Adam S. Montefiore
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EAST MED INFATUATION

My personal infatuation has always been with the wines of the Eastern Mediterranean. I believe the Eastern Mediterranean is one of the most interesting and fast developing wine regions. The wines of Lebanon and Israel are so different, yet complimentary. The wines of Cyprus, Greece & Turkey are more exotic because of the prevalence of all their indigenous varieties. There is something intoxicating about the high-altitude vineyards, poor stony soils and Mediterranean climate that make this region a wine haven. Certainly, it is a winemaking paradise and the wines have improved no end.

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the jerusalem post

Five arrows, three Rothschilds, one champagne

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THE KOSHER FLYING WINEMAKER

Menahem Israelievitch is the flying winemaker of the kosher world. A Michel Rolland (the world’s most famous consultant winemaker) with a kippa if you like. He makes wine in three countries, mainly France but also Spain and Portugal, with a smile, a great nature, but also with a passionate desire to make the best kosher wine possible. I have noticed he has a special quality; He is never satisfied with doing the minimum when he can do the maximum. Not a bad attribute for a winemaker. He runs his empire, producing roughly 500,000 bottles a year for Royal Wine Europe, which is the French wine making arm of the Royal Wine Corp. / Kedem, which revolutionized kosher wine over the last 35 years. Much of Menahem’s work is from the car and his cell phone is the dashboard through which he communicates, organizes, and makes wine at some of the most famous wineries there are. He has five regular workers and employs up to forty during harvest.

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KOSHER WINES NOT SWEET, COOKED & UNDRINKABLE!

The image of a food product with the word ‘Kosher’ used to describe it, is enhanced. However, with regard to wine, the connotation is usually negative. People think this must mean the wines are sweet, oxidized, cooked and undrinkable. This mistaken perception could not be further from the truth.
Kosher food and wine are necessary for Jews who observe the Jewish Dietary Laws. The word ‘Kosher’ means pure and is used in slang to describe something that is considered all right, okay or authentic.
You will know a product is Kosher from a small abbreviation or stamp on the tin or package. Many of the most famous food and beverage brands are kosher. The regular consumer will not be aware of this or even care, as it does not affect the quality of the end product.

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ISRAELS FINEST AMBASSADOR

A special wine is not just a drink and a dry tasting note. It is also a memory and an emotion. I have memories that have accompanied me throughout my career, with one wine above others: Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon. As a buyer, representative, competitor and wine writer, I have experienced this wine in different seminal moments of my wine life.
Earlier this year, the Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon 2014, won a Gold Medal at the International Wines and Spirits Competition (IWSC) in London. It was a praiseworthy result not only because Gold Medals are exceedingly rare for Israel at the IWSC, but it also proved a reminder of an event thirty one years ago that signaled the rise of Israeli wine for the first time. Then an unknown Israeli wine called Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon 1984, made by an equally unknown Golan Heights Winery, won not only the Gold Medal but also the Winiarski Trophy. This was the first major award for an Israeli wine and the first outward sign of a wine revolution in Israel.

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A MAN, A PLACE AND HIS WINE

This article appeared first time in the Jerusalem Post.
The Negev Desert in ancient times was a wine center of some repute. In the days of the First Temple, there was sparse Jewish populations there. As Jews have done throughout history, they also made wine. A pottery shard recently found at the military garrison of Tel Arad conveyed the important message “If there is wine, send quantity.” This was dated 2.600 years ago! Wine was needed for refreshment. It was in demand for the thirsty, as it was safer to drink than the water, which carried diseases. Wine had status, it was used for medicinal purposes, for dyeing, and it was a useful source of nutrients and calories. It was also a valuable currency. However, the peak of winemaking in the Negev was not at the hands of Jewish winemakers. It was the Nabateans who tamed the desert.

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A LAND OF MOUNTAIN VINES, SEA & SUN

The Eastern Mediterranean gave wine culture to the world, yet made terrible wine for 2,000 years, but in the last 15-20 years has undergone an exciting wine quality revolution. It is now a modern, dynamic,   exciting wine region, in one of the oldest wine growing regions on earth. The wines of Lebanon and Israel have been the ones leading the charge, and lately Turkey has had a great deal of attention for its indigenous varieties. Even a Syrian wine has been widely praised. Cyprus would seem to have been left behind in the noise stakes, but there, there have also been exciting changes, wine wise.

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MW?s VISIT TO ISRAEL

As a first, Israel has recently hosted a delegation of twelve Masters of Wine, who came to Israel to learn about Israeli wine. This was arguably the most prestigious wine visit to Israel since Baron Edmond de Rothschild first arrived in 1887! The Institute of Masters of Wine is the parent body that administers the Master of Wine program. There are only 370 people on planet earth certified as Masters of Wine, who are permitted to put the letters MW at the end of their name. When you consider the number of winemakers, sommeliers, wine buyers and wine critics there are, you can appreciate that to be a Master of Wine is to be the cherry on the top of the cake. They form the crème de la crème and carry the utmost respect of the community of all wine professionals. They represent the pinnacle of our industry.

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ROTHSCHILD?S KOSHER COMMITMENT

In 1986, in a giant step for quality kosher wine production, Baron Edmond de Rothschild, the grandson of the Hanadiv – ‘the Known Benefactor’, insisted on producing the first quality Bordeaux wine for Jews observing kashrut. This was a milestone in kosher wine production, because the Rothschilds were always regarded like the royal family of the Jewish community. The original Baron Edmond de Rothschild had founded a modern wine industry in Israel. Furthermore, the Rothschilds were not only famous in the world of finance, but were also arguably the most famous wine family in the world.

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HOLY LAND VARIETIES

For Israelis embarrassed that all we have is international grape varieties like every other wine producing country, we now have some new local varieties that are creating a noise amongst the wine intelligentsia.
First there was a tasting of Israeli wines by Jancis Robinson MW. Surprisingly, the best scoring white wine was a Hamdani Jandali blend from Cremisan Monastery. Then Recanati Winery came out with a white wine called Marawi. It gained worldwide attention. Now wineries like Feldstein, Jezreel Valley, Gvaot have also come with wines from varieties like Dabouki and Jandali. It is a new world…or rather an old world.

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KINGS OF XINOMAVRO

Greek wine is now showing itself in Israel for the first time. A few Greek restaurants have opened and good relations between the countries means that Greece has become a must go to country for Israeli tourists. Even Maia Winery, a small boutique winery in Israel, has employed one of Greece’s most famous sons, Yannis Paraskevopoulos of Gaia Winery as their wine consultant. In other words, Greek Israeli wine relations are warming up!
The main Greek white wine varieties are the Assyrtico, Malagousia, Moschofilero and Roditis. The dominant reds are Agiorgitiko and Xinomavro. It is a whole new world for those tired of Cabernet, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay!

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BLESSED BE THE VINE

Sometimes in Israel we are very insular and only see our own. Occasionally it is good to look in the corners and not always look in the mirror. Christian winemaking is alive and kicking and in the Arab sector, not often associated with fine wines, there are some individuals and families making some very good wines with individuality and passion.
Nemi Ashkar seems like a typical Israeli, even part of the crème de la crème. He is a hi-tech veteran who has worked for major companies like IBM, HP and Unilever in senior management roles. He loves wine and comes from a place where making wine was part of the routine of home life. A period in Silicon Valley introduced him to the culture of Californian wine and the quality of Napa Valley. He thought I can do that and returned to found his own winery. He built a winery in the cellar of his three floor house.

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MEET THE MAYOR ? A GREEK TREASURE

Yiannis Boutaris is a giant of Greek wine and one of its most enduring icons. He was arguably the most prominent figure of the Greek wine revolution and a pioneering figure, whose search for quality and authenticity was followed by many others. The move to regionalization, the idea of becoming wine growers instead of solely producers, the focus on indigenous varieties and the pursuit of quality were all moves he initiated. He believed in the importance of wine tourism and the concept of advancing the Greek wine brand and his efforts were echoed by the Greek wine industry as a whole.

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SPARKLING NEW YEAR?S EVE

New Year’s Eve is party time. It is the time to celebrate the end of the year and the optimism and hopes for the New Year. There is one wine that symbolizes happiness, success and celebration above all others and that is, sparkling wine. However the word sparkling wine means different things to different people. The range of wines and the variation in prices is enormous. They range from the prestige cuvees in Champagne , made by the ‘traditional method’ to the cheapest sparkling wine, made by what I call the Coca Cola Method.
In Israel it appears we like sparkling wines. They have become very popular here. The number of imported sparklers, mainly Cava from Spain or Prosecco from Italy, has increased dramatically. In fact anything with bubbles is ‘in’. In restaurants and bars throughout Israel, people are ordering Cava, which has become the Israeli slang for any sparkling wine.

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FRENCH REVOLUTION

The first French Revolution in Israeli wine came at the end of the 19th century when Baron Edmond de Rothschild founded a modern wine industry. He was a Paris banker and winery owner and he invested millions in planting vineyards in the 1880’s and building wineries with deep underground cellars in the 1890’s. He used French administrators, the most experienced French agronomists and French winemakers. The accounts were kept in French and the wine growers cooperative he set up was even registered in French: Société Cooperative des Grandes Caves. So undoubtedly the Israeli wine industry was revived after 2,000 years owing to French finance and French expertise. Israeli wine was built on French roots.

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EXCUSE FOR A CHEESE & WINE PARTY

The Festival of Shavuot is a good opportunity to drink wine with cheese and it has become known in Israel as the white wine festival. When I came to Israel in 1989 most of the wine drunk was white wine. Since the early 1990s, we then became a red wine drinking country because of a number of reasons. Firstly, there was the influential 60 Minutes television program claiming that drinking red wine was healthy. Secondly improved winemaking techniques enabled wineries to make entry level red wines like white wines. Fruity, without astringency, with a good refreshing acidity. Thirdly a more sophisticated wine loving public simply began to choose red.

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WINE LABEL ARTIST

In all the fluff surrounding wine, it will surprise many to know that the label is actually quite modern. The use of a glass bottle, wooden barrel or cork are far older. This is not to say that information about wine was not in demand. The Ancient Greeks and Romans were not beyond giving details of what the wine was, who owned it and where it was grown, but this was on amphorae not bottles.

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WHAT A JUBILEE!

Seventy years of the State of Israel and seventy years of Israeli wine. This has included thirty-five years of wine mediocrity and thirty-five years of exciting development. We went from a time when Alicante was the most planted grape variety in the 1950’s, to four decades of dominance by Carignan until today, when Cabernet Sauvignon is the most planted variety. When the State of Israel was founded over ninety percent of our vineyards were planted in the coastal regions including the valleys surrounding the southern Mount Carmel and the central plain, the Judean Plain and Judean Foothills. Now the vineyard concentration has moved northwards to the Galilee and Golan Heights and eastwards to the Judean Hills rising towards Jerusalem. I will attempt to divide our wine story into decades and select a wine and the person who contributed most.

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A PURSUIT OF EXCELLELLENCE

How time flies. Difficult to appreciate that Domaine du Castel has already passed its 25 year anniversary. The winery has been the pin up of Israeli wine, showing Israeli wine at its best. Yet it started more or less as a hobby, only developed into a business almost by accident, and then went on to act as a figurehead for the whole Israeli wine industry. It is now not an exaggeration to say Castel has become a national treasure.

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the jerusalem post

70 years of Israeli wine!

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A SWEET NEW YEAR

It may be the quality red wines which receive all the plaudits. These are arguably the wines that Israel makes best and the critics love to write about them. Thankfully white wines are making something of a comeback. Wine lovers are realizing they are more versatile with food and are more rewarding in our climate. We are making some very good white wines these days.  However, people often forget that Israel is also getting a name for producing wonderful dessert wines.
Unfortunately most Israelis are damaged by a lifelong association with Kiddush wine for Friday Nights, Festivals and Seders. So they associate sweet wine with simply the worst wine, often tasting like sugared water and with religious ritual. Therefore the very word ‘sweet’ has connotations of a cheap and nasty. It is something which is to be avoided, at all costs.

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the jerusalem post

A journey from Palwin to Lafite

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PASSOVER WINES

Passover is here again. I have for a long time associated Passover with wine. For me it is the Festival of Wine, not the Festival of Unleavened Bread or Festival of Freedom. To taste four glasses, potentially four wines, and be a good Jew at the same time is very tempting. It is like having the best of two worlds.

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NEW START AT BARKAN

At some wineries, managing directors seem to change all the time. At others, they make an impact over decades. At Carmel & Binyamina for example, the managers seem to change with the seasons. At others, like Teperberg and Barkan, the same managers were in control for many years. Moti Teperberg has been CEO of Teperberg Winery for over 30 years and Shmuel Boxer was CEO of Barkan Winery for 26 years. At the turn of the century a number of new wineries sprung up with large investments and great potential. Wineries like Clos de Gat, Flam and Recanati flourished, whilst others like Amphorae and Ella Valley struggled with regular changes of ownership and managers respectively. The reason is the quality of management which is as important to a winery’s success as a viticulturist and winemaker.

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WINEMAKER IN A SUIT

There are very few truly specialist positions in the wine trade. Firstly, there is the viticulturist, an agronomist specializing in wine grapes. Then there is the winemaker, ‘the chef’, turning the precious grapes into even more precious wine. We should not forget the educators, buyers, writers and critics, each of whom has a measure of expertise. Finally, last but not least, there is the sommelier, a professional wine waiter and so much more, who is the front man when wine is opened and enjoyed.

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THE WHITE SAUVIGNON IS BACK

The first varietal Sauvignon Blanc in Israel, was produced by Carmel Winery in the 1960’s and the first Israeli Sauvignon Blanc exported was Carmel’s in the early 1970’s. The first wine from the Golan Heights Winery to gain notice in America, with headlines such as: “Israel’s first world class wine” was not their award winning Yarden reds, but their Yarden Sauvignon Blanc 1983!

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WINE & DINE

Eating out with family, friends, food & wine is my favorite pastime. If there is a family celebration or just a need to break the routine, I do not hesitate and would rather book a restaurant than almost anything else. Many people are more likely to drink wine at a restaurant than at home.
Wine is made to be enjoyed with food and good company. It is not made to be tasted in formal tastings, at winery visitors’ centers, at festivals or exhibitions. It is simply at its best in the restaurant situation with the ambiance and service thrown in. Wine, food & friends is a Holy Trinity, like a three legged stool. If one leg is missing, it all collapses.

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RESIDENT OF SHFAYA IN ISRAEL

When I arrived in Israel, there were just ten wineries. The winery boom was ahead of us, and the boutique winery explosion that was to take place was still to begin. However the first person to set this off was an unassuming, quiet farmer wine grower called Yonatan (Jonathan) Tishbi. He founded his winery against the odds, withdrawing from the cooperative of the largest winery in the country. That he succeeded was admirable and he came to be the forerunner of the revolution that was to follow. However the Tishbi family story lasts over 130 years, so we have to go right back to the beginning and then bring the story up to date until today.

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PEOPLE, WINES & MEMORIES

I began my career in the wine, beer and spirits trade long ago in 1976, before moving exclusively to wine in the 1980’s. During nearly all this time I have worked for Bass Charrington and Bass Hotels in England, and for the Golan Heights Winery and Carmel Winery in Israel. I left Carmel in 2016 after fourteen years with them and also resigned as chairman of Montefiore Winery in 2017. Suddenly for the first time I find myself truly independent. Having just reached my 60th birthday and with the dawn of a New Year, it seems appropriate to look back at the people, the wines and the memories that have been inspirational for me. Allow me to indulge myself.

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WINE OF CELEBRATION

This article first appeared in the Jerusalem Post Magazine.
Sparkling wine is the wine of fashion, partying and celebration. Whether on New Year’s Eve, at a wedding or at a birthday, it remains the classic wine to make a toast with. It is also symbol of success and happiness. Though it is a style of wine that has taken Israelis time to learn to appreciate, sparkling wines have become very popular here. The number of imported sparklers, mainly Cava from Spain or Prosecco from Italy, has increased dramatically. In fact anything with bubbles is ‘in’. In restaurants and bars throughout t Israel, people are ordering Cava, which has become the Israeli slang for any sparkling wine.

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AUTHENTIC ISRAELI WHISKY

The boutique winery revolution began quietly enough in 1988 with the formation of Meron Winery. It took a more substantial step when Margalit Winery came on the scene in 1989. These are often referred to as the first boutique wineries. However what was new was the term boutique. There have been small domestic wineries in Jewish communities forever and in the mid 19th century, before Carmel, there were many, particularly in Jerusalem. The reason only two are remembered, (Shor & Teperberg), is because they were the only ones to survive. However undoubtedly in the 1990’s a boutique winery boom began led either by growers, who decided to reserve some of their fruit for their own use or hobby winemakers, who decided to take it all a little more seriously. This boom shows no sign of abating even now.

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PARTICIPATION SPORT

Only a few weeks ago, the Israeli wine was proud to host Jancis Robinson MW, one of the world’s leading wine critics, writers and communicators. She tasted Israeli wines as she would the wines of any other countries and referred to Israel as an Eastern Mediterranean California. She tasted kosher and non-kosher wines and it was not important for her to know which was which. For her, the kosher certification was irrelevant. She was tasting wine.

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EXPENSIVE OR NOT?

Mention the price of Israeli wines and there will surely be an argument between consumers who are tired that consumer goods always seem so expensive in Israel, compared to elsewhere, and wineries that do the best they can.  Anyone visiting the world’s largest wine producing countries, will be struck at how inexpensive the wines are in the local tavern or bar. The argument that “Israeli wines are so expensive” is regularly made.  The question is whether it is true.

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JANCIS IN TOWN

Jancis Robinson MW, the English wine critic and wine writer, visited Israel for a private visit but also found time to taste Israeli wines.  She came here in great secrecy. Only a few were in the know. Her husband is Nick Lander, the famous food critic and author of The Art of the Restaurateur, one of the best books on the subject I have read. When he wrote an article about the paradox of finding so much Burgundy in Tel Aviv restaurants, there was a facebook backlash against the sommeliers who hosted her. How dare they show her anything else other than Israeli wines! Little did the talk back critics know that an impressive tasting had been prepared by the same sommeliers, offering what they considered the finest of Israel.
The tasting was put together by the Aviram Katz, the sommelier of Basta Restaurant, who is also the wine critic for Time Out & Al Hashulchan, with the help of fellow sommeliers Uri Caftory, owner of Garrigue Restaurant, Shira Tsiddon, sommelier of the Norman Hotel and international sommelier, WSET educator, wine consultant and author of the New Israeli Wine Guide, Gal Zohar. They selected 55 wines from no less than 40 different wineries covering nearly every possible category, (excluding sparkling wines & dessert wines) and they were divided into flights of four to six wines. This was a great feat of organization. The tasting was held at the Norman Hotel in Tel Aviv, whose wine list, won the award as Israel’s finest and I was pleased to have the opportunity to participate.

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THE BLUE NUN PHENOMENON

At Rosh Hashanah, the Jewish New Year, we eat sweet foods along with apple and honey, and hope for a ‘sweet year’. So I usually recommend sweet wines to go with the festive meal. As the focus is on sweet, I can’t help but pay attention to the startling rejuvenation of a famous brand in Israel. I also consider afresh the large market for sweet wines, which appears to be hidden from view from many so called experts in the wine business.

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THE WINE OF THE MEDITERRANEAN

Picture the scene. You are sitting at a table overlooking the sea. In front of you are mezze, a wonderful variety of small plates of hors d’oeuvres. A glass of Arak clouded by the addition of water is drunk as an aperitif and then a rosé wine is brought to drink with the meal. You could be in virtually any country in the Eastern Mediterranean or Levant. You could even be in Tel Aviv or Jaffa Port. Mezze, arak, sun and sea are symbols of the region……and rosé is a wine that just reeks of the Mediterranean. It probably symbolizes the atmosphere, climate and food culture as well as any other wine.

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THE WINE PHOTOGRAPHER

The wine communicators are a rare breed of people who convey the story of wine with all the color and emotion that make this such a special product. The communicator may be a wine critic who tastes wine for a living and writes flowing tasting notes and rates wines. It could be the wine writer who paints a tapestry in colorful prose bringing the wine trade to life or the wine journalist, who comes into our living room with the daily newspaper. Maybe the wine educator whose raison d’être is to teach, explain, enthuse and lead to new horizons, or even the winery marketer who is there to convey the magic of a specific product or brand for commercial reasons.

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MT. CARMEL RISING

When Baron Rothschild founded a modern Israeli wine industry, his agronomists chose the valleys surrounding the southern slopes of Mount Carmel. This is the so called mountain range that runs south from Haifa to Zichron Yaacov. Thus the first vineyards were planted in Shefaya and the Hanadiv Valley, near Zichron, but also in areas such as inyamina, Givat Ada, and Givat Nili.

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THE OLIVE OIL FESTIVAL

This Chanukah why not light your Menora (Chanukiah) using olive oil to celebrate the existence of this elixir, and while you are at it, give your host a special bottle of Israeli olive oil as a gift? Wine is well covered by Jewish festivals and lifestyle events. There is no lack of opportunities in the Jewish year to say the blessing over wine and enjoy a few glasses and feel righteous at the same time. Chanukah though is a festival that I am at a loss to decide which wine to write about, which is great, because it gives me an excuse to write about olive oil, and it really is the festival of olive oil!
I personally feel the olive and the vine are Siamese twins. They are ever present all over the Mediterranean, certainly  no less in the Eastern Mediterranean, but also may be found everywhere in Israel. The beauty of every Israeli landscape contains vines standing up like soldiers or the shimmering green, silvery leaves of the olive tree. The look is Biblical and yet it also is contemporary.

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JEWISH SPIRIT

Without doubt, whisky has become the Jewish spirit of choice. It is astonishing how it has simply been adopted by Jews everywhere and it is a constant surprise how many whisky mavens there are within the Jewish community.

You would think Jews from Eastern Europe would be more partial to vodka and those from the Sephardim would prefer Arak, and this is true in Israel. Certainly the largest selling spirit here is vodka and Arak is the indigenous spirit most associated with our corner of the Eastern Mediterranean. However the cachet of whisky looms large, the fascination with the story, taste and complexity has overridden everything else.

What is the Jewish connection to whisky? Maybe, like Chinese food and sushi, with which American Jews are said to have a love affair, whisky has become another sort of ‘safe treyf’. Both Chinese food, sushi and whisky were considered exotic, sophisticated and almost un-Jewish! Lenny Bruce considered it another way: whereas whisky is Jewish and beer is goyish! I suppose the connection started because Jews were more comfortable drinking whisky compared to cognacs or brandies, which had to be certified as kosher because the base product was wine. The best whiskies could therefore be enjoyed without worrying about kashrut. What began as an aspirational status symbol, became the playing field for a raft of new connoisseurs.
Historically in Eastern Europe, Jews were always associated with liquor. By late on in the 18th century, it was said that 15% of Jews living in towns and no less than 85% of Jews in the country, were engaged in the manufacture, distribution or sale of alcohol! It was one of the few industries that they were permitted to take part in and Jews were abstemious enough to be unaffected by the lures of their product.
In the new country, the relationship with alcoholic drinks continued. During Prohibition in the United States many Jewish families found their foothold in the new country by bootlegging whisky. They came from an immigrant community and were hungry for success and acceptance. Bootlegging was high risk. Daring and ingenuity was required, but it was highly profitable. From such beginnings, countless Jews entered the drinks industry as distributors. The Bronfman family from Canada, created Seagram, which became the largest drinks company in the world. Chivas Regal was their greatest creation.

Today there is a very high proportion of drinks companies with Jewish roots in the wine and spirits trade, particularly in the United States. The largest distributors like Southern Wines and Spirits, wine families like Sichel and Hallgarten, and American whiskey brands like IW Harper, Heaven Hill, Jim Beam and Seagram all had Jewish roots.
Gradually whisky became the aspirational American upgrade from schnapps and vodka. Whisky became ever present on the Kiddush table for Shabbat. Now we have Kiddush Clubs. These started as informal groups that would quietly filter out of the synagogue after Haftorah reading, to enjoy an early Kiddush over some prestigious whiskies. Some Rabbis have banned them deeming them inappropriate, others have quietly ignored them, seeing it as a Shabbat attraction. Whatever the view, the Kiddush Club has become a reality and the subject of heated Rabbinical debate. The interest in whisky that started in America has spread to Jewish communities worldwide.
The thorny question of whether to bring a blended whisky or a single malt to a simcha, depends how greatly you esteem your guests. Basically, a single malt is one produced by one distillery, whilst a blended whisky is from more than one distillery. An aged or de luxe blend is one with a higher proportion of aged malt whisky in it. It is always amuses me that to skimp on the Kiddush wine is acceptable, but not to bring a quality whisky is a serious infringement on the pride and ego of the host.
To simplify matters, Glenfiddich, Glenmorangie, Macallan, The Glenlivet, Glenfarclas and The Singleton are single malts. Ballantines, J & B, Grants and Johnnie Walker Red Label are blends. Chivas Regal and Johnnie Walker Black Label are de-luxe blends.
A malt whisky should be drunk on its own or with just a splash of mineral water. This brings out the aromas like rain does on a rose.  The best glasses to enjoy it to the maximum are either a copita (Spanish sherry glass) or thistle shaped glass (also used for tasting cognac). These are perfect. The traditional wine tasting glass, similar to a copita would also suffice. If the whisky is in a rich after dinner style, like an older Macallan or The Glenlivet, say 18 years or more, I would even drink it in a brandy balloon glass.
Blended whiskies are best drunk in a whisky tumbler with ice, water or a mixer. The Americans will add ice to everything, the English will add ginger ale and the Scots will even add lemonade. Each to his own!
Scotch is made from water, yeast and barley, so there are no kosher issues with the malting, mashing or distillation process. It is maturation which is a potential problem because the whisky may be aged in used sherry or wine casks. If you disregard this because of bitul b’shishim, which nullifies the unkosher aspect, then orthodox Jews may enjoy whiskies like everyone else.
A few years ago when I worked for Carmel we sent used  wine barrels to the Bruichladdich Distillery, to make two wine finish whiskies, with a touch of Israel.  The end results were two unique and very fine whiskies.
My favorite malt whiskies are The Balvenie, Glenfarclas and Macallan (particularly when aged in sherry casks) from Speyside, Bruichladdich and Lagavulin (Islay), Springbank (Cambeltown) and Highland Park ( the Orkney Islands). As my own house pouring whisky, I am very satisfied with Johnnie Walker Black Label, an aged blend, which is a great dram. Johnnie Walker is continually producing new prestigious whiskies in the line to capitalize on the brand name of the world’s largest selling whisky. However I think there is a reason it has become so popular and continues to stand out after all these years. The Black Label represents very good value and if underrated, it is only because it is so prolific.
A few years ago I spent a week touring  Speyside with one of my sons. Then a few years later we did the same again, but this time in Islay and Cambeltown. With all the tastings we did, my personal conclusion was sometimes that the finest, best balanced malts were the 12 year old, more than the older expressions. Maybe a whisky has an optimum time to be in cask….so do not always assume you have to pay more for the rarer edition to get a superb product.
The main Jewish fetish seems to be with Scotch Whisky (spelt without an e), but there is also whiskey (with an e) produced in America (for example Jim Beam, Jack Daniels), Canada (Seagram), Ireland (Bushmills, Jameson) and Japan (Suntory). In the meantime the Jewish fascination with Scotch has reached Israel. Whereas once purchases were made solely in duty free, now prices have come down and every wine shop has a display of serious whiskies at good prices. It seems to fit perfectly the aspirational nature of Israelis, who love to conquer new subjects and show how much they know.
Excitingly there is a flowering, or rather budding, of a new artisan whiskey distilling industry even here in Israel. French Canadian David Zibell has opened the Golan Heights Distillery in Katzrin and markets his product with very stylish packaging and a great story. Winemaker Tal Pelter better known for Pelter Winery, has also bought a distillery and his early products are having rave reviews.
As far as production of a real whiskey, there needs to be time for the requisite cask aging to mature the final product. They have produced the base product, white whisky in its various forms, which does have an interest for whiskey geeks, but there is a reason why whiskey needs to age. It needs that time to acquire the taste, color and complexity.
However there is a product that qualifies as a real whiskey. It was launched only recently. The honor goes to the Milk and Honey Distillery situated exactly where south Tel Aviv borders Jaffa. The whiskey was distilled in January 2014 and then aged for the required three years (31 months in unused American oak casks and then for another seven months in ex Bourbon casks.) The distiller is Tomer Goren, who consulted with the late Dr. Jim Swan, the internationally renowned Master Distiller. The result is not inexpensive, but the product makes history and will be of interest to the curious.
So now, finally you will be able to make a Le’Haim with an authentic Israeli whiskey! Something original and innovative to take to your Kiddush Club! A great gift for someone who has everything!

Adam Montefiore has been advancing Israeli wines for over 30 years. He is known as the ‘English voice of Israeli wine’. He is the wine writer for the Jerusalem Post.
www.adammontefiore.com

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GOLAN WINE COUNTRY

All the talk of recent weeks was of the 50th year anniversary since the Six Day War and the unification of Jerusalem. This was also the 50th anniversary of the Golan Heights coming into our hands, and from a wine point of you this was by far the most seminal event.
The Golan Heights proved to be the theatre which fermented the quality revolution of Israeli wine, changing the fortunes of our wine industry forever and bringing back a golden age of Israeli wine for the first time in 2,000 years. The strategic Golan Heights became Golan wine country.

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SUCCOT WINERIES & WINES

Israel is a country that be seen, tasted and understood through its wine industry. This product made from the humble grape, represents the depth of history of both the Land of Israel and the Jewish people from the very beginnings. It also represents the dynamism, energy, creativity, technology and agricultural prowess of modern Israel. Whether your interest is history, archaeology, gastronomy, people, religion or tourism, you can follow the wine and vine and you will receive all you are looking for.

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FOUR STAR FLAM

The Flam Winery is only the third Israeli winery to achieve four stars in Hugh Johnson’s Pocket Wine Book. Domaine du Castel was the first, and then Clos de Gat.  All three are from the Judean Hills region.
Flam is not only a family winery, but each family member plays a role.  The family winery is possibly the purest form of wine production. In winemaking there is a connection between adam and adama (man and the soil), but when a family is involved the expression seems altogether more personal and individual.

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ON THE MAP

Israeli wine has undergone a number of key events which have propelled Israeli wine forward in terms of image and recognition. Now that Israeli wine is truly on the map, it is interesting to look back at the stepping stones on the way to recognition.

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the jerusalem post

It’s a woman’s world

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A “Bunch” of Israeli Wines

During the two week period preceding Rosh Ha Shannah we Israelis purchase 40% of all of the wine that is going to be sold during the entire year. It is not at all that people go on drinking binges during this time but that fine wine is coming more and more to be perceived as a part of the cultured way of life, especially when that wine is consumed in moderation, with friends and family and with meals.

As recently as twenty years ago, the vast majority of wine consumed during the holiday season was red, sweet and of a quality most charitably described as mediocre. Today, with both large and small local wineries producing wines of enviably high quality, that is no longer true, the best of Israel comparing comfortably to the better wines of France, Italy and California. Following are reviews of recently released wines, some kosher, others not, those ranging in price from NIS 48 230, all of which are worthy of our attention for the holidays or at any time of the year.

Recanati, Special Reserve, 2005: Full-bodied, dark garnet towards royal-purple, with once firm tannins now integrating nicely with spicy and vanilla-rich wood. Aged in barriques for 19 months, this blend of 84% Cabernet Sauvignon and 14% Merlot, all from the Upper Galilee, shows fine balance and structure. On first attack blackcurrant, blackberry and a hint of anise, those followed by lightly toasted, near-sweet cedar and oak along with an appealing hint of black licorice. Approachable and enjoyable now but best 2009-2014. NIS 180. Score 93. K

Recanati, Syrah, Reserve, 2005 Aged for 14 months in French and American oak, medium-dark garnet in color, with well-focused tannins and moderate spicy wood in fine balance with black cherry, wild berry and cassis fruits, those with just a hint of smoked meat in the background. At this stage the still-firm tannins hold the wine back a bit. Drink now2010. NIS 95. Score 89. K

Flam, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2006: Oak-aged for about 14 months, a full-bodied blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot. Deep garnet towards royal-purple, with soft near-sweet tannins integrating nicely with spicy wood. Intense and multi-layered, opening with cherries and raspberries, those going on to show currants and blackberries, and all on a background of brown spices. Long and generous, with the tannins rising nicely on the finish. Best 20102014. NIS 149. Score 92

Flam, Merlot, Reserve, 2006: Dark garnet, a full-bodied blend of 86% Merlot and 14% Petit Verdot reflecting generous but not-at-all exaggerated oak aging with still firm tannins and notes of vanilla and spices. On first attack black fruits, those opening to reveal raspberries and blueberries, those on a background of mocha and sweet-cedar. Give this one time and it will show fine balance between tannins, wood and fruits. Has the structure for aging. Approachable now but best 2010-2015. NIS 149. Score 92.

Flam, Classico, 2007: A gently oak-aged blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot showing currant, berry and black cherry fruits, those complemented by hints of Mediterranean herbs, tobacco and chocolate. Easy to drink, with just the right hints of complexity. Drink now-2010. NIS 79. Score 89

Golan Heights Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Yarden, 2005: Brooding dark ruby-red, full-bodied, with near-sweet tannins and spicy oak wrapped around black currants, berries, spices and a hint of dark chocolate. Look as well for enchanting hints of citrus peel and vanilla on the long finish. Fine balance and structure bode well for the future. Best 20102018. NIS 120. Score 92. K

Golan Heights Winery, Merlot, Yarden, 2004: Dark garnet towards purple, medium to full-bodied, with tannins and wood integrating nicely and showing a generous array of berry, cassis and plum fruits, those supported by minerals, sweet cedarwood and, rising on the medium-long finish, an overlay of spices and tobacco. Drink now2011. NIS 105 Score 90. K

Castel, “C”, Chardonnay, Blanc du Castel, 2007: Gold, with green and orange tints, deeply floral, full-bodied and with generous but not overpowering oak that parts comfortably to reveal a complex array of citrus peel, summer fruits, hazelnuts, vanilla and crisp minerals. Lively and complex. NIS 170. Drink now-2011. Score 90. K

Galil Mountain, Barbera, 2006: Dark, almost inky ruby towards garnet in color, with its impressive 15% alcohol content in fine balance with wood, tannins and fruit. On the nose and palate blackberries, blueberries, plums and violets supported nicely by notes of vanilla, milk chocolate and, rising on the long finish notes of black pepper. Generous, gently mouth-coating tannins and fine concentration. Drink now-2011. NIS 59. Score 91. K

Galil Mountain, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007: Dark ruby towards garnet, medium-bodied, with soft, gently caressing tannins and showing an appealing array of blackberry, blueberry and cassis, the fruits on a background that hints nicely of mint and bitter-sweet chocolate. Drink now-2010. NIS 48. Score 88. K

Galil Mountain, Merlot, 2007: Royal purple in color, medium-bodied, with silky tannins and showing a generous berry-cherry-raspberry personality, the fruits on a background of sweet peppers, Madagascar green peppercorns and mint. Nothing overly complex here but a lovely wine on its own or with a host of foods. Drink now-2010. NIS 48. Score 88. K

Galil Mountain, Shiraz, 2007: Medium- to full-bodied, with gently mouth-coating tannins and showing an appealing array of cherry, wild berry and peppery notes, all lingering nicely. Drink now-2010. NIS 48. Score 89. K

Vitkin, Cabernet Franc, 2006: A medium- to full-bodied blend of 86% Cabernet Franc and 14% Petit Verdot, reflecting its aging in new French barriques with cedar and vanilla notes, opening to reveal blackcurrants, black cherries and figs, those on a background of sourdough bread and towards the finish hints of mocha and tobacco that rise nicely. Drink now-2013. NIS 105. Score 91.

Vitkin, Carignan, 2006: My earlier tasting note holds firmly. Made entirely from Carignan grapes and developed in new 360 liter French oak casks for 15 months. Full-bodied, with firm tannins just starting to settle in, deep garnet in color and showing fine extraction. On first attack, shows primarily spicy black fruits, those yielding to “let loose” notes of mint and freshly turned earth. Warm and generous with fruits and tannins rising on the long finish. Best 20092012. NIS 90. Score 89.

Karmei Yosef, Cabernet Sauvignon, Bravdo, 2006: Dark royal-purple in color, medium- to full-bodied, showing firmly tannic and with a somewhat heavy wood influence but still maintaining overall good balance between still firm tannins and spicy wood that allows the fruits to sow nicely. On the nose and palate currants, wild berries and mint notes, those lingering nicely. Best 20092012. NIS 120. Score 90.

Karmei Yosef, Merlot, Bravdo, 2006: Blended with 15% of Cabernet Sauignon, aged in barriques for 12 months, deep garnet towards royal purple in color, with once gripping tannins now integrating nicely with spicy wood. Full-bodied, the wine opens to reveal a core of plums, blackberries and blueberries, those on a background of exotic spices and hints of chocolate and mocha that linger nicely on the palate. Drink now-2012. NIS 120. Score 90.

Dalton, Merlot, Reserve, 2005: Soft and round but well focused, opening in the glass to reveal silky tannins and a gentle touch with the wood, those supporting currant, berry, cocoa and light hints of mint and black licorice, all of which linger very nicely on the palate. Drink now2010. NIS 105. Score 90. K

Dalton, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007: Not a complex wine but very nice indeed, showing ripe and distinctive for cherry, blackberry, plum and herbal aromas and flavors framed by notes of sweet-and-spicy oak. Medium-bodied, with soft tannins and lingering nicely on the palate. Drink now-2010. NIS 70. Score 90.

Dalton, Shiraz, 2007: A distinctly New World wine, medium- to full-bodied, with generous but not-at-all overpowering oak and soft tannins in fine balance. At first sip a virtual attack of berry and plum fruits, those yielding on the palate to blackberries, peaches and an array of spices. Long and generous. Approachable and enjoyable now but best 2009-2012. NIS 65. Score 90.

Ella Valley Vineyards, Cabernet Franc, 2006: Developed in one and two-year-old barrels and blended with 5% of Merlot. Garnet toward royal-purple with green and orange reflections, with blackberry
and black cherry fruits and notes of rose petals. Opens slowly to reveal light tobacco and leathery notes, those on a background of crisp minerals. Tannins rise on the long finish to give grip to this elegant wine. Best 20092013. NIS 118. Score 90. K

Ella Valley Vineyards, Ever Red, 2006: A medium-bodied blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petite Sirah (45%, 45% and 10% respectively) developed for 12 months in barriques. Soft near-sweet tannins integrating nicely with red berries, red currants and light oak, all showing a gentle spicy note. Drink now-2010. NIS 85. Score 88. K

Sea Horse, Zinfandel, Lennon, 2006: Medium to full-bodied, this blend of 92% Zinfandel and 8% Petite Sirah shows soft and round with gently mouth-coating tannins and reflects its 16 months in American oak with moderate levels of spices and vanilla. On the nose and palate red plums, wild berries and hints of Mediterranean herbs, all lingering nicely. Approachable now but best 2009-2012. NIS 125. Score 89.

Sea Horse, Syrah, Antoine, 2006: Garnet towards royal-purple in color, medium to full-bodied, with near-sweet tannins and generous pepper from the barriques in which it developed. Opens to show appealing raspberry and cassis fruits on a light herbal and leathery background, leading to a spicy and moderately-long finish. . Drink now2011. NIS 125. Score 89.

Tabor, Merlot, Bazelet, Adama, 2006: Garnet towards royal-purple, with light spicy wood on near-sweet tannins and opening to reveal currant, purple plum and blackberry fruits, those on a background of milk chocolate and, on the finish, nice hints of mint and white pepper. Drink now2010. NIS 67. Score 89. K

Tabor, Cabernet Sauvignon, Bazelet, Adama, 2006: Deep garnet, medium- to full-bodied with hints of white pepper and vanilla from the oak in which it aged. On the nose and palate currant and blackberry fruits, those matched by notes of citrus peel, flinty minerals and, on the generous finish, hints of licorice and espresso. Drink now-2011. NIS 67. Score 89. K

Alexander, Merlot, 2005: Dark garnet towards royal-purple, with firm but nicely integrating tannins, generous spicy wood and hints of tobacco balanced nicely by a generous array of black plum, raspberry, cassis and chocolate aromas and flavors. Drink now. NIS 140. Score 89.

Alexander, Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander the Great, 2004: Blended with 5% Merlot, full-bodied and reflecting the barriques in which it developed for 36 months with firm, near-sweet tannins and generous spicy wood. Generous and long with a complex array of currant, herbal and mineral aromas and flavors but mostly for those who enjoy a great deal of New-World oak with their wines. Drink now2011. NIS 230. Score 88.

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Gamla Brut

Gamla Brut sparkling wine shows off bright yet delicate notes of orange blossoms and green apples, layered with hints of tropical fruits, wild strawberries and fresh flowers.
The flavor is crisp and clean, leaving onewith the desire for another sip.
We love popping open Gamla Brut with something to nibble on before a meal. Itsalso great with fish in general and sushi inparticular.
We recommend drinking Gamla Brut within a couple of years.

The Vintage
Most of Gamla Brut comes from the 2006 vintage. A relatively warm, dry winter preceded the 2006 season. Very low rainfall caused great worry until a cold wet April delivered enough rain to bring the seasonal total to 90% of normal. The relative cool continued to the end of July, delaying the start of harvest by about ten days. Near perfect conditions then prevailed until almost the end of the vintage when, on the 15th, the first of five October rains hit.
The precipitation (five times the October norm!) delayed to November the final 8% of harvest.

Gamla Brut is made from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in equal parts. It is produced strictly according to the
traditional method, including pressing of whole clusters and secondary fermentation in the bottle. Each bottle ages
for a minimum of one year prior to disgorging.

The Analyses
% Alc (v/v) 11.5
TA (g/l) 8.2
pH 3.02
RS BRUT

The Appellation
The Galilee (or Galil) is the most northern, and generally considered the best, appellation in Israel. The highest
quality area within the appellation is the Golan Heights (or simply the Golan), the coldest region in Israel. The
vineyards on this volcanic plateau rise from 400 meters (1,300 feet) above sea level to 1,200 meters (3,900 feet)
and receive snowfall in the winter. The Golan Heights Winery is located in the town of Katzrin, in the central Golan

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2004 Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon El Rom Vineyard

Victor Schoenfeld, Head Winemaker, Golan Heights Winery:
“The 2004 vintage yielded fruit of the highest quality, which enabled us to produce wines of exceptional quality and character. A clear expression of this quality is the production of single vineyard wines from this harvest in general, and of the 2004 Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon El Rom Vineyard in particular.”

Golan Heights Winery launched a new premium wine: the 2004 Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon El Rom Vineyard. The wine joins a line of previous single vineyard wines from this vineyard that were produced from the 2001 and 2003 vintages.

2004 is shaping up to be a particularly good vintage for the creation of excellent high-quality wines from various varieties. Victor Schoenfeld, Head Winemaker, Golan Heights Winery: “The 2004 vintage yielded fruit of the highest quality from our vineyards, which is one of the reasons Golan Heights Winery decided to produce Yarden single vineyard wines from this harvest. The 2004 Yarden Merlot Ortal Vineyard and 2004 Yarden Syrah Ortal Vineyard were our first single vineyard wines from this vintage. They are now joined by the 2004 Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon El Rom Vineyard, produced from the El Rom vineyard located in the northern Golan.”

Yarden single vineyard wines reflect the philosophy and actions of Golan Heights Winery, which focus on the in-depth study and research of the terroir of the Winery’s vineyards, and its impact on the way various varieties grow and realize their latent potential. Each vineyard and each block receive the utmost individual attention; this is done in a continuous process requiring significant investment, including the development of unique technological methods, while promoting and enhancing the Winery’s experience and creativity. All these make Golan Heights Winery the leading winery in Israel.

Previously, the following Yarden single vineyard wines have been launched:
Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon El Rom Vineyard 2001, 2003
Yarden Merlot Ortal Vineyard 2001, 2004
Yarden Syrah Ortal Vineyard 2004
Yarden Chardonnay Odem Organic Vineyard 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006

About El Rom Vineyard
2004 Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon El Rom Vineyard expresses the unique terroir of the El Rom vineyard on the Golan Heights, with its ensemble of individual characteristics relating to earth, location, temperature and more. The vineyard is located in a particularly cold area, at an altitude of 1,100 meters. At first glance, the combination of cold climate and the vineyard’s deep soil are not promising conditions for the growing of high-quality Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. However, by monitoring the vines’ growth and ensuring that the fruit is not overly shaded, the vineyard consistently produces fruit of exceptional quality.
The El Rom vineyard reflects the comprehensive long-term activities of Golan Heights Winery in the studying and understanding of the unique terroir of its vineyards’ growing region, and in its ability to realize its latent potential.

The wine
2004 Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon El Rom
The 2004 Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon El Rom Vineyard was produced from four small vineyard blocks planted from 1983 to 1985. The grapes were harvested from October 23 to October 27, 2004.
The wine aged eighteen months in small French oak barrels, of which about 70% were new.

The aromatic, intense 2004 Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon El Rom Vineyard combines ripe black fruits along with bright red fruits, all layered with hints of earth, spice, chocolate and nuances of fresh herb. Its dark color hints at the wines highly concentrated flavor and long finish.

While already easy to appreciate and enjoy, the 2004 Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon El Rom Vineyard will continue to develop over the coming years, and should remain in great drinking condition for the next fifteen years or so.

Ideal for festive meals, the wine goes well with full-flavored foods such as a roast shoulder of lamb stuffed with mixed wild mushrooms, or a well-marbled rib eye roast cooked slowly over smoky coals.

The 2004 Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon El Rom Vineyard was produced in a limited edition of 15,000 bottles.

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Tishbi Port-Style Dessert Wine

In celebration of Jonathan Tishbi’s 66 successful vintages, an exceptional special edition fortified red dessert wine.
Made from a 50% / 50% blend of Barbera & Zinfandel grapes fortified with Red Muscat brandy distilled in our Cognac alembic and sun-aged for 18 months achieving its unique style & maturity.
Full of intense color, aroma and delicate soft, spiced flavors, it’s suitable as an aperitif, and for gourmet cooking & baking. Serve well chilled.

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Pre State – 1848-1948

Wine History 1848 – 1948

In the Israel of the nineteenth century, a few small wineries were owned by Jews. These were small household presses catering mainly to local consumption and religious needs. The raw materials were supplied by the few Arab vineyards in the surrounding hills, particularly from Bethlehem and Hebron. The grapes were undistinguished and local with names like Hebroni, Dabuki and Zeitani. The vines had almost disappeared due to the law forbidding Moslem believers to drink alcohol. However, it was noted how well wild vines and olive trees adapted to the shallow soils of the hills and foothills, and the coarse sandy soils of the plains.

At the time there were moves to encourage Jews to return to agriculture so that they could become self-sufficient instead of surviving on charity and philanthropy. An Englishman, Sir Moses Montefiore, the most prominent visitor to Eretz Yisrael during this time, was one of the first to publicly urge the planting of vines and olive trees so that the Jews might learn to support themselves. In 1855 Montefiore purchased the first land intended to be used for Jewish agriculture. He drank a bottle wine every day and lived to be 100 years old an early advertisement for the healthy properties of wine !

The first recorded winery was opened in 1848 by a Rabbi Yitzhak Shor in the Old City of Jerusalem with the winery itself backing onto The Western Wall. This coincided with the third of Montefiore’s seven visits to Palestine. The Shor family stayed in the Old City for eighty years before moving to modern Jerusalem. There were many home based wine producers. Shors beginning is remembered because his descendants stayed in the business, today owning wineries such as Arza, Hacormim & Zion. The only other Old City business which has survived is a wine and spirits retailer called Efrat, which was founded by Rabbi Avrom Teperberg in 1870. They then specialized in selling wines and spirits to Christian pilgrims, but later became a small winery.

Mikveh Israel

However a more significant beginning was the founding of the Mikveh Israel Agricultural School in southeast of Jaffa. The school, under French patronage and managed by Charles Netter from Alsace, emphasized the new importance of agriculture to a Jewish community that previously avoided it. Mikveh Israel Wine Cellars, on the same site, were the first to use European varieties. Many of the new wave of immigrants who “returned to Zion” towards the end of the nineteenth century, learned the rudiments of agriculture at the school, before planting vineyards in the places where they were to settle. The agricultural school still exists on the original site, near the town of Holon, but sadly the winery is no longer operational.

With the beginning of modern Jewish settlements in 1882, the urge to return to the land intensified. The new immigration wanted to escape the pogroms in eastern Europe and to reclaim the land of their forefathers. They were idealists, unused to physical work, who went through unspeakable hardships.

In 1882 the struggling new settlers of Rishon Le Zion sought financial support from Baron Edmond de Rothschild, a Paris banker. He not only offered support but at the end of 1882 commisioned a report to check out the agricultural possibilities in what was a barren land – too sandy on the coast and too stony on the hills. One of his expert horticulturists from Palace of Versailles at this early stage recommended vineyards as being the solution.

Initially efforts were made to plant wheat and potatoes, which were dietary necessities. When it was clear this would not work, the settlers formally turned to grapes planting from cuttings received from Mikveh Israel. These experimental plantings were successful. Following this period of trial & error, the settlers started to plant more vineyards from 1884. Rothschild, who sponsored early Jewish pioneer settlements in the Land of Israel, had high hopes that viticulture would develop as the main economic basis for the Jewish villages. What they did not yet appreciate was that Edmond de Rothschild was owner of Chateau Lafite, one of the most famous wineries in the world.

Baron Edmond de Rothschild

Following Rothschilds visit to Palestine in 1887, the wine project was given a financial and directional boost. Rothschild was determined to make viticulture succeeed. He created a team of experts including Gerard Ermans, an agronomist, Professer Gayon from the Bordeaux Station of Wine & Viticulture and Charles Mortier, the winemaker and manager of Chateau Lafite. Rothschilds vision was to make a fine Bordeaux style, Israeli wine. He insisted on planting Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Cabernet Franc, against the advice of some of his managers in Israel. Cuttings were supplied from Chateau Lafite itself. In an attempt to bypass phylloxera, other cuttings were brought to Israel from Kashmir in India.

Rothschild then built large above-ground wineries at Rishon Le Zion in 1890 and at Zichron Ya’acov in 1892, and sent a Bordeaux winemaker to take charge. The first harvests were wasted due to the immense heat. Large blocks of ice, cooling spirals filled with cold water were put into the fermenting wine to reduce temperatures, but this was not successful and the wine was lost. In the end, at enormous cost, Rothschild decided to build deep underground cellars at both Rishon le Zion & Zichron Yaacov in order to keep the wine at a constant temperature. The project was begun in 1893 and finished in 1896. The wine cellars at Rishon Le Zion cost the Baron 6 million French francs and at Zichron Yaacov the cost was 5 million francs. By comparison, the purchase of Chateau Lafite had only cost the Rothschild family 4 million francs! This does not include the large investment in the vineyards. The Baron always paid a high price for grapes in order to assure the settlers a decent standard of living, and subsidized them during the frequent early disasters. The worst of these was when phylloxera struck in the early 1890s.

Rishon Le Zion and Zichron Yaacov

Rishon Le Zion, (meaning first to Zion ) was the first of the new settlements in modern Israel. The town, south of Tel Aviv, now numbers more than 250,000 people and is a far cry from the few pitched tents in the sand which can be seen in early photographs. The winery became a living symbol of Zionism and part of the history of modern Israel. The main winery building was where electricity and the telephone were first used in Israel! Later David Ben Gurion, Israels first prime minister would work there. The winery remains fully operational in the center of town to this day the oldest industrial building and the oldest winery, still in use in modern Israel!

Zichron Yaacov was a pastoral village built on the southern slopes of Mount Carmel, overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. Over the years it has still maintained its pre-state atmosphere. The name Zichron Yaacov (which is translated in memory of Jacob), was in honor of Baron James Jacob de Rothschild, Edmonds father, who bought Chateau Lafite for the Rothschild family in 1868.

Carmel Wine Company

In 1895 the Carmel Wine Company was formed to market the wines of Rishon Le Zion and Zichron Ya’acov Wine Cellars. The first export office was opened in Warsaw, followed by Vienna (1897), Berlin, London (1898) and New York (1900). The Company in Britain was known as “Palestine Wine Co.” and the main wines were called Palwin. This brand name is still used there for kiddush and sacramental wines. In 1902 the name Carmel Mizrahi was first used to denote the company marketing wines to the Near East. (Mizrahi means eastern or oriental.) Their market was then Damascus, Beirut, Alexandria, Istanbul as well as Jaffa and Jerusalem within Palestine. The root word of Carmel means Gods vineyard.

The first major award to be given to an Israeli wine was the Gold Medal presented to Carmel No.1 at the famous Paris Exhibition of 1900. Carmel shared the winners podium with some of Bordeaux most famous Chateaux ! In those days wines were known by numbers being easy for new immigrants to identify.

Formation of The Wine Growers Cooperative.

In 1906 the management of the Wine Cellars at Rishon le Zion and Zichron Ya’acov was deeded to the wine growers, who founded the “Socit Cooperative Vigeronne des Grandes Caves, Richon-le-Zion and Zichron Jacob Ltd.”. The registration of the name in French was in recognition of the Baron’s contribution.

It was already apparent that Rothschilds dream of making a fine Israeli Bordeaux style wine would not yet be realized. Yields of the classic varieties were too small for the growers and the market preferred cheaper, bulk wine and sacramental wine. So those varieties producing the biggest yields most cheaply were planted at the expense of the noble varieties preferred by Rothschild. Most of the vineyards were planted in the coastal region of Israel, around Zichron Yaacov and south east of Rishon Le Zion.

Carmel was by far the largest winery. There were other small wineries servicing their own communities. For instance wineries like Shor Brothers sold to the Ultra Orthodox Jewish community, the Templars in Sharona and the monasteries of Latroun and Cremisan sold to Christian pilgrims. There were also other wineries, like Friedman from Petach Tikvah, but none impacted the commercial control of Carmel.

The wine business expanded and sales increased particularly during the First World War, when German, British and Australian troops passed through the country. When the war was over though, the industry lost its principal markets: Russia, because of the Revolution; the United States because of Prohibition and Egypt and the Middle East because of Arab nationalism. Many vineyards were replaced with citrus groves, almonds and olive trees.

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The National Variety of Israel

It is an oddity that in Israel there are no indigenous wine varieties. There are indigenous food grape varieties like Dabuki or olive oil varieties like the Souri, but wine varieties none. It is strange because in nearby countries like Cyprus, there are numerous indigenous varieties and many of the noble varieties like Shiraz and Chardonnay are said to have originated in the Middle East.

In 1882 when Baron Edmond de Rothschild recommended the planting of grapes in Israel, the settlers originally chose hardy Spanish varieties like Bourdalou and Braquet. It appears that indigenous varieties had been uprooted in previous years.

In 1887 Rothschild visited what was then known as Palestine and initiated the planting of the famous Bordeaux varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Cabernet Franc. His objective was to make a really fine wine and he berated his officials who showed any doubts. He sent teams of experts from Bordeaux, installed a Bordeaux winemaker at the Rishon le Zion Wine Cellars and even in the early 1890’s sent the Chateau Lafite winemaker to Israel to act as a consultant to the new wineries.

However nature had other ideas. In the mid 1890’s the new Israeli vineyards became affected by phylloxera, a louse that was devastating the world’s vineyards. By that time Rishon Le Zion and Zichron Yacov Wineries realized that the market for high quality was too steep for an Israeli wine, but that there was a realistic market for inexpensive wines. Plans were changed and between 1896 and 1899. Vines were uprooted and replaced with the cruder Carignan, Grenache and Alicante. Cuttings were brought from India to avoid the phylloxera plague. These varieties, being used in the South of France, were considered more suitable for the hot, humid climate in Palestine.

The new Israeli wine industry was therefore built on Carignan and Grenache for red wines and Semillon for white wines. In the 1960’s, Carmel became the first winery to reintroduce Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc. The first Israeli varietals were exported in 1970. They were Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc, Grenache Rose and Semillon (semi dry).

Then the Golan Heights Winery was formed in 1983 and introduced to Israel the first Merlot and Chardonnay. Cabernet Franc, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Noir, Sangiovese and Viognier were to follow. Eventually most of accepted international varieties would reside in Israel.

In the 30 years between the production of Israel’s first international class wine, the Carmel Special Reserve 1976 and the release of Carmel Limited Edition in 2006, there have been a continuous stream of world class Israeli wines led by Yarden, and small wineries such as Castel, Flam, Margalit and Yatir. However nearly all of their best red wines were made from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes or based on a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Though many predict that Shiraz or Syrah will become Israel’s main quality variety in the future, Cabernet Sauvignon still rules.

In most wine producing countries of the world, there is signature variety for which a particular country is primarily known. If the left bank of Bordeaux is known for Cabernet Sauvignon and the right bank for Merlot; Burgundy means Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Australia has Shiraz, Argentina Malbec, California Zinfandel, Chile Carmemere, Italy Sangiovese & Nebbiolo, New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, Spain – Tempranillo and South Africa Pinotage. Of the smaller countries, Georgia has Serapavi, Greece – Aghiorghitiko and Xynomavro, Uruguay Tannat. What is the national grape of Israel

The international grape variety most unique to Israel is Emerald Riesling. This is a hybrid developed by the University of California in 1948 in an attempt to produce a quality Riesling in the hot climate of California. Emerald Riesling’s parents were the White Riesling (Johannisberg) and the boring Muscadelle. In fact the only place this variety succeeded was in Israel. The variety was introduced to Israel in the 1970’s and by the mid 1980’s Emerald Riesling became Israel’s biggest selling brand of semi dry (sometimes semi sweet) white wine. Emerald Riesling wines became responsible for introducing many new drinkers to wine, performing the same task as Liebraumilch in England and Lambrusco in America. However though the standing of the variety represents volume and value rather than an expression of fine wine, it is seen at its best in the Private Collection Emerald Riesling, which has far less residual sugar than is customary and is the perfect wine to accompany Asian food.

The variety most common to the Eastern Mediterranean basin is the Muscat of Alexandria, which is considered one of the oldest vines in existence. It is usually cultivated for raisins, but in Greece, particularly on the island of Samos, Cyprus, and Israel, it has long been a variety for making aromatic, sweet dessert wines. This Muscat is said to have its roots in North Africa, but its home since then has been the Eastern Mediterranean. The Yarden Muscat, Binyamina semi dry and dessert Muscats and Carmel’s Muscat of Alexandria have all won major gold medals with this variety.

The only real ‘sraeli variety is Argaman, which means deep purple in Hebrew. Argaman was a cross between the Portuguese grape Souzao and Carignan, developed by the Israel Wine Institute and the Volcani Center. It was planted in the early 1990’s with the objective developing a grape more resistant to disease and with better color than Carignan. It is today used to best effect by Barkan/ Segal as a blender for more inexpensive wines, but has not lived up to expectations.

Neither Muscat of Alexandria, Emerald Riesling or Argaman are of the quality, nor do they have the potential to create enough interest, to be described as the national varieties of Israel. White (Johannisberg) Riesling and Muscat Canelli (Frontignan) were introduced in the late 1980’s and early 1990’s respectively and producing better quality than their predecessors. Furthermore enough Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot was planted in the 1990’s to be available for use in cheaper blends. So the original Muscat, Emerald and Argaman became less important.

However there are two much abused varieties Carignan and Petite Sirah, which maybe do fit the bill to be considered as the potential national varieties of Israel. Both are undergoing a quality revival and creating a great deal of interest amongst wine lovers and connoisseurs. When produced with an eye on quality, the Carignan can produce wines which have a nose of strawberry, raspberry & cherry fruit, with good acidity and a backdrop of Mediterranean herbs & spices. Petite Sirah wines, on the other hand, will be an almost black blockbuster, with intense tannins and an enticing aroma of black fruit and violets.

Carignan is a workmanlike variety found in Spain and France. It is the largest planted variety in France, almost all of it in the Languedoc-Roussillon and Provence. It is known as Carignane in America, Carignano in Italy and Carinena or Mazeulo in Spain. In the 1990’s this variety underwent a revival in areas such as Corbieres in France and Priorat in Spain. They discovered that Carignan could produce wines of real character. The secret was to select older vines and drastically cut yields.

Carignan is also a variety prevalent in the Mediterranean basin surrounding Israel. It is prolific in Cyprus, Lebanon and Turkey. In Israel it remains the largest planted variety since being brought to Israel by Baron Edmond de Rothschild in the late 1890’s. Since those days a large number of Carignan vineyards have been grubbed up in favor of noble varieties but it still represents 20% of Israel’s vineyards. Until recently it was mainly used just for producing inexpensive wine blends, sweet sacramental wines and grape juice. Carignan was usually the worst or cheapest wine in a winery’s portfolio.

In the 1980’s the Carignans from Askalon Wines, produced by the Segal family, were some of the best regarded red wines in the country. The variety though, was mainly used a blender for wines masquerading as Cabernet Sauvignon. The breakthrough came when Yair Margalit produced Israel’s first quality Carignan in 1999. It was a one-off, with 5% Cabernet Sauvignon to provide backbone, but the first time a top boutique winery had given attention to this much maligned variety. The next pioneer was Asaf Paz, who believed in the variety and developed it both when he worked at Carmel and at the boutique winery called Vitkin.

The results of Carmel Winery’s decision to revive the Carignan grape has led to a reappraisal of Carignan by the industry. They produced an Appellation (Sidrat Eizory) Carignan from two 30 year old vineyards in the Zichron Yacov area. Instead of the usual 3, or sometimes even 4 tons to the dunam, yields were reduced to a mere 0.8 tons per dunam. (10 dunams = 1 hectare.) The wine was made from 90% Carignan and 10% Petite Verdot (from a nearby Binyamina vineyard) and was aged in French oak barrels for a year in Carmel’s 100 year old Zichron Yacov Wine Cellars. Recognition came with a gold medal at Terravino in 2006.

Petite Sirah, otherwise known in France as Durif, is another variety to be revived. It is a sometimes spelt Petite Syrah in America. It made aliyah to Israel in the 1970’s and was used for inexpensive wines. In the early 1990’s there were those who tried to mislead by marketing their Petite Sirah wines as Shiraz, which was derided because it was thought the Petite Sirah had nothing in common with Syrah. It was only in 1998, that the University of California confirmed that Durif was the result of a cross pollination between an old French grape Peloursin and Syrah. So they were related after all! In any event, Petite Sirah certainly makes distinctive wines mainly in California , Australia and in Israel.

The first time Petite Sirah was seen as a quality variety was when Yair Margalit insisted it was an essential part of the Margalit Special Reserves. He considered the 5% to 15% of Petite Sirah as an important ingredient to the success of his flagship wine. Wineries like Yiftachel, Vitkin amongst the boutique wineries and Carmel and Recanati amongst the commercial wineries have also specialized in the variety. Recanati have won awards for their Petite Sirah Zinfandel blend and Carmel’s Appellation Petite Sirah from old vines in the Judean Hills has also gained plaudits as one of the most interesting, characterful wines available.

Whatever happens to these varieties in the future will determine if they may, in future, be regarded as the national variety of Israel. The mission to revive Carignan and Petite Sirah should be supported by growers, wineries and consumers. It provides much needed variety, quality and the curious wine lover has an alternative to the all conquering Cabernet and Merlot.

Adam Montefiore

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Religious Connection

To Jews there is no communal, religious or family life without wine. Each Sabbath starts with an act of blessing, the Kiddush or “Sanctification” is chanted over a cup of wine: “Blessed are you O Lord, Our God for creating the fruit of the vine.” Most Jewish families will own a “Kiddush Cup” in the form of a silver goblet or beaker. Four glasses of wine must be drunk at Passover (or grape juice for children), two at weddings, one at circumcisions. At a funeral in ancient times a bereaved was offered ten glasses of wine, the “Cup of Consolation”. Wine is used to sanctify festivals, Bar Mitzvahs and births. At the Festival of Purim, Jews are entreated to drink enough so they are unable to tell the difference between Cursed be Haman and “Blessed be Mordechai”. Traditionally a Jewish boy will have his first taste of wine at his circumcision when only eight days old, and part of a ritual at a wedding is for the groom to stamp on and shatter a wine glass. The joy of wine is introduced to each act of worship.

For the Kiddush ceremony in the Jewish home and in synagogues, sweet red (and usually fortified) wine is traditionally used for two reasons: one, as an open bottle will last until the next week, and two, for children a sip of sweet wine is both palatable and a treat!

The association between wine, Israel and Judaism creates an unique bond between wine and the Jewish people. Also the Christian use of Altar or Communion wine, stemmed not only from the Jewish faith but also from the high profile of wine in the Holy Land at this time. Wine writer Andrew Jefford wrote in the Evening Standard Wine Guide: “The Land of Israel staggers beneath its burden of history and myth, and much of that intoxicating scripturally sanctified baggage is wine-sodden. What Christian would not like to drink the wine of Cana or Galilee after a thoughtful afternoon amongst the splintery, fissured olives of Gethsemane. What Jew would prefer a French kosher wine to one from the land which (according to the Book of Numbers) Moses spies returned bearing an enormous cluster of grapes suspended from a pole?”

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Tasting Notes from the Yoav-Yehuda Festival

By: Daniel Rogov

Yesterday afternoon (Thursday,18 Sep) I arrived at the Yoav Yehuda festival, there to start a round of tastings and re-tastings as well as to have discussions with several of the winemakers and winery owners present. Interesting to note that I found a good deal of consistency of quality with the medium-sized wineries present but with the boutique/artisanal wineries a mixture, in some cases of continued improved quality and in others continuing signs of deteriorating quality.

If there is a bit of confusing news it is that several of the smaller wineries have been using multiple labels and confusingly similar names for their wines, that making it difficult at times for potential buyers to know that they are getting. Best bet with those wineries selling primarily at the cellar door is to ask for a tasting before purchasing. Best perhaps to let my tasting notes speak for themselves.

As to bits of other news the Nachshon and Zemora wineries are most definitely hunting for buyers; La Terra Promessa has taken on a new partner and will soon be moving to a new location, there to increase production dramatically; and several other boutique/artisanal wineries have taken on new partners in order to gain funding and a better market position.

All in all, I tasted 67 wines during the course of the evening. Following are tasting notes for most of those, those in the order in which I tasted them. Nearly all of the wines tasted for the first time at this event will be re-tasted blind in my own tasting room over the course of the next few months (that is to say, before the deadline of the 2010 edition of my Israeli wine book)

Best Rogov

The White Wines

Kella David, Dry White, 2007: A dry blend of French Colombard and Emerald Riesling, showing a floral and spicy nose and flavors of citrus and tropical fruits. Nothing complex here but an appealing entry-level quaffer. Drink now. Score 82. (Tasted 18 Sep 2008)

Kella David, Semi-Dry White, 2007: Semi-dry as its label states but with minimal fruit and the distinct kind of bitterness that one associates with overly roasted coffee or nuts and only minimal fruits. A blend of French Colombard and Emerald Riesling. (Tasted 18 Sep 2008)

Tzora, Ros, Gvat HaChalukim, 2007: Showing better than at an earlier tasting. Made from Cabernet Sauvigon grapes, pale pink with an orange tint, light- to medium-bodied. Showing berry, cherry and watermelon notes, a dry wine with a hint of sweetness that creeps in. Drink now. Score 86. K (Re-tasted 18 Sep 2008)

Clos de Gat, Chanson, 2007: A blended white, the composition of which sounds unlikely, but which comes together very nicely indeed. A well-crafted unoaked blend of Chardonnay, Semillon, Viognier and Chenin Blanc (about 75%, 15%, 7% and 3% respectively). Pale gold in color with orange reflections, medium-bodied, opening with minerals and citrus fruits, those opening in the glass to reveal passion fruits and ripe melon. Long, lively and thought-provoking. Drink now2010. Score 91. (Re-tasted 18 Sep 2008)

Teperberg, Emerald Riesling, Terra, 2007: Off-dry, light- to medium-bodied, showing traditional Emerald Riesling floral and tropical fruit aromas and on the palate notes of citrus and melon. A good entry-level quaffer. Drink now. Score 84. K (Tasted 18 Sep 2008)

Castel, “C”, Chardonnay, Blanc du Castel, 2006: Showing much as at a quite recent tasting. Deep golden in color, slow to open, with aromas and flavors hidden for at least ten minutes and then showing now as in its extreme youth a somewhat generous dose of wood. On that background, notes of green apples, citrus, buttery hazelnuts, nutmeg and raisins. Full-bodied, concentrated and intense but lacking vibrancy. Drink now2009. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 18 Sep 2008)

Tzuba, Belmont White, HaMa’ayan, 2007: A light gold, unoaked blend of 55% Sauvignon Blanc and 45% Semillon. Showing appealing pineapple and peach fruits, a fresh, round and lively wine that opens nicely on the palate. Drink now. Score 87. K (Re-tasted 18 Sep 2008)

Tzuba, Chardonnay, Hametzuda, 2007: Showing much as at earlier tastings. Oaked for only three and a half months, this medium-bodied, light gold wine shows a light green tint and opens to reveal generous summer and tropical fruits on a background of lively acidity. On the finish an appealing hit of green apples. Drink now2009. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 18 Sep 2008)

The Red Wines

Zemora, Merlot, 2005: Blended with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and to my palate, as happens from time to time with Zemora, a vastkt different wine than earlier tasted. Dark garnet, reflecting its 21 months in oak with generous spicy wood and smoke, and somewhat chunky tannins that give the wine a distinct country-style. On the nose berry, black cherry and plum fruits. Drink now. Score 85. K (Re-tasted 18 Sep 2008)

Zemora, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005: Full-bodied, deep royal-purple in color, with somewhat chunky tannins and reflecting its 14 months in medium and heavy-toasted French oak with a generous, toasted cedar overlay. On the nose and palate opens to reveal blackberries, blueberries, cassis and vanilla. Developing a marked note of bitter herbs and the fruits fading on the finish. Drink up. Score 84. K (Re-tasted 18 Sep 2008)

Zemora, Blended Red, 2006: Oak-aged for 20 months, a blend of 65% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc that manages somehow to hide any varietal traits whatever. Medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins and blueberry, blackberry and plum fruits. Smooth, soft and round, a good entry level wine. Drink now. Score 84.K (Tasted 18 Sep 2008)
Zemora, Cabernet Franc, 2006: Ruby towards garnet, medium-bodied with chunky, country-style tannins. A very quiet nose and on the palate no trace of the variety but a basic spicy, black fruit personality, that with a too-heavy green vegetable overlay. Drink up. Score 82. K (Tasted 18 Sep 2008)

Zemora, Chardonnay, 2004: So help me, I cannot understand why the winery chose to display this wine at the fair, as this was one I noted in my 2007 book as already in a “drink up” condition. Dark, almost bronzed gold in color, generously oaked, medium- to full bodied, with its once pleasant tropical and citrus fruits now with a distinctly stewed flavor and showing clear signs of oxidation. Score 68. K (Re-tasted 18 Sep 2008)

Zemora, Special Reserve, 2004: A wine that has been oft-discussed because it seems so vastly different on every tasting occasion and because the winemaker has released at least three different versions of its blend. This is my fifth go-round and I breathe a sigh of release as this tasting did match my most recent earlier one. Whatever, a dark garnet wine, medium to full-bodied, with chunky, sharp-edged tannins and showing blackberry and purple plum fruits. A distinctly country-style wine. Drink now. Score 84. K (Re-tasted 18 Sep 2008)

Clos de Gat, Cabernet Sauvignon, Har’el, 2006: Dark, almost inky-garnet in color, full-bodied, with tannins that are firm on first attack but yield nicely in the glass to reveal fine balance with a genteel hand, with spicy oak, good balancing acidity and fruits. Blended, Bordeaux style, with 9% Merlot and 4% Petit Verdot On the nose and palate opens with raspberries, those then going to purple plums, blackberries and currants, all intertwined with a pleasing overlay of Mediterranean herbaceousness. Well crafted. Drink now2012. Score 91. (Re-tasted 18 Sep 2008)

Srigim, Cabernet Franc, 2005: A dark royal-purple, medium to full-bodied blend of 85% Cabernet Franc and 7.5% each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Oak-aged for 14 months, showing black fruits on an appealing earthy-mineral background. Tannins and a hint of unwanted acidity rise on the finish. Drink now. Score 84. (Re-tasted 18 Sep 2008)

Srigim, Cabernet Franc, Barrique Premium, 2005: Dark garnet, a medium- to full-bodied blend of 85% Cabernet Franc with 7.5% each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Showing spices and vanilla from the oak, opening with blueberries and currants, those going to notes of purple plums, all on a background of eucalyptus and licorice. Smooth, round and moderately long. Drink now-2010. Score 86. (Tasted 18 Sep 2008)

Srigim, Cabernet Sauvignon, Barrique, 2006: Blended with 5% Cabernet Franc, dark garnet in color and reflecting its 18 months in oak with spices and smoke. Once firm tannins now integrating nicely and opening to reveal a generous black-fruit nose and on the palate blackcurrants, black cherries and mint. On the finish an appealing hint of baker’s chocolate. Drink now-2010. Score 87. (Re-tasted 18 Sep 2008)

Srigim, Cabernet Sauvignon, Barrique, 2005: Dark royal-purple, a medium-bodied blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7.5% each of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Aged in barriques for 14 months, showing spicy and dusty oak, firm tannins and a few blackberry and currant fruits. Somewhat alcoholic on the nose. Drink now. Score 82. (Re-tasted 18 Sep 2008)

Srigim, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005: Reflecting its 20 months in oak with a rather heavy hand, the smoky wood dominating, and hiding the berry, black cherry fruits that struggle to make themselves felt. A distinctly country-style wine. Drink up. Score 79. (Tasted 18 Sep 2008)

Srigim, Petit Verdot, 2005: Dark garnet towards royal-purple, medium to full-bodied, this oak-aged blend of 85% Petit Verdot and 7.5% each Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc shows fine balance between fruits, spicy wood and acidity. Aromatic, long and mouth-filling. Drink now. Score 86. (Re-tasted 18 Sep 2008)

Yehuda, Cabernet Sauvignon, Hilah HaShiraz, 2005: Blended with 12% Shiraz and oak-aged for 18 months, a dark garnet, medium- to full-bodied wine with firm tannins integrating nicely with spicy wood. Opens to show appealing black fruits on a light leathery and earthy background. Drink now-2010. Score 85. (Tasted 18 Sep 2008)

Yehuda, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005: Showing much as at an earlier tasting. With chunky tannins, a generous dose of green vegetables and a few cherry-berry notes, a simple and distinctly country-style wine. Drink up. Score 76. (Re-tasted 18 Sep 2008)

Yehuda, Merlot, 2005: Dark royal-purple in color, medium to full-bodied, with firm tannins that seem to not want to integrate and a few berry, cherry and cola notes. Drink up. Score 75. (Re-tasted 18 Sep 2008)

Yehuda, Merlot, Soolam Ya’akov, 2005: Oak aged for 18 months, an appealing if not internationalized little Merlot. Dark ruby towards garnet, medium-bodied, with soft tannins and easy-going berry, cherry fruits. An acceptable entry-level wine. Drink now. Score 82. (Tasted 18 Sep 2008)

Katlav, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006: Deep ruby towards garnet, medium- to full-bodied, with crisp acidity, firm tannins and hints of spicy cedar and sandalwood. On the nose and palate plums, red cherries and raspberries, leading to a medium-long finish. Drink now-2010. Score 86. K (Re-tasted 18 Sep 2008)

Katlav, Wadi Katlav, 2006: Medium- to full-bodied, dark garnet towards royal purple, and oak-aged for 18 months, this blend of Cabernet Sauvigjnon, Merlot and Shiraz (60%, 30% and 10% respectively) shows still firm tannins, those integrating nicely with spicy wood and opening to reveal blackberry, black cherry and cassis fruits, those on a background of spices and earthy minerals. Drink now-2011. Score 87. K (Re-tasted 18 Sep 2008)

Katlav, Merlot, 2006: Showing much as at earlier tastings. Garnet towards royal-purple, medium to full-bodied, with soft tannins promising to integrate nicely with light oak. Showing dried currants and berries, those overlaid with spices and mint and a tantalizing hint of earthy bitterness. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 86. K (Re-tasted 18 Sep 2008)

Hans Sternbach, Nachal Hakhlil, 2006: Dark royal-purple in color, this oak-aged blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot is showing medium to full-bodied, with now soft, mouth-coating tannins opening to reveal generous red currant, red berry and Mediterranean herbs. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 84. (Re-tasted 18 Sep 2008)

Hans Sternback, Cabernet Sauvignon, Janaba, Hakhlil Valley, 2006: Made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, oak-aged for 24 months, dark garnet towards royal-purple, full-bodied with still-firm tannins holding back the fruits somewhat,. Somewhat flat on the nose but Opens to reveal flavors of currant and blackberry fruits on a spicy and lightly herbal background. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 84. (Re-tasted 18 Sep 2008)

Nachshon, Pushkin, 2006: A deep garnet, oak-aged blend of 60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Medium to full-bodied, with firm tannins that yield in the glass to reveal appealing aromas and flavors of blackberries, currants and spices. Develops an odd acetic aroma on in the glass. Drink now. Score 82. (Re-tasted 18 Sep 2008).

Nachshon, Cabernet Sauvignon, Ayalon, 2003: Made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, this deep garnet wine was aged first for 25 months in new barriques and then for an additional 12 months in old ones. Medium to full-bodied, and showing near-sweet tannins and hints of sweet cedarwood complemented nicely by spicy berry and currant fruits. Drink now. Score 87. (Re-tasted 18 Sep 2008)

Flam, Classico, 2006: Aged in French and American oak for 6 months, this full-bodied, softly tannic blend of equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot shows an appealing array of lightly spicy black currant, raspberry and black cherry fruits on a background of Mediterranean herbs. Moderately long and quite generous. Drink now2010. Score 90. (Re-tasted 18 Sep 2008)

Agur, Kessem, 2006: In the past a Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot blend but this time with the addition of Petite Verdot (50%, 30% and 20% respectively). Aged in barriques for 12 months, with soft, gently caressing tannins and an appealing overlay of spices, opens to reveal blackberry, black currant and purple plum fruits, those supported nicely by hints of earthy-minerals. Drink now-2011. Score 87. (Tasted 18 Sep 2008)

Agur Special Reserve, 2006: A medium to full-bodied blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc, with firm tannins and generously spicy wood integrating nicely to show appealing blackberry, black cherry and sweet herbs on the nose and palate. Long and generous. Drink now-2011. Score 88. (Re-tasted 18 Sep 2008)

Ella Valley Vineyards, Merlot, 2004: My earlier tasting note holds firmly. Blended with 5% of Cabernet Sauvignon, deep royal-purple towards garnet in color, a firm but round and well-balanced wine showing black cherry, black currant and spicy cedarwood, all coming to a long, smooth, round finish on which the fruits rise nicely. Drink now2011. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 18 Sep 2008)

La Terra Promessa, 2006: A very pleasant country-style wine, ruby towards garnet in color, medium-bodied with soft tannins and showing appealing wild berry, tobacco, black pepper and forest floor notes. Nothing complex here but a nice little quaffer. Drink now-2009. Score 85. (Tasted 18 Sep 2008)

La Terra Promessa, 2006: Garnet towards royal purple, reflecting spicy wood and vanilla along with soft tannins and a generous array of currant, wild berry and citrus peel, those supported nicely by hints of licorice. Drink now-2010. Score 86. (Tasted 18 Sep 2008)

Teperberg, Sangiovese, Silver, 2007: True to Sangiovese traits, showing a medium-dark garnet towards ruby, medium-bodied, with spice, anise and cedar notes highlighting currant and wild berry fruits. Not overly complex but flavorful and rich. Drink now. Score 87. K (Re-tasted 18 Sep 2008)

Teperberg, Melbec, Terra, 2007: Terra, Malbec, 2007: Nicely focused, with black cherry, currant and cocoa notes along with hints of sweet toast and vanilla. Medium-bodied, with soft tannins, most assuredly not an Argentinean Malbec but a very pleasant Mediterranean version. Drink now2010. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 18 Sep 2008)

Nachshon, Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon, Shani, 2005: Oak aged for 24 months, this medium- to full bodied blend of 60% Shiraz and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, shows chunky, country-style tannins and a few red and black fruits. One dimensional and short. Drink up. Score 82. (Tasted 18 Sep 2008)

Nachson, Alpha, 2006: A lightly-oaked blend of 60% Shiraz and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, showing soft tannins and a simple but appealing wild berry and black cherry personality. Soft and round, a good entry-level wine. Drink now. Score 84. (Tasted 18 Sep 2008)

Nachshon, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006: Made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, oak-aged for 18 months, showing medium- to full-bodied. Nothing complex here but a soft, round and generous little wine with an appealing berry, black cherry personality. Drink now. Score 85. (Tasted 18 Sep 2008)

Sea Horse, Gaudi. 2007: A blend this year of 60% Carignan and 20% each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. Medium- to full-bodied, with gentle spicy oak and comfortably gripping tannins. Developed in barriques for 6 months, opens to reveal red and black currants, those going on to generous wild berry and peppery notes. Soft, round, generous and moderately long. Drink now-2011. Score 89. (Tasted 18 Sep 2008)

Sea Horse, Take Two, 2006: This oak-aged blend of Primitivo, Zinfandel and Petite Sirah shows deep and dark, with fine intensity and generous firm tannins backing up plum, cherry and chocolate aromas and flavors, those on a medium to full-bodied frame, all leading to a long fruity finish. Drink now2010. Score 88. (Re-tasted 18 Sep 2008)

Sea Horse, Lennon, Tete de Cuvee, 2006: Think of this as a more intellectual version of the regular 2006 Lennon release, this one equally soft and round, with somewhat more gripping tannins and a good hand with spicy oak, that also imparting a note of vanilla to the wine. On the palate purple plums, red and black berries, hints of Oriental spices and Mediterranean herbs, all leading to a long and generous finish. Score 90. (Tasted 18 Sep 2008)

Ben Hanna, Cabernet Sauvignon, Shalem, 2005: My earlier tasting note holds firmly. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot (80%, 15% and 5% respectively), aged in French oak barriques for 21 months and showing soft, round and aromatic. On the nose and palate raspberry and red currant fruits on a background of herbs and mint. Long and generous. Drink now2011. Score 89. (Re-tasted 18 Sep 2008)

Ben Hanna, Mediterraneo, 2005: Deep, brooding garnet in color, full-bodied, with still firm tannins and generous spicy wood waiting to settle down, but showing fine balance and simply needing a bit of time. A blend of Grenache, Petit Verdot, Syrah and Cabernet Franc (50%, 33%, 12% and 5% respectively), aged in French oak for 22 months, opening to show a generous mouthful of black cherry, dried raspberries, eucalyptus and cinnamon. Drink now2011. Score 91. (Re-tasted 18 Sep 2008)

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Flam, Karmei Yosef & Sea Horse

By: Daniel Rogov

Flam

Three new releases from Flam, two of which were last tasted from the barrels, one of which a new tasting. What can I say other than the Flam boys continue to do it right!

Best
Rogov (http://www.wineloverspage.com/forum/village/viewforum.php?f=29)

Flam, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2006: Oak-aged for about 14 months, a full-bodied blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot. Deep garnet towards royal-purple, with soft near-sweet tannins integrating nicely with spicy wood. Intense and multi-layered, opening with cherries and raspberries, those going on to show currants and blackberries, and all on a background of brown spices. Long and generous, with the tannins rising nicely on the finish. Best 2010?2014. NIS 149. Score 92

Flam, Merlot, Reserve, 2006: Dark garnet, a full-bodied blend of 86% Merlot and 14% Petit Verdot reflecting generous but not-at-all exaggerated oak aging with still firm tannins and notes of vanilla and spices. On first attack black fruits, those opening to reveal raspberries and blueberries, those on a background of mocha and sweet-cedar. Give this one time and it will show fine balance between tannins, wood and fruits. Has the structure for aging. Approachable now but best 2010-2015. NIS 149. Score 92.

Flam, Classico, 2007: A gently oak-aged blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot showing currant, berry and black cherry fruits, those complemented by hints of Mediterranean herbs, tobacco and chocolate. Easy to drink, with just the right hints of complexity. Drink now-2010. NIS 79. Score 89

Karmei Yosef

Just officially released…

Karmei Yosef, Merlot, Bravdo, 2006: Blended with 15% of Cabernet Sauignon, aged in barriques for 12 months, deep garnet towards royal purple in color, with once gripping tannins now integrating nicely with spicy wood. Full-bodied, the wine opens to reveal a core of plums, blackberries and blueberries, those on a background of exotic spices and hints of chocolate and mocha that linger nicely on the palate. Approachable now but best 2009-2012. NIS 120. Score 90.

Karmei Yosef, Cabernet Sauvignon, Bravdo, 2006: Dark royal-purple in color, medium- to full-bodied, showing firmly tannic and with a somewhat heavy wood influence but still maintaining overall good balance between still firm tannins and spicy wood that allows the fruits to sow nicely. On the nose and palate currants, wild berries and mint notes, those lingering nicely. Best 2009?2012. NIS 120. Score 90.

Sea Horse

Just making their way to market now.

Sea Horse, Zinfandel, Lennon, 2006: Medium to full-bodied, this blend of 92% Zinfandel and 8% Petite Sirah shows soft and round with gently mouth-coating tannins and reflects its 16 months in American oak with moderate levels of spices and vanilla. On the nose and palate red plums, wild berries and hints of Mediterranean herbs, all lingering nicely. Approachable now but best 2009-2012. NIS 125. Score 89. (Re-tasted 10 Sep 2008)

Sea Horse, Syrah, Antoine, 2006: Garnet towards royal-purple in color, medium to full-bodied, with near-sweet tannins and generous pepper from the barriques in which it developed. Opens to show appealing raspberry and cassis fruits on a light herbal and leathery background, leading to a spicy and moderately-long finish. . Drink now?2011. NIS 125. Score 89. (Re-tasted 10 Sep 2008)

P.S. Both wines will be discounted to NIS 100 when bought by the case of 12.

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Yair Margalit – The Wine Professor

Dr. Yair Margalit has been a constant figure of the Israeli wine scene during the last 20 + years.

Yair Margalit – The Wine Professor
Dr. Yair Margalit has been a constant and reassuring figure of the Israeli wine scene during the last 20 + years. He has consistently produced some of Israel’s most well-regarded wines, was the consultant to many new start-up wineries and has also always been involved in wine education, whether lecturing or writing books.

He was born in Israel and studied Chemistry at the Israel Institute of Technology in Haifa. His Masters and Ph.D in physical chemistry focused on Nuclear Magnetic Resonance. He joined the Israel Institute of Biological Research, where he headed the physical chemistry department for five years.

His interest in wine began from the time he was a visiting research professor at The University of California at Davis in the United States in the chemistry and enology departments. He also spent time in the physiology department in the University of Pennsylvania in Philadelphia.

In 1985, Jonathan (Yonatan) Tishbi, a family grower with vineyards in the southern Mount Carmel area, decided to leave the Wine Growers Co-operative (Agudat Hacormim) and form his own winery. Baron Wine Cellars was founded in 1985. It was situated between Binyamina and Zichron Ya’acov. Tishbi invited Yair Margalit to be his first winemaker. In between his professional academic work, Margalit gained his first experience as a winemaker. Baron Cellars, since renamed Tishbi Winery, swiftly gained a name for ‘good value for money’ wines and particularly for fresh white wines.

By this time Yair Margalit had the wine bug. After a few years of home experimental winemaking, he founded Margalit Winery in 1989. In the first vintage they produced a mere 960 bottles! It was not the first of the new wave boutique wineries. That honor goes to Meron Winery from Mitzpe Harashim in the Upper Galilee. But Margalit was the first serious boutique winery with quality and staying power.

The first wine was a Margalit Cabernet Sauvignon 1989, which was launched in 1991 and it quickly gained a following amongst the wine cognoscenti as one of the best red wines in the country, alongside Yarden from the Golan Heights.

From these little beginnings, Margalit wines grew in production, reputation – and price, but they never outgrew the ‘small boutique winery’ category. The wines became sought after and the rareness of the production created even more demand. Yair Margalit would invite prospective customers to the premises at Kfar Bilu in Rehovot on two days a year. He offered them the opportunity to buy wines in advance and at slightly reduced prices. Today the wine lover has any number of wine tastings, launches or boutique wineries to visit on any given day of the year. In those days, the idea was innovative. It was a rare place for wine collectors to meet a winemaker, taste wine and buy wines not readily available elsewhere. It was also an opportunity for ‘those that understood’ to meet & talk with other like minded individuals, with similar passion.

As the interest in wine grew in Israel, wine collectors became divided between the merits of Margalit wines as against Eli Ben Zaken’s Castel wines. There were constant debates as to which was better, and each had their own loyal following. One was considered more “New World”, the other more ”Old World”, but both set the bar high for the many new small wineries founded in the 1990’s.

The wine that Margalit became most famous for, was his Cabernet Sauvignon, but his strictly allocated Special Reserve, a Cabernet Sauvignon with up to 15% Petite Sirah, was also a unique and magnificent wine. Over the years he flirted with white varieties producing a Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. He also produced a Carignan in 1999.

At this time Yair Margalit generously gave his time and expertise to advise and assist other new boutique wineries. In this way he helped fuel the boutique wine revolution. His love of the academic world was never far away and he continued to lecture at the Faculty of Food Technology in Haifa, but this time on wine. He also conducted many wine tasting courses, just at the time the Israeli interest in wine was growing. Many of the new wine lovers were enthused by attending his courses.

Eventually, Yair’s son, Assaf, came into the business. He began by helping his father. After studies at the Hebrew University’s Faculty of Agriculture in Rehovot, he went to gain experience at a winery in California. Today they are a father and son partnership.

Yair Margalit now produces about 21,000 bottles a year at his winery near the town of Hadera, on the Mediterranean coast (midway between Tel Aviv and Haifa.) He has two vineyards. One at Kadita, in the Upper Galilee, from where he receives his Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot and another at Binyamina, where he grows his Cabernet Franc. His finest wine today is ‘Enigma’, a Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. His wines are represented in Israel by Shaked, the importers and distributors, who also own the wine store chain ‘Derech Ha’Yayin’ (The Wine Route.)

When James Suckling of The Wine Spectator visited Israel recently, he gave his highest score, a 92, to the Margalit Enigma 2004, writing: “It is a harmonious Bordeaux-style blend with wonderful concentration of fruit and ripe silky tannins.” Tony Aspler, Canada’s no.1 wine journalist, was also most impressed by Margalit’s wine after tasting wines from more than 20 Israeli wineries.
Margalit’s wines have always been considered amongst the very best Israeli wines at any given time. However whereas most small wineries took early success as a reason to grow and expand the business, Margalit has more or less stayed the same size. He has preferred to remain relatively small, but focused on quality.

Over the years, Yair Margalit has found time to write three unique, academic books on winemaking. The first ‘Winery Technology & Operations’ was published in 1990. This was followed by ‘Concepts in Wine Chemistry’ in 1997 and ‘Concepts in Wine Technology’ in 2004. Each of the books was published by The Wine Appreciation Guild in San Francisco and each is on the wine shelves of the major book stores, whether Barnes and Noble in New York or Borders in London. They are text books eagerly used by budding winemakers, students or especially interested connoisseurs.

However his biggest contribution to Israeli wine may well be the Cellar Master Program at Tel Hai College. This is the first serious academic program for wine professionals in Israel. Organised by Tel Hai College, Yair Margalit has been the Professional & Academic Manager & Co-ordinator since the first year in 2004. Each year the program has been an overwhelming success and over subscribed.
It gives an opportunity for wine professionals and dedicated wine lovers to gain a serious qualification, which is well-regarded by the industry.

In his own quiet, unobtrusive, but professional way, Yair Margalit, has contributed greatly to Israel wine, as both a winemaker and wine educator.

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Rising Star Over Rishon – Lior Laxer

Once, internationally trained winemakers were a rarity in Israel. Today there are numerous young Israelis, who have studied in the world’s premier wine universities and have experience working in famous wineries. They have returned to Israel to benefit the domestic wine industry. Some of these winemakers are giving Israel a new name for quality.

Lior Laxer is one of these new bright lights on the Israel’s wine scene. Without question he is also in one of the most high profile positions as Chief Winemaker of Carmel Winery.

This is no easy job. He has to manage & oversee the winemaking activities in Israel’s two largest wineries: the wine cellars of Rishon Le Zion & Zichron Ya’acov, which together comprise over 40% of Israel’s total harvest. In 2005 Carmel harvested 18,908 tons of grapes and in 2004, 24,498 tons. To put the scale of operations in perspective, Zichron Ya’acov may receive up to 750 tons in one day. This is what a medium sized winery like Dalton or Galil Mountain will receive in the three months of a normal harvest!

He has had to integrate Carmel’s new small, boutique wineries into the winemaking program, utilising some of the new vineyards Carmel has recently planted in quality wine growing areas. Yatir Winery at Tel Arad, acts as Carmel’s quality station in the south, receiving grapes from Ramat Arad. The new Ramat Dalton winery, in the Upper Galilee, receives grapes from vineyards in the Upper Galilee & Golan Heights. In addition there is the Zichron boutique and Micro-Winery, within the Zichron Ya’acov facility, which provides added flexibility and more options for a winemaker in pursuit of quality. Each of these are modern, technologically advanced wineries, equipped to make wine of the highest quality. However in some cases Carmel has the option of using a combination of two wineries. For instance the Sauvignon Blanc from the Ramat Arad vineyard is pressed at Yatir, but the fermentation takes place at Rishon Le Zion.

It is the policy that Carmel’s finest wines will now only come from one of these small, new state of the art wineries. It is a paradox that currently less than 13,000 bottles are made of each Single Vineyard & Appellation wine. These are closer to the quantities of a garagiste, let alone a boutique! It appears that Carmel, the mass market winery of Israel, has learnt, at the top quality level, to make wine from the vineyard like a small scale winery.

Many have commented on the resulting new wines being produced by Carmel. There has been nothing short of a quality driven revolution. The investment in quality with new vineyards – new wineries – new winemakers has definitely had an effect.Those who are close Carmel watchers, will have noticed a discernable change in quality between the wines pre & post 2003, when Laxer joined Carmel.

Lior Laxer was born in Tel Aviv. His parents were from Romania, a country with strong wine traditions. He remembers his father had a bar & wine was freely offered to all guests as a matter of course. Without realizing it, this was his first introduction to the world he would make as his career.

After serving in the Artillery in the Israeli Defence Forces, he returned from the obligatory year abroad – in Lior’s case he toured Central America, USA & Canada – determined to be a lawyer. He studied at Tel Aviv University, graduated, finished his Bar Exams, but only then decided this was not the career for him. He instead followed a small voice and headed off to Burgundy in France, for him a place akin to heaven on earth. It was here he first became attracted to the world of wine.

He began to work at Dixie Restaurant in Tel Aviv. He started as Barman, became Shift Manager and in the end was the Wine Waiter. Dixie was then one of the more serious & professional wine restaurants in Israel. Laxer entered the Pras Yarden (The Yarden Award for Wine Service) competition, finishing in one of the runners up positions in 1987. In 1988, he was the outright winner as the best wine waiter in Israel.

His interest & experience in wine further increased when he became an importer. For a short time he represented Chateau Bel Air & imported their wines to Israel. However this was more for fun than a serious business move.

However the result of all this was that he found the world of wine more attractive than the lawyers office and he decided to learn winemaking. He traveled to Burgundy to study and graduated from CFPPA in Beaune with a Winemaking & Viticulture Degree. As part of his studies, he worked at Domaine Comte Armand in Pommard, the largest Cote d’Or village. There he was introduced to biodynamic viticulture.

He then had valuable experience working with Michel Rolland in his laboratory. Rolland is arguably the most famous & influential winemaking consultant in the world. He followed this by working in Chateau le Bon Pasteur in Pomerol, Bordeaux, which is owned by Rolland.

He then decided to get some New World experience. He moved to Australia and worked for Harman’s Ridge Estate in Margaret River in Western Australia, a contract winery for 18 different growers.

In 2003 he joined Carmel Winery just before the harvest and was appointed Chief Winemaker of Carmel’s Rishon Le Zion Wine Cellars. In 2005, still in his early thirties, he was appointed Chief Winemaker of Carmel Winery responsible for four wineries.

He is assisted by colleagues with many years experience like Zvi Skaist, Chief Winemaker of Zichron Ya’acov and Haim Wachtenchaim, the Winemaker at Rishon Le Zion. To these may be added Canadian born Sam Soroka – the winemaker of the Zichron boutique, Kobi Arens – the winemaker of the winery at Ramat Dalton and Eran Goldwasser of Yatir. Interesting each one of these winemakers has graduated, studied or worked in Australia, the world’s pioneer in the new world technology of winemaking & viticulture.

He is advised by Peter Stern from California. Stern worked for icons Robert Mondavi & Julio & Ernest Gallo in the past and currently works for Herzog Wine Cellars. He was winemaking consultant to the Golan Heights Winery from 1983 to 2003. In 2004 he became Carmel’s consultant.

Lior likes to make elegant wines with refreshing acidity, rather than high alcohol, fruit bombs so popular in the New World (and lately in Israel too). It is particularly important to him that the finished wine will show evidence of the terroir of the vineyard, with minimum interference by the winemaker. Amongst the more inexpensive labels, his objective is to make fruit forward, easy drinking wines, where taste & flavor of the fruit dominate rather than the oak. Those tasting the new 2004 Private Collection reds and the 2005 Vineyards Selected (aka Selected in Israel) wines will undoubtedly notice a positive change in style.

He admires wineries like Penfold’s, which he sets as his model. He notes they are able to produce wines in enormous quantities, while still producing high quality wines at every price point – from The Grange to regular supermarket wines. His favorite wine region though, is Burgundy, and part of him would one day like to settle there to make high quality Pinot Noir’s for some small winery.

His current task is taking up all his time & energy for now. His objective is to ensure that the immense progress Carmel has made, continues. In truth, the main compliment lies in the wines and his Single Vineyards & Appellation wines have had rave reviews not received by Carmel since the Carmel Special Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon’s of 1976 & 1979. Yasher Koach!

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Golan Heights The Leader in Quality & Innovation

The Golan Heights Winery has led the way on the Israeli wine scene for 25 years. In that time they have had three managing directors: Shimshon Welner, Segev Yerovam & Shalom Blayer; Six chief winemakers: Philip Steinschriber, Mike Lake, Kenneth Greene, Andrew Star, Jim Klein & Victor Schoenfeld and two winemaking consultants: Peter Stern & Zelma Long. Each and every one of them has played a part in an extraordinary success story.

For their first 15 years, the Golan Heights Winery was unarguably the outstanding winery in Israel with the best kept vineyards, the most technologically advanced winery and the finest viticulturists & winemakers in Israel. Most of the international prizes won by Israeli wines were produced by the Golan Heights Winery.

However, in the last few years a number of new circumstances have arisen to challenge their supremacy.

1. Other wineries have advanced. Wineries such as Castel & Margalit are well established and have many followers; larger wineries such as Carmel and Barkan have improved quality no end and new wineries such as Flam, Yatir & many others, are now making international class wines. Many more wineries are sharing in the international prizes awarded to Israeli wineries. In short, the gap is closing and the competition is greater.
2. The Golan Heights Winery continues to introduce new varieties and new wines as though this was a competition in itself. It is rare for a similar sized winery to deal with so many wines, so many different wine styles and so many different grape varieties. One would think this could affect quality & focus.
3. Finally, the elitist days of the Golan are over. They have grown to become a very big winery harvesting 7,000 tonnes of grapes in 2004, (on the Golan Heights & in the Upper Galilee combined). They now have had to enter the murky world of the mass market, discounting & advertising which previously they had the luxury of never doing. Again there is a danger that sales become more important than quality witness the last years of Mondavi as an independent winery.

However, though these are definite threats, Golan Heights is still number one. If a collector wanted to buy a wine to last 10-15 years, he would still be well advised to choose a Yarden, or even in some cases, a Gamla wine, above almost every other Israeli winery. The winery is still innovating & dragging the rest of the industry in its wake and though no longer alone, it is still winning the majority of medals awarded to Israel.

Managing Director

There have been three Managing Directors. Each has made his mark in the development of the winery and maintained the winery’s position as the pioneers of the Israel wine industry. Shimshon Welner was the entrepreneur who created the winery like a hi-tec start up, bruising the complacent wineries, and particularly Carmel. Israel was really in the dark ages as far as wine was concerned. Segev Yerovam turned the winery into the elite in terms of wine quality, wine marketing, presentation & PR activities. In everything, Golan shone far ahead of its competitors. Shalom Blayer harnessed the growth into a large winery managing to compete in the mass market whilst maintaining the quality. Under all three, the Golan Heights Winery has remained the best and the most innovative winery in the country.

Shimshon Welner (1983 1988) was the one to shake up the wine establishment by creating the Golan Heights Winery.

He was astute enough to go to California to import expertise, rather than relying on the existing knowledge in Israel. He appointed Peter Stern, who was involved in all the winemaking and some of the marketing decisions from the beginning.
Winemakers appointed were all UC Davis graduates. The first time internationally trained winemakers were employed by a winery.
The very successful oil lamp logo, with colored mosaic tile inside, was chosen at this time as was the brand name Yarden. It has never had to be changed or adapted, being both immediately successful & long lasting.
The winery introduced Merlot, Chardonnay & White/ Johannisberg Riesling to Israel.
Welner was presented with the first major international award for an Israeli wine: In 1987 winning a gold medal & the Winiarski Trophy for the Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon 1984 at the International Wine & Spirit Competition in London . This really put Israel on the international wine map. The next year’s Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon 1985 won no fewer than three major international prizes.
He was also responsible for marketing Yarden wines in what was then a very innovative way. He priced the wines much higher than consumers were used to and initially supplied only to exclusive venues such as the Hilton Tel Aviv and King David Hotel in Jerusalem. A large percentage of production was exported to America & England. This approach added value to the product & raised the profile of the wines.
He closed a deal with Shaked Brothers to be distributors in Israel an inspired decision as they also played a big part in the winery’s development.
During this time Americans, in particular, began to refer to Yarden and Gamla as Israel’s first world class wines.

Segev Yerovam (1988 1998) transformed the winery from a one man band into a medium sized operation solely dedicated to quality and perception of quality. The winery was managed with the efficiency of a military campaign but with the atmosphere of a family. Pursuit of quality was the objective.

Yerovam built the visitors center to be outstandingly the best in the country with tours both informative & interesting.
He started the country’s first wine school a little before its time. It did not last, but the winery took responsibility for advancing wine culture in Israel.
Yerovam organized a series of stylish, memorable functions such as the night harvest visits for customers & journalists, who were flown up to the Golan; the symposium for which the star guest was Robert Mondavi and finally he dreamed up and organized the first culinary & gourmet festival Golan Vintage,which was attended by famous chefs & wine personalities. The standard of winery PR events today, owes much to the high standards set then by the Golan Heights Winery.
During his time, the Golan Heights Winery became the first winery in the world to win the Grand Prix d’Honneur at Vinexpo three years in a row. This was achieved with Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon 1985, Yarden Merlot 1988 and Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon 1989 awarded in 1989, 1991 & 1993 respectively.
Sales were mainly to restaurants, hotels, wine stores & only a little to supermarkets.
Weather stations were put in the vineyards feeding up to date information to the winery. Viticulturally, the Golan Heights Winery was far ahead from its competitors. The first winery to give importance to the vineyard, that today is taken for granted.
The winery grew installing the very best technology available. An exaggerated number of smaller sized tanks gave the winemaker the ability to separate varieties, vineyards and even different parts of the same vineyard. The attention to detail and total control from the vineyard to bottle was a lesson to all other wineries in Israel.
Grape varieties like Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Sangiovese, Gewurztraminer & Muscat Canelli were planted for the first time.
Yerovam created Yarden Katzrin Israel’s first super de luxe wine, produced only in special years. The first vintage was 1990.
He initiated the program for Israel’s first bottle fermented sparkling wine. In Golan style, the assistant winemaker was sent to work & learn in the champagne region & returned to produce a high quality product strictly produced by the champagne method. In 1996 the Yarden Blanc de Blancs won the Trophy at the IWSC in London.

Shalom Blayer (1998 until 8/2008) developed the winery still further. Under Blayer’s stewardship, the Golan Heights Winery became a large winery.

Yarden Mount Hermon Red became the country’s number one selling brand, without any advertising.
Blayer founded a wholly owned subsidiary in New York, Yarden Inc., to import and market Golan’s wines and soon became the most successful Israeli winery in America.
He cancelled agreements with the Israeli distributors and opened his own distribution system in Israel. For the first time the winery was in total control of its distribution and sold to every market sector including supermarkets.
He also developed the winery’s interests in the Upper Galilee by opening Galil Mountain Winery, which the Golan Heights Winery own 75% in a joint venture with Kibbutz Yiron.
His marketing team were responsible for the powerful black and white advertising campaign referring to the Golan Heights Winery as the land of wine, which was very impressive.
During his tenure, Yarden was first invited by the Wine Spectator to participate in the New York Wine Experience in 1999 open to literally the finest wineries in the world. The winery has been invited back on each subsequent occasion.
The first quality Syrah & Pinot Noir were launched in Israel under the Yarden label.
HeightsWine made from grapes frozen at the winery, in imitation of ice wine, was produced and became an instant gold medal winner.
The launch of their first single vineyard wines, an organically grown Chardonnay, a nouveau style wine made with Gamay using carbonic maceration, and a dessert wine made from grapes treatedwith botrytis at the winery, were all innovations in the last 2 years!

Golan Heights Winery sells wines under three labels. The premier label is Yarden. The second label, Gamla represents the best value in relation to quality and the Golan label is mainly for supermarkets. Yarden Katzrin is arguably Israel’s finest de luxe & most expensive wine. Yarden Mount Hermon Red is still Israel’s largest selling brand.

The many wines produced by the winery fall into four categories:

a. Genuine world class wines
b. International standard wines, like Gamla Cabernet Sauvignon
c. Wines which are neither of the above, but are still pioneering wines in Israel because they have introduced a new variety or wine style, for example Yarden Gewurztraminer or Gamla Sangiovese.
d. Others which make up the portfolio from the Sauvignon Blancs to the Golan wines.

The genuine world class wines are under the Yarden label. These wines continue to win medals, trophies and prizes that any world class winery would be extremely proud of. The main winners, year after year, are:

Yarden Blanc de Blancs – Sparkling Wine
Yarden Katzrin Chardonnay
Yarden Chardonnay
Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon
Yarden Merlot
Yarden HeightsWine – Dessert Wine.

Add these to Yarden Katzrin, a Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot & Cabernet Franc blend produced only in 1990, 1993, 1996 and 2000, and the new single vineyard Yarden El Rom Cabernet Sauvignon and Yarden Ortal Merlot and they have a formidable range.

Credit must go to current winemaker, Victor Schoenfeld probably Israel’s outstanding winemaker, for maintaining the standards, and for continuing to innovate. The number of wines produced & the size of winery do not affect his ability to produce so many different award winning wines. How many wineries in the world can claim to produce sparkling, white, red and dessert wines with such a record of proven success.

The new managing director from September 2008 is Anat Levi Rushansky.

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Yatir Forest 2005

Since Robert Parker, the world’s most famous wine critic, gave the Yatir Forest 2003 93 points, Yatir Winery has turned into one of the hottest of the new boutique wineries in Israel. This was further reinforced when the Wine Spectator, the world’s leading wine magazine, awarded the Yatir Forest 2005 92 points. The only thing in common with the two tastings of Israeli wines was that Yatir Forest was the number one wine in both tastings! So the launch of the latest Yatir Forest was eagerly awaited. One Israeli magazine even referred to it as ‘Israel’s first cult wine!’

Yatir Forest is the de-luxe, prestige wine of Yatir Winery, which is situated at Tel Arad in the north east Negev desert. The vineyards lie within Yatir Forest, hence the name of the wine. This is Israel’s largest planted forest situated at up to 900 meters above sea level, in the southern Judean Hills. Yatir Forest the wine is usually a blend designed to reflect the unique terroir of the region. The mix of grape varieties changes every year, but it is always based on Cabernet Sauvignon.

The Yatir Forest 2005 is made from 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Petit Verdot and 10% Merlot. It was aged in small, French oak barrels, 1/3rd of them new, for 14 months. The wine has a deep red almost black color,and a rich, velvetty Cabernet nose with a hint of Mediterranean herbs in the background.

Yatir Winery was built in 2000 and first launched in 2004. It is owned by Carmel Winery but managed independently. The winemaker is Eran Goldwasser, a young Israeli who graduated from Adelaide University and worked for a Southcorp winery in Australia, before returning to israel to open Yatir.

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Kosher Wine

Not all wines produced in Israel are automatically kosher. In fact there are more wineries producing non kosher wine in Israel. However more than 90% of the Israeli wine produced is kosher. This is because, without exception, the largest wineries only produce kosher wines.

Adhering to the Jewish Dietary Laws (kashrut) is essential for all orthodox Jews. The word kosher means pure. Kosher wine laws were established in ancient times, so an observant Jew could avoid drinking Yayin Nesech a wine used by non-Jews to make libations for idol worship and Stam Yayin ordinary wine made by and for non-Jews. Customs learnt over a number of years continue, making these the oldest of all wine laws.

At The Winery
For wine to be certified as kosher, the following regulations need to be followed at the winery.

1. Only religious Jews may handle the product and touch the winemaking equipment from the time the grapes arrive at the winery. The definition of a religious Jew for this purpose is one who is Shomer Shabbat who observes the Sabbath. Therefore a Jewish winemaker who is not orthodox is not allowed to draw samples from the barrels. It can be frustrating for a hands-on winemaker, but though it is a nuisance, it does not affect quality.

2. Only kosher items or substances may be used in the process. Yeasts, fining & cleaning materials have to be certified as kosher and must not be derived from animal by-products. Examples of fining agents not permitted, include gelatin (animal derivative), casein (diary derivative) and isinglass (because it comes from a non kosher fish.)
Kosher wine is perfectly suitable for vegetarians and if egg white is not used for fining, also for vegans,

In The Vineyard
Kosher wines produced in France, Italy & California, only have to observe these two criteria. In Israel Eretz Ha Kodesh (The Holy Land), kosher wine producers also have to observe the following agricultural laws which date back to the agrarian society in Biblical times:

a. Orlah . For the first three years, fruit from the vine may not be used for winemaking. The flower buds are removed to prevent fruit formation. In the fourth year the vine can bear fruity and a winemaker is permitted to use the grapes.
Interestingly most wine growers will anyway choose not to use fruit for the first few years for quality reasons.

b. Kilai HaKerem Cross breeding. Growing other fruits between the vines is prohibited. In southern Europe, a domestic winery may train its vines high, and grow its vegetables underneath. This would be prohibited, but anyone interested in quality has abandoned this practice anyway.

c. Shmittah Sabbatical Year. There is a law recorded in the Bible which states that every seventh year, the fields should be left fallow and allowed to rest. However because of economic realities, a special dispensation is given to relieve farmers of this requirement and the land is symbolically sold to a non Jew for the duration of the seventh year. The idea of resting the land or introducing a nitrogen cycle is a common practice in todays agriculture.

d. Terumot & Maaserot. This is a symbolic ceremony when over one percent of the production is poured away in remembrance of the ten per cent tithe once paid to the Temple in Jerusalem.

Categories of Kosher Wine

There are only three basic categories of kosher wine which will appear on a back label:
Kosher Permissible for Jews who observe the Jewish Dietary Laws.

Kosher for Passover Wine that has not come into contact with bread, grain or products made with leavened dough. Most kosher wines are also Kosher for Passover.

Kosher le Mehadrin Wine for which the rules of kashrut have been stringently approved.

So far it may be seen, there are rules full of ritual & tradition. Notice though, there are no regulations affecting the quality of the wine and standard winemaking procedures are followed in the harvesting, fermentation, maturation, blending and bottling.

The issue of Mevushal Wine is more controversial.

Yayin Mevushal

Mevushal wines must be flash pasteurized to 175 degrees fahrenheit or 80 degrees centigrade. The requirement relates to wine handling and service, but is only relevant to orthodox Jews and is usually only required in the context of kosher catering. If mevushal, a non-observant waiter is permitted to serve the wine to a strictly religious person.
Usually it is the lesser expensive wines used in kosher banqueting that may be mevushal, but without doubt, the best quality Israeli kosher wines are those which are not mevushal.

Israeli wine represents for the religious Jew the largest range and best quality kosher wines in the world. Many of Israels finest prestige wines just happen also to be kosher.

For the rest of the world, Israeli wines represent high quality, from an exotic region in the Eastern Mediterranean, and it is of secondary importance if the wine is kosher or not. The objective for wineries producing kosher wines remains to make the best possible wines. that just happen also to be kosher!
Kiddush Wines

The category that has done untold damage to the image of kosher wines are the infamous Kiddush or Sacramental wines. They are often used by Jewish communities or families to make kiddush the blessing over wine on Friday night. The custom grew because a sweet wine lasted from week to week and the children also liked it. Also Christian communities seeking wine from The Holy Land will also use similar wines as Altar or Communion wines

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The World of Israeli Wines

However one area of great interest and a surprise to those who don’t know about it is the thriving wine industry, which is now producing wines of real interest to connoisseurs and wine lovers alike

Israel is situated in the Eastern Mediterranean or Near East an area, which in Bible times, was the France of today, leading the world’s wine culture. If the art of winegrowing began somewhere in between the Black & Caspian Seas and worked its way south, the Levant (including Ancient Israel) must have been one of the first wine producing regions (long before the Greeks & Romans got into the act.)

Today it may be said that Israel is a New World wine country from one of the oldest wine producing regions in the world.

The modern Israeli wine industry was founded in the 1880’s by a Rothschild who was no less than a part owner of Chateau Lafite in Bordeaux! Not surprisingly therefore, the initial influence was French. The quality revolution began in the 1980s with the import of expertise from California and today Israel’s young winemakers study all over the world with perhaps Australia taking over from California as the main influencing country.

Israel is already famous for its advanced technology & innovative agriculture. Both these qualities come together in Israel’s vineyards. Whether it is growing vineyards in the desert, the latest drip feed irrigation or having meteorological stations in the vineyards, Israel is a leader in viticulture. Also like many long thin countries (such as Chile & Italy), Israel has a wide range of different micro-climates from the snow covered Mount Hermon in the north to the Negev desert in the south.

As far as wineries concerned, there are over 150! Amongst these are ten wineries producing over 500,000 bottles a year and a further ten producing close to 100,000 bottles a year or more. Many of the rest are small boutique wineries and garagistes spread throughout the country.

Today it is no longer a surprise that one Israeli winery is invited to the New York Wine Experience, and another to the Decanter Fine Wine Show. These are by invitation only, to the finest wineries in the world. Yet another winery finds itself in the list of the Hundred Most Exciting Wines in the World. Other wineries regularly win gold medals in international competitions.

Israeli wine has arrived. It is exotic, high quality but largely unknown to many. This website will introduce you to the World of Israeli Wines.

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New Private Collection from Carmel

Carmel have launched a new look for their Private Collection label. The new label is in a stylish black and white with a new, easy to read logo.
The first wine released with the new look is the Private Collection Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2007. Made from 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 50% Merlot from the Galilee region, the wine was aged for 8 months in a combination of French and American oak barrels. One big difference from the past is that all the new Private Collection wines are not mevushal or flash pasteurised. This first wine represents the ongoing quality revolution by Carmel, the historic winery of Israel, which was first revealed with their flagship wine Carmel Limited Edition, Single Vineyard wines like Kayoumi and Appellation, a series of regional wines. It has now filtered down to wines geared to the quality mass market.
Private Collection was first launched as Carmel’s number one label in 1988. Today it features more in the supermarkets but has gained a name for representing quality, reliability and excellent value.

Another representative of the new Private Collection is a sparkling wine called Private Collection Brut NV, made for the first time and only recently released. This wine is made from 50% Colombard, 40% Chardonnay and 10% Viognier, produced mainly from the Shomron Wine Region. Five per cent of the Chardonnay was fermented in French oak barrels and the wine was made by the Charmat or Cuve Close process. The label for this wine is a striking black but it also shows off the new Private Collection logo.

These Private Collection wines are regarded as representing a great leap in quality by many critics and a break with the past. Wine lovers are eagerly awaiting the release of the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot and the 2008 whites, including Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay.

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Biblical Heritage

The art of winemaking is thought to have begun somewhere in the triangle between the Black Sea, the Caspian Sea and the Sea of Galilee. From there the vine travelled south through Phoenicia and Canaan to Egypt, which became the first great wine culture. The Egyptians particularly prized the wine of Canaan. So Canaan must have been one of the earliest countries to make wine ? and this was over 2,000 years before the vine reached Europe.

The Israelites? interest in winegrowing is a continual theme throughout the Bible and Talmud. Wine was seen as a symbol of happiness and out of all the books of the Bible, only the Book of Jonah contains no reference to it.
Of the seven species with which Eretz Israel was blessed, the vine was first amongst the fruits (Deut. 8:8).

The first mention of wine in the Bible is Noah, who built the ark to prepare for the flood. After the water subsided, he planted a vineyard and then got drunk on the resulting wine. (Genesis 9:20-21).

When in the Book of Numbers, Moses sent the spies to scout out the ?Promised Land?, they returned with a bunch of grapes, so large that it had to be carried on a pole, to illustrate that ?this was a land flowing with milk and honey?. This image has been used today as the logo of both Carmel Winery and the Israel Government Tourist Office.

Isaiah?s song about vineyards (Isa. 5) gives a detailed account of planting a vineyard through to the harvesting of its grapes. He likens God to an owner of a vineyard and Israel to the vineyard. Ezekiel (17:1-10; 19:10-14) also regards the vine as symbolizing the people of Israel and all the prophets use vines as a symbol of the happy state. The prophet Michah?s vision of peace on earth was ?? every man shall sit under his vine and fig tree and none shall make him afraid.?

Sixteen times the Bible mentions corn, wine and oil as representing the principle produce of the country, the base of the economy and chief blessing of the soil (Deut. 7:13).

There is no quality wine producing country in the present day that can boast such a rich history of wine production and wine culture as Israel. Almost everywhere, archeological finds have been unearthed in abundance. Coins, amphorae, wine presses, wine goblets all bear witness to a wine history, which continued unbroken until the Moslem conquest in 636 C.E.

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Ronnie James z?l

Ronnie James is no longer with us. He passed away on the night that Israwinexpo closed . The euphoria of winding down after a well-run exhibition, attended by many famous wine personalities, was shattered by hearing the news. There remains a sadness and hollowness throughout the whole industry.
Ronnie was a pioneer, but remained the same lovable, unspoilt character, not changed one iota by success. Thirty years as a grower, passionate about his vineyards, he supplied fruit to Carmel for years. Then in 1993 he became the first grower to open a boutique winery blazing a trail that was to be followed by many growers. He had faith in his vision and overcame many obstacles, but he succeeded in making this dream come true.
His wines had many successes. In one tasting conducted by Jancis Robinson MW a few years ago, his Ilan Misty Hills was judged Israel?s best wine. Fast forward to the first tasting by the Wine Advocate, only two months ago, and his desert wine , Or, received 92 points. This was worldwide recognition, up there with the very best Israeli wines.
His winery was the first kibbutz winery and he was the first to concentrate his winemaking efforts on finding an Israeli terroir. In his final years , after the cruel illness hit, he managed to organize the future of the winery, through the distribution with Shaked and recruiting a new young winemaker, Eran Pick. Due to his care and professionalism, the winery harvested nearly 100 tons in 2007 and is well placed for continued growth and development.
I knew Ronnie as a warm person, with an infectious sense of humor and an uncontrollable laugh. He was an enthusiastic supporter of the Handcrafted Wines of Israel concept while it lasted. He was always kind, helpful and happy to talk about wine and share his passion with fellow wine lovers. My efforts to speak Hebrew and not so occasional use of the wrong word at the wrong time, used to give him endless amusement.
He was always a man of the soil. A ?salt of the earth? person, who became the ultimate wine man. He was loved by all who came into contact with him. The number of people currently working in the wine trade, who passed through and became touched by his passion and learnt from him, is true testimony to his legacy. It is reassuring that one of his sons continues his work in his beloved vineyards. As for Ronnie ? we love you and will miss you. Thank you for touching our lives and for enriching our wine industry.

Adam Montefiore