored foods such as a roast shoulder of lamb stuffed with mixed wild mushrooms, or a well-marbled rib eye roast cooked slowly over smoky coals.

The 2004 Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon El Rom Vineyard was produced in a limited edition of 15,000 bottles.

In celebration of Jonathan Tishbi’s 66 successful vintages, an exceptional special edition fortified red dessert wine.
Made from a 50% / 50% blend of Barbera & Zinfandel grapes fortified with Red Muscat brandy distilled in our Cognac alembic and sun-aged for 18 months achieving its unique style & maturity.
Full of intense color, aroma and delicate soft, spiced flavors, it’s suitable as an aperitif, and for gourmet cooking & baking. Serve well chilled.

Wine History 1848 – 1948

In the Israel of the nineteenth century, a few small wineries were owned by Jews. These were small household presses catering mainly to local consumption and religious needs. The raw materials were supplied by the few Arab vineyards in the surrounding hills, particularly from Bethlehem and Hebron. The grapes were undistinguished and local with names like Hebroni, Dabuki and Zeitani. The vines had almost disappeared due to the law forbidding Moslem believers to drink alcohol. However, it was noted how well wild vines and olive trees adapted to the shallow soils of the hills and foothills, and the coarse sandy soils of the plains.

At the time there were moves to encourage Jews to return to agriculture so that they could become self-sufficient instead of surviving on charity and philanthropy. An Englishman, Sir Moses Montefiore, the most prominent visitor to Eretz Yisrael during this time, was one of the first to publicly urge the planting of vines and olive trees so that the Jews might learn to support themselves. In 1855 Montefiore purchased the first land intended to be used for Jewish agriculture. He drank a bottle wine every day and lived to be 100 years old an early advertisement for the healthy properties of wine !

The first recorded winery was opened in 1848 by a Rabbi Yitzhak Shor in the Old City of Jerusalem with the winery itself backing onto The Western Wall. This coincided with the third of Montefiore’s seven visits to Palestine. The Shor family stayed in the Old City for eighty years before moving to modern Jerusalem. There were many home based wine producers. Shors beginning is remembered because his descendants stayed in the business, today owning wineries such as Arza, Hacormim & Zion. The only other Old City business which has survived is a wine and spirits retailer called Efrat, which was founded by Rabbi Avrom Teperberg in 1870. They then specialized in selling wines and spirits to Christian pilgrims, but later became a small winery.

Mikveh Israel

However a more significant beginning was the founding of the Mikveh Israel Agricultural School in southeast of Jaffa. The school, under French patronage and managed by Charles Netter from Alsace, emphasized the new importance of agriculture to a Jewish community that previously avoided it. Mikveh Israel Wine Cellars, on the same site, were the first to use European varieties. Many of the new wave of immigrants who “returned to Zion” towards the end of the nineteenth century, learned the rudiments of agriculture at the school, before planting vineyards in the places where they were to settle. The agricultural school still exists on the original site, near the town of Holon, but sadly the winery is no longer operational.

With the beginning of modern Jewish settlements in 1882, the urge to return to the land intensified. The new immigration wanted to escape the pogroms in eastern Europe and to reclaim the land of their forefathers. They were idealists, unused to physical work, who went through unspeakable hardships.

In 1882 the struggling new settlers of Rishon Le Zion sought financial support from Baron Edmond de Rothschild, a Paris banker. He not only offered support but at the end of 1882 commisioned a report to check out the agricultural possibilities in what was a barren land – too sandy on the coast and too stony on the hills. One of his expert horticulturists from Palace of Versailles at this early stage recommended vineyards as being the solution.

Initially efforts were made to plant wheat and potatoes, which were dietary necessities. When it was clear this would not work, the settlers formally turned to grapes planting from cuttings received from Mikveh Israel. These experimental plantings were successful. Following this period of trial & error, the settlers started to plant more vineyards from 1884. Rothschild, who sponsored early Jewish pioneer settlements in the Land of Israel, had high hopes that viticulture would develop as the main economic basis for the Jewish villages. What they did not yet appreciate was that Edmond de Rothschild was owner of Chateau Lafite, one of the most famous wineries in the world.

Baron Edmond de Rothschild

Following Rothschilds visit to Palestine in 1887, the wine project was given a financial and directional boost. Rothschild was determined to make viticulture succeeed. He created a team of experts including Gerard Ermans, an agronomist, Professer Gayon from the Bordeaux Station of Wine & Viticulture and Charles Mortier, the winemaker and manager of Chateau Lafite. Rothschilds vision was to make a fine Bordeaux style, Israeli wine. He insisted on planting Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Cabernet Franc, against the advice of some of his managers in Israel. Cuttings were supplied from Chateau Lafite itself. In an attempt to bypass phylloxera, other cuttings were brought to Israel from Kashmir in India.

Rothschild then built large above-ground wineries at Rishon Le Zion in 1890 and at Zichron Ya’acov in 1892, and sent a Bordeaux winemaker to take charge. The first harvests were wasted due to the immense heat. Large blocks of ice, cooling spirals filled with cold water were put into the fermenting wine to reduce temperatures, but this was not successful and the wine was lost. In the end, at enormous cost, Rothschild decided to build deep underground cellars at both Rishon le Zion & Zichron Yaacov in order to keep the wine at a constant temperature. The project was begun in 1893 and finished in 1896. The wine cellars at Rishon Le Zion cost the Baron 6 million French francs and at Zichron Yaacov the cost was 5 million francs. By comparison, the purchase of Chateau Lafite had only cost the Rothschild family 4 million francs! This does not include the large investment in the vineyards. The Baron always paid a high price for grapes in order to assure the settlers a decent standard of living, and subsidized them during the frequent early disasters. The worst of these was when phylloxera struck in the early 1890s.

Rishon Le Zion and Zichron Yaacov

Rishon Le Zion, (meaning first to Zion ) was the first of the new settlements in modern Israel. The town, south of Tel Aviv, now numbers more than 250,000 people and is a far cry from the few pitched tents in the sand which can be seen in early photographs. The winery became a living symbol of Zionism and part of the history of modern Israel. The main winery building was where electricity and the telephone were first used in Israel! Later David Ben Gurion, Israels first prime minister would work there. The winery remains fully operational in the center of town to this day the oldest industrial building and the oldest winery, still in use in modern Israel!

Zichron Yaacov was a pastoral village built on the southern slopes of Mount Carmel, overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. Over the years it has still maintained its pre-state atmosphere. The name Zichron Yaacov (which is translated in memory of Jacob), was in honor of Baron James Jacob de Rothschild, Edmonds father, who bought Chateau Lafite for the Rothschild family in 1868.

Carmel Wine Company

In 1895 the Carmel Wine Company was formed to market the wines of Rishon Le Zion and Zichron Ya’acov Wine Cellars. The first export office was opened in Warsaw, followed by Vienna (1897), Berlin, London (1898) and New York (1900). The Company in Britain was known as “Palestine Wine Co.” and the main wines were called Palwin. This brand name is still used there for kiddush and sacramental wines. In 1902 the name Carmel Mizrahi was first used to denote the company marketing wines to the Near East. (Mizrahi means eastern or oriental.) Their market was then Damascus, Beirut, Alexandria, Istanbul as well as Jaffa and Jerusalem within Palestine. The root word of Carmel means Gods vineyard.

The first major award to be given to an Israeli wine was the Gold Medal presented to Carmel No.1 at the famous Paris Exhibition of 1900. Carmel shared the winners podium with some of Bordeaux most famous Chateaux ! In those days wines were known by numbers being easy for new immigrants to identify.

Formation of The Wine Growers Cooperative.

In 1906 the management of the Wine Cellars at Rishon le Zion and Zichron Ya’acov was deeded to the wine growers, who founded the “Socit Cooperative Vigeronne des Grandes Caves, Richon-le-Zion and Zichron Jacob Ltd.”. The registration of the name in French was in recognition of the Baron’s contribution.

It was already apparent that Rothschilds dream of making a fine Israeli Bordeaux style wine would not yet be realized. Yields of the classic varieties were too small for the growers and the market preferred cheaper, bulk wine and sacramental wine. So those varieties producing the biggest yields most cheaply were planted at the expense of the noble varieties preferred by Rothschild. Most of the vineyards were planted in the coastal region of Israel, around Zichron Yaacov and south east of Rishon Le Zion.

Carmel was by far the largest winery. There were other small wineries servicing their own communities. For instance wineries like Shor Brothers sold to the Ultra Orthodox Jewish community, the Templars in Sharona and the monasteries of Latroun and Cremisan sold to Christian pilgrims. There were also other wineries, like Friedman from Petach Tikvah, but none impacted the commercial control of Carmel.

The wine business expanded and sales increased particularly during the First World War, when German, British and Australian troops passed through the country. When the war was over though, the industry lost its principal markets: Russia, because of the Revolution; the United States because of Prohibition and Egypt and the Middle East because of Arab nationalism. Many vineyards were replaced with citrus groves, almonds and olive trees.

To Jews there is no communal, religious or family life without wine. Each Sabbath starts with an act of blessing, the Kiddush or “Sanctification” is chanted over a cup of wine: “Blessed are you O Lord, Our God for creating the fruit of the vine.” Most Jewish families will own a “Kiddush Cup” in the form of a silver goblet or beaker. Four glasses of wine must be drunk at Passover (or grape juice for children), two at weddings, one at circumcisions. At a funeral in ancient times a bereaved was offered ten glasses of wine, the “Cup of Consolation”. Wine is used to sanctify festivals, Bar Mitzvahs and births. At the Festival of Purim, Jews are entreated to drink enough so they are unable to tell the difference between Cursed be Haman and “Blessed be Mordechai”. Traditionally a Jewish boy will have his first taste of wine at his circumcision when only eight days old, and part of a ritual at a wedding is for the groom to stamp on and shatter a wine glass. The joy of wine is introduced to each act of worship.

For the Kiddush ceremony in the Jewish home and in synagogues, sweet red (and usually fortified) wine is traditionally used for two reasons: one, as an open bottle will last until the next week, and two, for children a sip of sweet wine is both palatable and a treat!

The association between wine, Israel and Judaism creates an unique bond between wine and the Jewish people. Also the Christian use of Altar or Communion wine, stemmed not only from the Jewish faith but also from the high profile of wine in the Holy Land at this time. Wine writer Andrew Jefford wrote in the Evening Standard Wine Guide: “The Land of Israel staggers beneath its burden of history and myth, and much of that intoxicating scripturally sanctified baggage is wine-sodden. What Christian would not like to drink the wine of Cana or Galilee after a thoughtful afternoon amongst the splintery, fissured olives of Gethsemane. What Jew would prefer a French kosher wine to one from the land which (according to the Book of Numbers) Moses spies returned bearing an enormous cluster of grapes suspended from a pole?”

By: Daniel Rogov

Flam

Three new releases from Flam, two of which were last tasted from the barrels, one of which a new tasting. What can I say other than the Flam boys continue to do it right!

Best
Rogov (http://www.wineloverspage.com/forum/village/viewforum.php?f=29)

Flam, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2006: Oak-aged for about 14 months, a full-bodied blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot. Deep garnet towards royal-purple, with soft near-sweet tannins integrating nicely with spicy wood. Intense and multi-layered, opening with cherries and raspberries, those going on to show currants and blackberries, and all on a background of brown spices. Long and generous, with the tannins rising nicely on the finish. Best 2010?2014. NIS 149. Score 92

Flam, Merlot, Reserve, 2006: Dark garnet, a full-bodied blend of 86% Merlot and 14% Petit Verdot reflecting generous but not-at-all exaggerated oak aging with still firm tannins and notes of vanilla and spices. On first attack black fruits, those opening to reveal raspberries and blueberries, those on a background of mocha and sweet-cedar. Give this one time and it will show fine balance between tannins, wood and fruits. Has the structure for aging. Approachable now but best 2010-2015. NIS 149. Score 92.

Flam, Classico, 2007: A gently oak-aged blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot showing currant, berry and black cherry fruits, those complemented by hints of Mediterranean herbs, tobacco and chocolate. Easy to drink, with just the right hints of complexity. Drink now-2010. NIS 79. Score 89

Karmei Yosef

Just officially released…

Karmei Yosef, Merlot, Bravdo, 2006: Blended with 15% of Cabernet Sauignon, aged in barriques for 12 months, deep garnet towards royal purple in color, with once gripping tannins now integrating nicely with spicy wood. Full-bodied, the wine opens to reveal a core of plums, blackberries and blueberries, those on a background of exotic spices and hints of chocolate and mocha that linger nicely on the palate. Approachable now but best 2009-2012. NIS 120. Score 90.

Karmei Yosef, Cabernet Sauvignon, Bravdo, 2006: Dark royal-purple in color, medium- to full-bodied, showing firmly tannic and with a somewhat heavy wood influence but still maintaining overall good balance between still firm tannins and spicy wood that allows the fruits to sow nicely. On the nose and palate currants, wild berries and mint notes, those lingering nicely. Best 2009?2012. NIS 120. Score 90.

Sea Horse

Just making their way to market now.

Sea Horse, Zinfandel, Lennon, 2006: Medium to full-bodied, this blend of 92% Zinfandel and 8% Petite Sirah shows soft and round with gently mouth-coating tannins and reflects its 16 months in American oak with moderate levels of spices and vanilla. On the nose and palate red plums, wild berries and hints of Mediterranean herbs, all lingering nicely. Approachable now but best 2009-2012. NIS 125. Score 89. (Re-tasted 10 Sep 2008)

Sea Horse, Syrah, Antoine, 2006: Garnet towards royal-purple in color, medium to full-bodied, with near-sweet tannins and generous pepper from the barriques in which it developed. Opens to show appealing raspberry and cassis fruits on a light herbal and leathery background, leading to a spicy and moderately-long finish. . Drink now?2011. NIS 125. Score 89. (Re-tasted 10 Sep 2008)

P.S. Both wines will be discounted to NIS 100 when bought by the case of 12.

Dr. Yair Margalit has been a constant figure of the Israeli wine scene during the last 20 + years.

Yair Margalit – The Wine Professor
Dr. Yair Margalit has been a constant and reassuring figure of the Israeli wine scene during the last 20 + years. He has consistently produced some of Israel’s most well-regarded wines, was the consultant to many new start-up wineries and has also always been involved in wine education, whether lecturing or writing books.

He was born in Israel and studied Chemistry at the Israel Institute of Technology in Haifa. His Masters and Ph.D in physical chemistry focused on Nuclear Magnetic Resonance. He joined the Israel Institute of Biological Research, where he headed the physical chemistry department for five years.

His interest in wine began from the time he was a visiting research professor at The University of California at Davis in the United States in the chemistry and enology departments. He also spent time in the physiology department in the University of Pennsylvania in Philadelphia.

In 1985, Jonathan (Yonatan) Tishbi, a family grower with vineyards in the southern Mount Carmel area, decided to leave the Wine Growers Co-operative (Agudat Hacormim) and form his own winery. Baron Wine Cellars was founded in 1985. It was situated between Binyamina and Zichron Ya’acov. Tishbi invited Yair Margalit to be his first winemaker. In between his professional academic work, Margalit gained his first experience as a winemaker. Baron Cellars, since renamed Tishbi Winery, swiftly gained a name for ‘good value for money’ wines and particularly for fresh white wines.

By this time Yair Margalit had the wine bug. After a few years of home experimental winemaking, he founded Margalit Winery in 1989. In the first vintage they produced a mere 960 bottles! It was not the first of the new wave boutique wineries. That honor goes to Meron Winery from Mitzpe Harashim in the Upper Galilee. But Margalit was the first serious boutique winery with quality and staying power.

The first wine was a Margalit Cabernet Sauvignon 1989, which was launched in 1991 and it quickly gained a following amongst the wine cognoscenti as one of the best red wines in the country, alongside Yarden from the Golan Heights.

From these little beginnings, Margalit wines grew in production, reputation – and price, but they never outgrew the ‘small boutique winery’ category. The wines became sought after and the rareness of the production created even more demand. Yair Margalit would invite prospective customers to the premises at Kfar Bilu in Rehovot on two days a year. He offered them the opportunity to buy wines in advance and at slightly reduced prices. Today the wine lover has any number of wine tastings, launches or boutique wineries to visit on any given day of the year. In those days, the idea was innovative. It was a rare place for wine collectors to meet a winemaker, taste wine and buy wines not readily available elsewhere. It was also an opportunity for ‘those that understood’ to meet & talk with other like minded individuals, with similar passion.

As the interest in wine grew in Israel, wine collectors became divided between the merits of Margalit wines as against Eli Ben Zaken’s Castel wines. There were constant debates as to which was better, and each had their own loyal following. One was considered more “New World”, the other more ”Old World”, but both set the bar high for the many new small wineries founded in the 1990’s.

The wine that Margalit became most famous for, was his Cabernet Sauvignon, but his strictly allocated Special Reserve, a Cabernet Sauvignon with up to 15% Petite Sirah, was also a unique and magnificent wine. Over the years he flirted with white varieties producing a Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. He also produced a Carignan in 1999.

At this time Yair Margalit generously gave his time and expertise to advise and assist other new boutique wineries. In this way he helped fuel the boutique wine revolution. His love of the academic world was never far away and he continued to lecture at the Faculty of Food Technology in Haifa, but this time on wine. He also conducted many wine tasting courses, just at the time the Israeli interest in wine was growing. Many of the new wine lovers were enthused by attending his courses.

Eventually, Yair’s son, Assaf, came into the business. He began by helping his father. After studies at the Hebrew University’s Faculty of Agriculture in Rehovot, he went to gain experience at a winery in California. Today they are a father and son partnership.

Yair Margalit now produces about 21,000 bottles a year at his winery near the town of Hadera, on the Mediterranean coast (midway between Tel Aviv and Haifa.) He has two vineyards. One at Kadita, in the Upper Galilee, from where he receives his Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot and another at Binyamina, where he grows his Cabernet Franc. His finest wine today is ‘Enigma’, a Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. His wines are represented in Israel by Shaked, the importers and distributors, who also own the wine store chain ‘Derech Ha’Yayin’ (The Wine Route.)

When James Suckling of The Wine Spectator visited Israel recently, he gave his highest score, a 92, to the Margalit Enigma 2004, writing: “It is a harmonious Bordeaux-style blend with wonderful concentration of fruit and ripe silky tannins.” Tony Aspler, Canada’s no.1 wine journalist, was also most impressed by Margalit’s wine after tasting wines from more than 20 Israeli wineries.
Margalit’s wines have always been considered amongst the very best Israeli wines at any given time. However whereas most small wineries took early success as a reason to grow and expand the business, Margalit has more or less stayed the same size. He has preferred to remain relatively small, but focused on quality.

Over the years, Yair Margalit has found time to write three unique, academic books on winemaking. The first ‘Winery Technology & Operations’ was published in 1990. This was followed by ‘Concepts in Wine Chemistry’ in 1997 and ‘Concepts in Wine Technology’ in 2004. Each of the books was published by The Wine Appreciation Guild in San Francisco and each is on the wine shelves of the major book stores, whether Barnes and Noble in New York or Borders in London. They are text books eagerly used by budding winemakers, students or especially interested connoisseurs.

However his biggest contribution to Israeli wine may well be the Cellar Master Program at Tel Hai College. This is the first serious academic program for wine professionals in Israel. Organised by Tel Hai College, Yair Margalit has been the Professional & Academic Manager & Co-ordinator since the first year in 2004. Each year the program has been an overwhelming success and over subscribed.
It gives an opportunity for wine professionals and dedicated wine lovers to gain a serious qualification, which is well-regarded by the industry.

In his own quiet, unobtrusive, but professional way, Yair Margalit, has contributed greatly to Israel wine, as both a winemaker and wine educator.

Once, internationally trained winemakers were a rarity in Israel. Today there are numerous young Israelis, who have studied in the world’s premier wine universities and have experience working in famous wineries. They have returned to Israel to benefit the domestic wine industry. Some of these winemakers are giving Israel a new name for quality.

Lior Laxer is one of these new bright lights on the Israel’s wine scene. Without question he is also in one of the most high profile positions as Chief Winemaker of Carmel Winery.

This is no easy job. He has to manage & oversee the winemaking activities in Israel’s two largest wineries: the wine cellars of Rishon Le Zion & Zichron Ya’acov, which together comprise over 40% of Israel’s total harvest. In 2005 Carmel harvested 18,908 tons of grapes and in 2004, 24,498 tons. To put the scale of operations in perspective, Zichron Ya’acov may receive up to 750 tons in one day. This is what a medium sized winery like Dalton or Galil Mountain will receive in the three months of a normal harvest!

He has had to integrate Carmel’s new small, boutique wineries into the winemaking program, utilising some of the new vineyards Carmel has recently planted in quality wine growing areas. Yatir Winery at Tel Arad, acts as Carmel’s quality station in the south, receiving grapes from Ramat Arad. The new Ramat Dalton winery, in the Upper Galilee, receives grapes from vineyards in the Upper Galilee & Golan Heights. In addition there is the Zichron boutique and Micro-Winery, within the Zichron Ya’acov facility, which provides added flexibility and more options for a winemaker in pursuit of quality. Each of these are modern, technologically advanced wineries, equipped to make wine of the highest quality. However in some cases Carmel has the option of using a combination of two wineries. For instance the Sauvignon Blanc from the Ramat Arad vineyard is pressed at Yatir, but the fermentation takes place at Rishon Le Zion.

It is the policy that Carmel’s finest wines will now only come from one of these small, new state of the art wineries. It is a paradox that currently less than 13,000 bottles are made of each Single Vineyard & Appellation wine. These are closer to the quantities of a garagiste, let alone a boutique! It appears that Carmel, the mass market winery of Israel, has learnt, at the top quality level, to make wine from the vineyard like a small scale winery.

Many have commented on the resulting new wines being produced by Carmel. There has been nothing short of a quality driven revolution. The investment in quality with new vineyards – new wineries – new winemakers has definitely had an effect.Those who are close Carmel watchers, will have noticed a discernable change in quality between the wines pre & post 2003, when Laxer joined Carmel.

Lior Laxer was born in Tel Aviv. His parents were from Romania, a country with strong wine traditions. He remembers his father had a bar & wine was freely offered to all guests as a matter of course. Without realizing it, this was his first introduction to the world he would make as his career.

After serving in the Artillery in the Israeli Defence Forces, he returned from the obligatory year abroad – in Lior’s case he toured Central America, USA & Canada – determined to be a lawyer. He studied at Tel Aviv University, graduated, finished his Bar Exams, but only then decided this was not the career for him. He instead followed a small voice and headed off to Burgundy in France, for him a place akin to heaven on earth. It was here he first became attracted to the world of wine.

He began to work at Dixie Restaurant in Tel Aviv. He started as Barman, became Shift Manager and in the end was the Wine Waiter. Dixie was then one of the more serious & professional wine restaurants in Israel. Laxer entered the Pras Yarden (The Yarden Award for Wine Service) competition, finishing in one of the runners up positions in 1987. In 1988, he was the outright winner as the best wine waiter in Israel.

His interest & experience in wine further increased when he became an importer. For a short time he represented Chateau Bel Air & imported their wines to Israel. However this was more for fun than a serious business move.

However the result of all this was that he found the world of wine more attractive than the lawyers office and he decided to learn winemaking. He traveled to Burgundy to study and graduated from CFPPA in Beaune with a Winemaking & Viticulture Degree. As part of his studies, he worked at Domaine Comte Armand in Pommard, the largest Cote d’Or village. There he was introduced to biodynamic viticulture.

He then had valuable experience working with Michel Rolland in his laboratory. Rolland is arguably the most famous & influential winemaking consultant in the world. He followed this by working in Chateau le Bon Pasteur in Pomerol, Bordeaux, which is owned by Rolland.

He then decided to get some New World experience. He moved to Australia and worked for Harman’s Ridge Estate in Margaret River in Western Australia, a contract winery for 18 different growers.

In 2003 he joined Carmel Winery just before the harvest and was appointed Chief Winemaker of Carmel’s Rishon Le Zion Wine Cellars. In 2005, still in his early thirties, he was appointed Chief Winemaker of Carmel Winery responsible for four wineries.

He is assisted by colleagues with many years experience like Zvi Skaist, Chief Winemaker of Zichron Ya’acov and Haim Wachtenchaim, the Winemaker at Rishon Le Zion. To these may be added Canadian born Sam Soroka – the winemaker of the Zichron boutique, Kobi Arens – the winemaker of the winery at Ramat Dalton and Eran Goldwasser of Yatir. Interesting each one of these winemakers has graduated, studied or worked in Australia, the world’s pioneer in the new world technology of winemaking & viticulture.

He is advised by Peter Stern from California. Stern worked for icons Robert Mondavi & Julio & Ernest Gallo in the past and currently works for Herzog Wine Cellars. He was winemaking consultant to the Golan Heights Winery from 1983 to 2003. In 2004 he became Carmel’s consultant.

Lior likes to make elegant wines with refreshing acidity, rather than high alcohol, fruit bombs so popular in the New World (and lately in Israel too). It is particularly important to him that the finished wine will show evidence of the terroir of the vineyard, with minimum interference by the winemaker. Amongst the more inexpensive labels, his objective is to make fruit forward, easy drinking wines, where taste & flavor of the fruit dominate rather than the oak. Those tasting the new 2004 Private Collection reds and the 2005 Vineyards Selected (aka Selected in Israel) wines will undoubtedly notice a positive change in style.

He admires wineries like Penfold’s, which he sets as his model. He notes they are able to produce wines in enormous quantities, while still producing high quality wines at every price point – from The Grange to regular supermarket wines. His favorite wine region though, is Burgundy, and part of him would one day like to settle there to make high quality Pinot Noir’s for some small winery.

His current task is taking up all his time & energy for now. His objective is to ensure that the immense progress Carmel has made, continues. In truth, the main compliment lies in the wines and his Single Vineyards & Appellation wines have had rave reviews not received by Carmel since the Carmel Special Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon’s of 1976 & 1979. Yasher Koach!