In all the fluff surrounding wine, it will surprise many to know that the label is actually quite modern. The use of a glass bottle, wooden barrel or cork are far older. This is not to say that information about wine was not in demand. The Ancient Greeks and Romans were not beyond giving details of what the wine was, who owned it and where it was grown, but this was on amphorae not bottles.
Seventy years of the State of Israel and seventy years of Israeli wine. This has included thirty-five years of wine mediocrity and thirty-five years of exciting development. We went from a time when Alicante was the most planted grape variety in the 1950’s, to four decades of dominance by Carignan until today, when Cabernet Sauvignon is the most planted variety. When the State of Israel was founded over ninety percent of our vineyards were planted in the coastal regions including the valleys surrounding the southern Mount Carmel and the central plain, the Judean Plain and Judean Foothills. Now the vineyard concentration has moved northwards to the Galilee and Golan Heights and eastwards to the Judean Hills rising towards Jerusalem. I will attempt to divide our wine story into decades and select a wine and the person who contributed most.
How time flies. Difficult to appreciate that Domaine du Castel has already passed its 25 year anniversary. The winery has been the pin up of Israeli wine, showing Israeli wine at its best. Yet it started more or less as a hobby, only developed into a business almost by accident, and then went on to act as a figurehead for the whole Israeli wine industry. It is now not an exaggeration to say Castel has become a national treasure.
It may be the quality red wines which receive all the plaudits. These are arguably the wines that Israel makes best and the critics love to write about them. Thankfully white wines are making something of a comeback. Wine lovers are realizing they are more versatile with food and are more rewarding in our climate. We are making some very good white wines these days. However, people often forget that Israel is also getting a name for producing wonderful dessert wines.
Unfortunately most Israelis are damaged by a lifelong association with Kiddush wine for Friday Nights, Festivals and Seders. So they associate sweet wine with simply the worst wine, often tasting like sugared water and with religious ritual. Therefore the very word ‘sweet’ has connotations of a cheap and nasty. It is something which is to be avoided, at all costs.
