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the jerusalem post

WINE, CULTURE AND PORTO

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the jerusalem post

PORT ROYALTY

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THE PARTHENON OF PORT

I have been in Israel for 36 years. In the UK I was the Jew, but here I am the Brit. Something to do with the accent which I would still have even if I lived here 100 years. Time does not assuage the longing for some things I left behind in Britain. The list won’t surprise other Brits. They include Tetley’s tea, Coleman’s mustard, Branston pickle, Chivers marmalade and something most people outside the sceptered isle, can never understand, Marmite. I would have to add mature cheddar cheese and ripe stilton to the list. If I delve further I would include cricket at Lords and Real Ale (aka cask conditioned ale) in a British pub. Delving into the wine trade, which is the bubble I live in, I so much miss the easy availability of Port, Sherry and Madeira, which I love.

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I AM IN HEAVEN

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WONDERLAND

I have written in the past that Portugal is the next big thing in wine countries. I still believe this today. It is a country with many different and unique wine regions, their own indigenous grape varieties and wines to satisfy all tastes. Prices are also very reasonable. The problem is that so much good wine is made in Europe, demand if anything is dropping and it is hard for the Portuguese to muscle their way onto the stage. However, if there was ever a country that merits exploring for the wine lover, it is this one.

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SALUTE TO NEGRONI

It is not just Rosh Hashanah this week, but also International Negroni Week. Two important occurrences coincide! Negroni Week lasts from September 22-28th. This is the most famous Campari cocktail, which most probably was adapted from an Americano, a cocktail of Campari with sweet vermouth and soda water. The unsubstantiated folklore says a Count Camillo Negroni from Florence, was unsatisfied with alcoholic punch of his Americano. Therefore, he ordered his own version, asking for gin in place of the soda water. That was estimated to be 1919, and the Negroni cocktail was born.

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A TOAST TO SHANA TOVA

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ROSH HASHANAH WINES

Many families still use Kiddush wines for Shabbat because of tradition. These are the sweet red sacramental wines that really gave kosher wines a bad name. Those in wine education have always tried to upgrade these, reminding people that there is nothing written that a wine for Kiddush has to be sweet and poor quality. In fact, I remember a Haredi wine lover who taught me a lesson. He would buy 52 bottles of Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon each year and make Kiddush using a Riedel glass just to honor Shabbat.

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DARK AND LIVELY

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MAKE GUINNESS GREAT AGAIN

I love Guinness. I like the sturdiness and bitter character of the traditional bottled Guinness and the smoothness and creaminess of the draught, on tap or in a can. Most of all I am a Guinness voyeur.  I like to watch Guinness settle in the glass, eventually arriving at an impenetrable black liquid, with two fingers of that white, tight bubbled, creamy frothy head.  Though I love Real Ale, or what is also called in Britain, a pint of Bitter, I am mainly a lost cause having reverted to wine. But if I do have a beer, it is likely to be Guinness and sometimes when I see it is available, I can’t resist it!

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BACK TO BLACK

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KEEP WALKING

I myself am partial to a good Malt Whisky. I was weaned on the sherry cask whiskies of The Macallan, and I have my favorites which I drink in thistle glasses with a drop or two of mineral water to bring out the aromas. These are whiskies to savor over an evening or to share with like-minded friends. Sharing the experience is always more satisfying than drinking alone.

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PROOF OF THE PUDDING

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THE BEER SOMMELIER

The sommelier in the wine trade is a very central figure. Whereas, the winemaker rules the roost within the gates of the winery, beyond that it is the sommelier who is the main wine professional. Their job is not just serving the wine in a restaurant. It may also involve purchasing, selling, managing the wine inventory or cellar, as well as staff training and wine education. This was an interest of mine in my first steps in wine. In the UK, I was a founder and then honorary member of The Academy of Wine Service in the late 1980s. On arriving in Israel, I founded Pras Yarden – The Yarden Award for Wine Service. This went on to be the main competition for sommeliers and wine waiters for the next twenty-five years. I also organized the first Sommelier Course in Israel in the early 1990s.

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THE MACALLAN MAGIC

For all whisky mavens, The Macallan has a pride of place. This is also true amongst Jews, for whom Scotch, in general, and Single Malts in particular, has become the chosen spirit. Looking back, it is amusing to relate that I have had a personal happening with The Macallan Whisky approximately every twenty years. Though the distillery has changed, grown and developed, it still maintains its position on a pedestal as one of the very finest Single Malt Whiskies.

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THE ESSENCE OF SCOTLAND

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ON A MISSION TO SAVE MAVRO

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A LAND OF MOUNTAIN VINES, CATS AND ROSES

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MAKING WINE IN THE CLOUDS

Cyprus is a beautiful place to visit. It is a country with beautiful beaches, expansive resort hotels, great restaurants, even casinos. There are plenty of good hiking opportunities and Cypriots are as a people relaxed, friendly, and always ready with a warm welcome and a smile. By far the majority of tourists visiting Cyprus are from Great Britain. There is a historic reason for the popularity with the Brits. Once it was a British colony. Second on the list are Israelis, probably because of its close proximity. It is quicker to fly to Larnaka than to Eilat. Let me say on behalf of all Israelis, we hope we arrive politely and leave a good impression. We have not always travelled with our manners, but let’s hope we are learning and that our image as tourists is improving.

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HIGH MOUNTAINS, OLD VINES & INDIGENOUS VARIETIES

I was pleased to be part of the Circle of Wine Writers visit to Cyprus. It included members from Austria, Chile, France, Germany, Hungary, Israel, Italy, Netherlands, Romania, Sweden, Switzerland, Taiwan and the UK. So, it was quite an international gathering.  The Circle of Wine Writers is based in England and is an organization of wine writers, wine educators and wine communicators. There are only 270 members worldwide. One of the benefits of being on a tour with other wine writers, was to meet, share and schmooze with others in a similar field, but from all over.

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SHAVUOT IN PINK & WHITE

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CHEESE AND WINE

Shavuot is also known as the Feast of Weeks and Pentecost. It is the second harvest festival commemorating the wheat harvest. It commemorates the giving of the Torah, and many will stay up all night studying. We traditionally eat only dairy produce and white wines go best with the foods offered, especially if cheese is on the menu. Many wine folk will therefore be organizing cheese and wine parties and for this I recommend a variety of white and rose wines at different price points

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SEPARATION NOT DIVISION

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EXCLUSION OR INCLUSION

The essence of Kashrut in wine may be found in the phrases Yayin Nesech and Stam Yeinam. Both are prohibited to wine drinkers who follow the Jewish Dietary Laws. Yayin Nesech is a wine poured in a libation by idol worshippers. Stam Yeinam is a wine owned, touched or moved by non-Jews. Quite often I am asked if a small winery I have written about is Kosher or not. Often I answer that though it is not, the wine is made by a Jew who is not an idol worshipper. It is meant to be tongue in cheek, but if we are talking tachles, then this sort of winery is not covered by the prohibitions of either Yayin Nesech or Stam Yeinam. In fact Kashrut in wine has been a moveable feast, changing over the years.

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HAIL TO THE ANCIENT WORLD

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A DAY OF BEER AND WINE

Yom Ha’atzmaut demands a spirit of togetherness which creates a sense of enjoying the moment and looking forward. We will celebrate it this year, not forgetting anything, but old habits die hard. This is Israel Independence Day, a time of celebration and happiness. However, we will be hoping and demonstrating for the return of the hostages both before, maybe during and after this special day. I hope not, and that they return beforehand. It does not bear thinking about that this is the second Yom Ha’atzmaut where Israelis are held in captivity in terrible conditions in underground tunnels. Once upon a time in Judaism, redeeming the captives was considered sacred and the Israeli ethos of not forgetting anyone and not leaving anyone behind, was a source of great pride. What happened? Where did these noble principles go to? They seem to been sacrificed on the altar of waging a permanent war.

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NEW FROM THE ANCIENT WORLD

At the recent Sommelier Trade Exhibition in Tel Aviv, I came across an Armenian winery. That piqued my interest. Armenia is one of those countries in the southern Caucasus, where wine had its beginnings. They are new here, but part of the Ancient World of winemaking…..and we are too!

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MATZAH & WINE TIME

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BORN IN A GARAGE

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WINE TO IMPROVE THE MOOD

Passover is known also as the Festival of Spring and the Festival of Freedom. It is certainly the spring season. To see that, one only has to visit a vineyard. The vines are budding and the vineyards are covered in wild flowers. It is our annual lesson, that wine goes on despite the surrounding noise. Nature is not affected by mood. It presses on regardless. The Festival of Freedom is harder to celebrate this year, with those kidnapped still held in Gaza. Redeeming the captives is an important facet of Judaism, and the Israeli ethos is not to leave anyone behind. So, it is very hard to understand why they have been abandoned twice, firstly on October 7th and then since.

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THE ISRAELI GARAGISTE

I recently wrote an article in the Jerusalem Post and the person editing the article questioned the use of the word ‘garagiste’ saying Americans would not know what it was. In fact, it was at the peak of the influence of American critic, Robert Parker, that the word garagiste first became used. It described the French domestic artisan winery that was small enough to fit in a garage. Some of these produced wines in the Parker style and he fanned the new interest by giving them high ratings. The French term garagiste winery was born.

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DAMAGED GRAPES MAKE BEAUTIFUL WINE

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BE HAPPY, DRINK HEARTY

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PERSIAN WINE PARTY

Purim this year occurs in the second week of March. The vines will be budding, the vineyards will be covered in spring flowers and local fauna will be darting between the vines, using the vineyard as a playground. Spring is here. But that is growing wine here and now. We will shortly be celebrating the Festival of Purim that relates back to wine a long, long time ago in Persia, approximately BCE 5,000. The background to the Purim story unfolded during Persian wine infused banquets that were all the rage in those days. In a nutshell, the Persian Jews were saved from the evil Haman who wanted to destroy them. Purim is also known as the Feast of Lots, because Haman drew lots to help
decide which day the massacre would take place. The story is retold in the Book of Esther in the Bible. In the end Haman was hanged and Mordechai, the Jew, replaced him as First Minister. The
hero of the story is Esther, who became queen by marrying King Ahasuerus, and plucked up courage to tell the king of the plot. Thereby saving the Jewish people.

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TERRAVINO LIFETIME AWARD

Terravino 2025 has awarded its Lifetime Achievement Award to Tali Sandovski of the Golan Heights Winery. Terravino is the only international wines & spirits competition in Israel. The competition is celebrating its 20th year. The idea and concept was created and developed by Haim Gan, and since then it has been organized by him strictly according to OIV guidelines.

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LOVE IN A GLASS

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VINOTHERAPY: A JOURNEY FROM TRAUMA TO GROWTH

Israel is the Start-Up Nation known for breathtaking advances in medicine, agriculture and technology. There is simply no-one on earth who uses a telephone, computer or who visits a hospital, that does not benefit from Israeli inventions, innovations and research. I recently stumbled across a fascinating new initiative called Vinotherapy, a method of treatment for individuals suffering from Post Trauma. It could be a veteran or simply a person who is a survivor of a terrorist attack in the streets where they live. The trials and research are being done here and to my knowledge it is the only place in the world exploring the idea of treating those coping with Post Trauma through the process of viticulture and winemaking.

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NEW YEAR FOR VINES

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TU BISHVAT FOR TREES AND VINES

Once a year we celebrate Tu Bishvat, the New Year for Trees. Children go on tree planting outings. Families will mark the festival by eating nuts and dried fruits. Those abroad will send donations for a tree to be planted in their name. This is the first festival of the new calendar year. Yet there is some dissonance with the timing. Why on earth do we observe Tu Bishvat in the winter? One would expect the spring to be a far more suitable time.

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SWEET IS NOT A DIRTY WORD

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F*CK YOU WINES

When we have a wider family get-together, we number twenty three adults, ranging from 18 to 86 years old. Of these, eight are serious dedicated wine drinkers, who will taste every wine I bring….and I bring a few. A further five will take a glass of their favorite wine and it will last the whole evening. Most won’t finish it. Another will only drink white, because red gives her headaches. The two octogenarians will look up hopefully when I arrive and will ask “do you have a wine for us?” They are referring to Moscato. By chance last time, I took a bottle of a wine made in the style of Asti Spumante (sweet fizz). A further four people became animated and exclaimed: “Finally you bring a wine we like!” The remaining three people won’t touch wine, even if I paid them.

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GO NORTH

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THE GALILEE IS OPEN

The north of Israel has been bereft of wine tourism for over a year. Tourists stopped coming, winery visitors’ centers were closed and residents were evacuated. Now is the time to go north again and support our wineries, particularly in the Galilee.

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A FAMILY JOURNEY

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VITKIN WINERY: CHUTZPA AND VISION

The ABC revolution (Anthing But Cabernet or Chardonnay), giving life to other lesser known varieties, began with the founding of a small winery situated in the Sharon Plain, called Vitkin Winery. They themselves call it ABU, Anything But Usual. They chose any grapes other than those noble varieties which were the basis of the quality revolution in Israel. The big four grape varieties that dominated quality wines at the time were Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. Furthermore, most of the wines were varietals, being named after the dominant variety.

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FAKE IT UNTIL YOU MAKE IT

I have just come up to my 15th year as wine writer for the Jerusalem Post. That is a lot of articles! Every December, every year, I write an article on sparkling wines for the end of year celebrations. That was until last year. I just could not bring myself to write about partying with a war going on and hostages not yet home. This year I feel the same. I never believed a year ago, that the war would still be going on a year later, that the hostages would still not be home, and so many of our finest would have been killed and maimed in the October 7th War. The country seems to be in a collective depression. It feels disingenuous to write about celebration, when the mood is rock bottom, but maybe an excuse to party is a good thing.

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JERUSALEM WINE STORY

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WINING IN JERUSALEM

Wine has featured strongly in Jerusalem since the time of King David. The Kings of Judah were said to have owned vast vineyards and stores for wine. King David’s wine holdings were so substantial that his court included two special officials to manage them. One was in charge of the vineyards and the other in charge of the cellars. These may have been Israel’s first viticulturist and first sommelier!

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A KID WITH A CRAZY DREAM

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TEQUILA SUNRISE IN THE NEGEV

When I came to Israel the main spirits were made by the wineries. Carmel Mizrahi made a product from imported molasses called ‘Tehila’, which was a poor imitation of Tequila. They also had products like Captain Rum and Lord Gin. You get the idea and can imagine the quality. All these disappeared when the import gates opened and the big global brands arrived. When that happened, the feinschmeckers chose Scotch whisky and the prize for volume went to vodka. It was only in the last 15 years that a local artisan distillery trend began, but on a very small scale. Julius Distillery led the way, followed by the likes of Golani, Pelter, M&H and Yerushalmi. The one that reached the furthest in international circles is the M&H Whisky Distillery that has brought Israeli whisky to the world.

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RETURN TO SEPHARAD

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FLAVOR OF SPAIN

Despite the sea of Kosher wine being made in Europe, there are only four wineries there that are Kosher all the way, from the roots up. Two of these are in Italy, one in France, and the other is in Spain. The Spanish winery was the creation of a scientist and artist. It was the first Jewish owned Kosher winery in Spain since the Inquisition expulsion in 1492. It was owned by a wandering Sephardi family, who returned to Spain. The first Jewish owned Kosher winery for over 500 years.

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ISRAEL FLAM AT 80

Israel Flam has celebrated his 80th birthday joining other famous wine octogenarians like Eli Ben-Zaken of Domaine du Castel and Yair Margalit of Margalit Winery, not forgetting Mimi Ben-Joseph who is in his nineties. Flam worked for 35 years at Carmel Winery, the largest winery in Israel, and is the now the patriarchal figure of Flam Winery, one of Israel’s very finest small wineries.  During his career, he has overseen enormous changes in the wine scene in Israel. 

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ISRAELI WINE UNDER ATTACK

Baron Edmond de Rothschild founded the Israeli wine industry by planting vineyards in the coastal plain. These were in the valleys of the southern Mount Carmel, and south east of what was to become Tel Aviv.  When the quality revolution took place from the 1980s onwards, Israeli wine gradually moved northwards and eastwards in search of altitude. At high elevation, the climate was cooler, the growing season was longer and this was more conducive to a quality product. Today, more than 40% of Israeli vineyards are situated in the Galilee which borders on Lebanon, and on the Golan Heights, which borders on Syria.

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HARVEST UNDER FIRE

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LION OF NEGEV FOREST

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STAR OF THE SOUTH

Yatir Winery is approaching its 25th year anniversary. During all this time, the same CEO and winemaker have steered the winery. That is rare continuity amongst Israeli wineries. As a result of their skill and a unique terroir, Yatir has become one of our finest small wineries and it is the undisputed star of the south. Yatir Winery was founded in 2000 at Tel Arad in the northeastern Negev Desert. The winery overlooks the traditional Ramat Arad vineyard and close by there is a swathe of newly planted vineyards which hint at success, growth and a productive future. All is overlooked by the Tel Arad Citadel, an archaeological site with 3,000 years of history. Wine was part of the story even then. An ancient papyrus was found there with the important message scratched on it by a soldier: “If there is wine, send quantity.” This was dated 2,600 years ago!

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SHANA TOVA – KEEP CALM DRINK WINE

It is hard to believe nearly a year after October 7th, that we are still at war in Gaza, that Israelis in the north are still living like refugees in their own country and that the hostages are still not home. The country has never been so split. We are going through the worst times since the founding of the State and a collective depression has descended on Israelis everywhere.

Quite apart from anything else, Israeli wine has been under attack. A winemaker was killed; wine hobbyists kidnapped and murdered in captivity; a winery destroyed; vineyards burnt and other vineyards abandoned for security reasons; winery workers called up; visitors centers closed and wineries operating on a security footing. The damage to the Galilee and Golan has been eco terrorism at its worst.

A similar article first appeared in the Jerusalem Post

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HOPING FOR BETTER TIMES

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HEAD IN THE CLOUDS, HANDS DEEP IN THE SOIL

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A LAND OF OLIVE GROVES AND OLIVE OIL

Olive oil and wine are the exalted products produced from the humble olive and grape. They are symbols of ancient Israel as much as of the Start Up Nation of today. The ancient Israelites and modern day Israelis would have been equally familiar with the importance of olive oil and wine, both for nourishment and trade. The olive grove and vineyard have always been planted where the soils were too stony or unfertile for other crops and fruit trees. To see a vineyard and olive grove in close proximity is always a thing of great beauty in my eyes. They are partners in crime and go together like salt and pepper or tehina and hummus. The Book of Deuteronomy refers to a land of olive oil and wine. Both were one of the Seven Blessed Species. In fact the vine and olive tree are symbols not just of Israel but of the Mediterranean as a whole. Thucydides wrote that man became civilized when he began to cultivate the olive tree and vine. 

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LIQUID GOLD

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KEREM L’HAIM

After the world turned over, and living hell arrived to the Negev on October 7th, Yaakov Hasan was interviewed a few days later. On camera he was visibly disturbed by what he had seen with his own eyes. He struggled to relate what he had experienced. He was still shell shocked and no words could convey the grief inside. However, as he spoke, the spirit of this impressive young man came to the fore. He became stronger as he finished the interview saying “Mark my words, I will plant a vineyard in the name of those who perished, just wait and see.” Sure enough he fulfilled his commitment and the vineyard is now putting its young roots into the sandy soil of the Negev. The roots of the vine dig deep, especially in the desert in search of moisture. This hardy plant will give fruit for decades. There is no greater statement of taking ownership of a place than planting a vineyard.

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THE VINEYARD OF HOPE

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HE HAS A DREAM

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REMEMBER THE NAME

Many people have dreams and ambitions, but few articulate their plans so clearly from the very beginning. The first steps are normally taken gingerly and quietly, so mistakes can be learnt from without being under the microscope. A brand is built slowly layer upon layer over years. There is no rush. From the time you plant a vineyard, you can’t use the grapes until the 4th year. Then you may put your precious red wine into barrel to mature for 18 months, and then leave it another six months’ bottle age before release. As a marketer and the builder of a wine brand that gives you time. As a businessman it is nightmare. There is no cash flow, just outgoings and expenditure. The accountant will not be pleased.  It may be 6-7 years before you can sell your precious wine, and who knows when you will be paid.  Building a winery is long term, everything is in slow motion. Patience is not a virtue, it is a necessity. There is no alternative.

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A HEART, A ROSE & A GLASS OF WINE

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WINE OF DEFIANCE, HOPE AND RESILIENCE

Let me tell you about a wine of defiance, hope and resilience. It will not win gold medals or high scores. The international wine critics will not have heard of it. It was only produced in miniscule quantities. But no doubt in my mind, this is one of the ‘Israeli Wines of the Year.’ This is a story of unspeakable horror, unbearable tragedy, but also of redemption, rejuvenation and an underlying optimism. It spreads a feeling of strength in adversity and hope. It tells the story of the biggest tragedy to befall the Jewish people since the Holocaust, in a bottle of wine. A message in a bottle.

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IN PURSUIT OF A MISSION AND A DREAM

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A TASTE OF TOTAL VICTORY

Tom Carbone is a blend of Australia and Italy. Two stellar wine producing countries. His mother came from Sydney, his father from Rome. He studied viticulture and oenology in Milan and recently launched a first wine. It was sold out within a very short period of time. None of this would cause much interest, if the words ‘Be’eri’ were not written on the label. This is the kibbutz in the northwestern Negev, where the very worst of the atrocities took place on October 7th. Tom Carbone has Be’eri imprinted in his very DNA. It is where he grew up and in these days of recovery and hopefully rejuvenation, he is the absolute essence and spirit of the place. Yet today, he and his young family, are living in a Dead Sea hotel. He travels from the Dead Sea to Be’eri in the north western Negev to work in the Be’eri Dairy.

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ESHKOL HAZAHAV 2024

Eshkol Ha’Zahav, Israel’s premier wine competition was held for the 22nd year. Eshkol Ha’Zahav means The Golden Cluster.This year, 266 wines were registered for the competition. The wines were tasted by a forum of judges comprising 24 winemakers, sommeliers and wine professionals. The competition’s chairpersons were Mr. Haim Spiegel and Adv. Nachman Cohen Tzedek. The competition is organized each year by Studio Ben Ami, owned by famous sommelier Avi Ben Ami. He also organizes the Best Value Competition and the annual Sommelier Trade Show.

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SEEING RED, DRINKING WHITE

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A WHITE SHAVUOT

Despite distinct changes in both the quality and popularity of both rosé and white wines here, Israelis still predominately drink red wines. Also in the international Kosher wine market, red wines are king. Whether in America, France or England, the wines the Jewish community are buying, tasting and talking about are reds. It is in their genes. Red is the default choice without thought. Not for nothing the two biggest brands in Israeli wine, are not Carmel and Barkan, or Yarden and Castel, but Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The bias goes back to the very beginning. 

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THE WILD INTELLECTUAL

I had seen wines around with the brand name ‘Oblass’ on the label and was curious. Wine lovers were mentioning them in passing, and some people I respect in the industry were listing them. It bothered me that I, who was meant to be up to date, had not come across the wines. I decided to investigate and invited Zlil Oblass for an interview.

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ALREADY OVER 40 YEARS

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FORTY YEARS OF QUALITY, INNOVATION AND AUTHENTICITY

The Golan Heights Winery taught the Israeli wine industry about state-of-the-art viticulture and New World winemaking technology. It also taught the wine trade about marketing a quality product of prestige and value. This included selling an image rather than just cases of wine, and emphasized the importance of wine education, professional wine service, gastronomy and wine tourism as integral parts of the overall effort. This was a revolutionary message in Israel at the time. Up front, above all else, was the concept of success through people. The winery understood it was part of the people business, not just the wine business. After all, everything is personal in the end. Whether it was co-opting growers to grow wine, creating a sense of family at the winery, moving closer to the end customer or maintaining positive relationships with retailers and sommeliers, the Golan Heights Winery was the first to teach the industry that the personal approach is how it is done.

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A LAND OF FISH, OLIVE OIL AND WHITE WINE

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NATIONAL BARBEQUE DAY

It has been a horrible year for Israelis and Jews worldwide. Demons that we thought were at bay have come out of the woodwork to ruin the horizon. The loss and pain have been so great in the House of Israel, that it is difficult to carry on as normal. However, some days demand a spirit of togetherness which creates a sense of enjoying the moment and looking forward. 

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WINE EDUCATOR MEETS WINE ENTREPRENEUR

At Terravino 2024, Israel’s leading international wine and spirits competition, I was awarded the Terravino Lifetime Achievement Award. The person who rang me to give me the news was the Terravino creator, owner and manager, Haim Gan. In my acceptance speech, I said I looked forward to being present when Haim Gan himself received his Lifetime Achievement Award. The chances of him awarding himself this prestigious prize is pretty remote, so I thought I would least record for posterity his extraordinary career. This is someone I have known for more than thirty years, so I am well placed to tell the story of his contribution to Israeli wine. 

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PASSOVER IN AN ANNUS HORRIBILIS

To quote the late Queen Elizabeth II, the Jewish year of 5784 has so far been an annus horribilis for Israeli wine. Now Passover is upon us. The first since that black day October 7th, which changed everything for the worse.  Passover is the main wine selling season in the Jewish year (like Christmas elsewhere.) It is arguably the most famous Jewish festival. Jews and Israelis all over the world, whether religious or secular, will sit down with their family, and tell the story of the Exodus from Egypt to the Promised Land. It is known as the Festival of Spring, the First Harvest Festival, The Festival of Unleavened Bread and The Festival of Freedom. Passover is the essence of the Jewish story, emerging as an independent people, and returning to the Promised Land. It is also the Festival of Wine!

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LIFE GOES ON

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SPIRIT OF JERUSALEM

Bennett Kaplan is tall, straight talking and charismatic, with a quick sense of humor. He is well rehearsed and charming, but knows his stuff and is interesting to talk to. He is an idealist, a deep thinker and has a fascination in how things work. He is also a big shot business man, of the type you normally hear about, but do not see that often.

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THINKING & DRINKING

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THE GOLDEN TOUCH

I first met Sam Soroka in 2003 at a restaurant in Bordeaux. We were there for the large Vinexpo wine exhibition. David Ziv then the creative, innovative CEO of Carmel Winery was determined to shake away the cobwebs of the old Carmel Mizrahi. He opened a boutique winery within Zichron Ya’acov Wine Cellars, also Yatir Winery at Tel Arad in the south, and Kayoumi Winery, a grape receiving station at Ramat Dalton in the north. He appointed Peter Stern, the legendary wine consultant of the Golan Heights Winery for twenty years, to advise Carmel and strove to infuse the winemaking at Rishon Le Zion and Zichron Ya’acov Cellars with new talent.

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60 YEAR OLD CHILD

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WINEMAKERS OF THE WORLD UNITE

One of the problems we have in our region, is that everyone hates the other. Deeply. It is a hate and mistrust that has been nurtured, matured and aged for generations. Families have inherited the prejudice with their mother’s milk. I am reminded of Moshe Dayan’s eulogy of Roi Rothberg from Nahal Oz from nearly 70 years ago. Not much has changed. They do not see our story and suffering, and I must be honest, we do not see theirs. An eye for an eye makes the whole world blind. It is not just us, our whole Eastern Mediterranean region, is divided by religion and centuries of war. The Greeks and Turks have deep issues. Their disputes are even older than ours. Cyprus is still a divided country. As for us, our relations with our neighbors have been on a downward spiral, especially since Hamas took over Gaza and Hezbollah high jacked Lebanon. Hezbollah and Hamas now set the tone. Optimism is out of the window. 

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the jerusalem post

THE SOMMELIER ENTREPRENEUR

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ARTICLES

START-UP SOMMELIER

One thing has become apparent since October 7th. We have an inordinate number of security experts. Turn on the television any time from 7.00 in the morning to 23.00 at night, on any channel, and we see a panel full of experts spouting their theories and criticisms with absolute confidence that only they understand. In fact the number of experts is in a direct inverse proportion to the depth of the astonishing and catastrophic failures of that black Shabbat day. So many experts yet where were they when all systems failed? Over confidence, complacency and incompetence were incredibly rife for a country with so many experts. I would find it amusing if it was not so desperately sad.

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ARTICLES

MATCHING THE VARIETY TO THE REGION

If I was asked to name two characteristics of Israeli wine, I would point out the sheer diversity and variety. Israel, though tiny, has a number of different terroirs and microclimates, like many long, narrow countries, for example Italy and Chile. The differences in the growing regions ensure Israel has an unusually long harvest, from mid-July until the end of October. Our wine revolution is forty years old. Maybe it is time to consider what grows well where.

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the jerusalem post

HORSES FOR COURSES

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the jerusalem post

PLANTING HISTORY

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A CREATION OF TWO CONTINENTS

By Kobi Klaitman

Translation of article published by Ish Anavim – Grape-Man, 25.01.2024

There are moments when you can sense the presence of an important person.  One who does things not only because it is his job, but also out of a sense of mission. An understanding, that he is the right person for the task. Maybe Zionism is the reason. However, when I sat down to interview Adam Montefiore, apart from the charm of his British accent, I thought that if Israel was still a British colony, he would probably have been made Sir Montefiore a long time ago.

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the jerusalem post

A BEER WITH A SOUL

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BACK TO THE FUTURE IN A GRAPE PIP

September was a long time ago. Since then, our world has been changed forever by the Simchat Torah massacre and the war that followed. It was 24 hours that turned our world upside down. For those of us living in a wine bubble, we were forced to face an unpalatable truth: wine could not be more unimportant. Suddenly topical wine articles were no longer required. The wine writer was redundant. So, I have waited until now to write about something very exciting that happened before October 7th

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the jerusalem post

175 YEARS AND STILL GOING STRONG

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the jerusalem post

LESS IS DEFINITELY MORE

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ARTICLES

BEER STORY FROM LONDON TO RA’ANANA

This is a beer story from London to Ra’anana, via Rishon Le Zion and Petah Tikvah. I started my career in the beer industry working for Bass Charrington, who were brewers, pub owners, hoteliers and vintners. The group was the largest brewer in Great Britain and the largest pub owner. Bass Hotels & Resorts later became the largest hotelier in the world for a while, and Bass Charrington Vintners were owners of Chateau Lascombes of Margaux, the Bordeaux negociant Alexis Lichine and Hedges and Butler, a three-hundred year-old shippers of wines and spirits, with cellars under Regent Street. Bass from Burton-on-Trent and Charrington, from Mile End, London, were historic breweries themselves, both being founded in the 18th century. The red triangle of Bass was the world’s oldest registered trademark. However, the joint company broke up in 2000, when they decided to focus on hospitality rather than brewing. Mitchell & Butlers, itself dating from the 19th century, is today one of the leaders in pub, bars and restaurants in the UK. The hotel company was renamed Six Continents and is today known as the InterContinental Group. Bass Charrington is no more, forgotten by many. The iconic Bass Ale is still made. It was made immortal by Edouard Manet’s painting “A Bar at the Folies Bergere.’ However today it is owned by Anheuser Busch – InBev. I worked for 13 years for the group. It was owing to their broad interests that I was able to move from beer to wine and from pubs to restaurants and hotels, as my career changed direction and I became an active member of the wine trade. 

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WINE WITH A SENSE OF PLACE

Wine is an unimportant diversion in these black days, but for those who live in the wine bubble, growing vines, caring for vineyards and making wine, brings us back to a sense of normality, with the feeling “life must go on.” The longevity of some wineries in their relationship with the land, producing some of Israel’s finest products, is a reassuring sign of continuity. Not for nothing is wine considered Israel’s finest ambassador. Recently Israeli wine has celebrated some important anniversaries. Domaine du Castel celebrated 30 years, Golan Heights Winery 40 years, Binyamina Winery 70 years, Carmel Winery 140 years and Zion Winery 175 years. Soon Tishbi and Dalton wineries will reach their thirty-year anniversary.

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ARTICLES

175 YEARS OF JERUSALEM FAMILY WINERY

The anti-Israel rabble that seems to be a coalition of Muslims, crazy left wingers and ignorant do-gooders, claim that Israel are colonists and that they are committing genocide. Even the ‘woke’ movement are prepared to ignore the rights of the LGTB movement or women as far as Hamas is concerned. Jew-hate overrides all. They give a pass to the lack of human rights in places like Turkey, and the massacre of Muslims that has taken place in Syria, simply because Israel and Jews are involved. It tears the mask from their supposedly moral stance. Their slogans and demonstrations seem to be saying that all Palestinians are Hamas and all Jews are Zionists. Most disappointing the enlightened woke world accept the fundamentalist, violent, barbaric Hamas as representing them. One would expect intellectuals to say “we support the Palestinian people, but the brutality of Hamas was not in our name.” No, the hatred of Jews overrides facts, common sense, morality, everything. They do not want a two-state solution. They seek a final solution, with Israel wiped off the face of the earth. From the river to the sea. Their stand says more about a collapse of morals in Europe and the western world than it does about us. It is an overlooked fact that the actions of Hamas and the blind, unconditional support exhibited by their supporters has damaged the Palestinian cause beyond their understanding. Though we live in a post truth world, the facts tell a different story. The Jewish connection to Jerusalem goes back 3000 years. Long before the words Muslim or Islam were even invented. Furthermore, the Palestinian population is growing very fast. How this equates to the genocide claim beats me. 

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the jerusalem post

PUT AN ISRAELI WINE ON YOUR TABLE